Installing heads on 318

furyfever

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I had some help last fall removing heads off my 69 Polara 318. It was running very rough and had lots of loss of power. Anyways, #1 cylinder was very low on compression. Upon removal of pass. side head, one of #1 valves was visibly burnt. Sent both heads out to local machine shop and had them reworked. The guy that helped me diagnose (he did leak down test) and remove heads is no longer available to help me install them. Machine shop provided to me new head gaskets. Is it a big deal to install heads? I’ve removed and replaced an intake by myself before on a 70 Fury 318 (the crossover was plugged up with carbon/choke wouldn’t work) but I’ve never gotten any deeper into an engine. While I’d feel better with someone that’s experienced by my side, I’m considering doing it myself now. Is there certain things I should know before doing this on my own? I have cleaned the carbon off the top of all 8 pistons and the top of block up surrounding pistons (mating surfaces) with a wire wheel. Sprayed light oil over everything for over the winter. A friend said tighten center bolts first, other than that, I know nothing about it. I’ve fixed a lot of easy and tough problems over the years, installed lots of new parts on many of my old cars, done a lot of troubleshooting etc. I’m very handy that way but am not confident on this one. I wish I would have marked which side the heads came off. Basic knowledge to anyone that’s worked on engines before I’m sure…Are the heads marked anywhere (R-pass. and L-driver)? Thanks in advance…any tips would be much appreciated. Bob

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Davea Lux

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You should start by downloading the FSM. There is a free download available at www.mymopar.com, you will find the manuals in the Tools/Reference section. The factory head gaskets were a metal shim that needed to have sealant applied. Most modern replacement gaskets are self sealing and should never have sealant applied. Take some Brake-Kleen and remove all the oil from the gasket mating surfaces, oil residue will prevent the gasket from sealing properly. Dave

318 head bolt sequence.gif
 

CBODY67

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You'll definitely need a good torque wrench. Craftsman is a good start. Torque the head bolts in three sets, starting at the low end and end up with the designated torque spec. Doing the circular pattern, too. Same circular pattern orientation on the intake manifold bolts, too.

The cyl heads are the same, side to side. BUT one might have some sensors that the other one does not, if that matters.

Take everything a step at a time, until you're done. For good measure, pour some oil over the cam and valvetrain before you put the intake back on. You can use cam assy lube on the ends of the pushrods and rocker arms, too. Read the FSM, as needed.

Keep us posted on your progress, please.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

Big_John

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Heads exchange side to side, but you do have to be sure left head has the threaded holes for the alternator. Both usually do, but check to be safe.

Obviously use a torque wrench and believe it or not, the Harbor Fright torque wrenches are about as good as anything on the market these days. As Dave said, use the pattern to tighten and I always start by snugging by hand then getting the torque wrench out and go through the sequence of tightening at about 1/3 the torque. Go through again at 2/3 the torque and follow up at full value.
 

oldkimmer

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I had some help last fall removing heads off my 69 Polara 318. It was running very rough and had lots of loss of power. Anyways, #1 cylinder was very low on compression. Upon removal of pass. side head, one of #1 valves was visibly burnt. Sent both heads out to local machine shop and had them reworked. The guy that helped me diagnose (he did leak down test) and remove heads is no longer available to help me install them. Machine shop provided to me new head gaskets. Is it a big deal to install heads? I’ve removed and replaced an intake by myself before on a 70 Fury 318 (the crossover was plugged up with carbon/choke wouldn’t work) but I’ve never gotten any deeper into an engine. While I’d feel better with someone that’s experienced by my side, I’m considering doing it myself now. Is there certain things I should know before doing this on my own? I have cleaned the carbon off the top of all 8 pistons and the top of block up surrounding pistons (mating surfaces) with a wire wheel. Sprayed light oil over everything for over the winter. A friend said tighten center bolts first, other than that, I know nothing about it. I’ve fixed a lot of easy and tough problems over the years, installed lots of new parts on many of my old cars, done a lot of troubleshooting etc. I’m very handy that way but am not confident on this one. I wish I would have marked which side the heads came off. Basic knowledge to anyone that’s worked on engines before I’m sure…Are the heads marked anywhere (R-pass. and L-driver)? Thanks in advance…any tips would be much appreciated. Bob

View attachment 521015

View attachment 521016
Number one is the drivers side front. When your fitting the head gaskets one will be right side up and the other will be upside down. That’s because the only make 1 gasket to do both sides. Kim
 

furyfever

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Ok guys, Finally getting around to do this on my own. I tried getting into FSM but not working. I spent a couple hours cleaning surfaces up with brake cleaner/clean white sock. Thought I’d eventually see sock stop getting so black but it doesn’t. Looks like it’ll get black forever no matter how much I clean. I took one head gasket out of packaging and it looks just like the old ones. I guess they’re interchangeable side to side even though there’s blue writing on one side. Nothing says this side up so I guess it doesn’t matter? Apparently not all the holes in block go through into heads…gasket blocks many off but like I say, new gaskets match up with old so it’s got to be the way it is. Heads look interchangeable. Not sure but the side that has alternator has two holes…either way. One of the guys post mentioned sensors…one side might have a sensor the other might not? Not sure what Im looking for there. I guess Im just afraid of this because I haven’t done it before. Someone posted bolt tightening sequence. If I follow that should I be good? I have a decent torque wrench. Wish I could open FSM…Is there something important in there? Packaging reads No sealant necessary on these gaskets so that’s a relief. Thank you
 

Davea Lux

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Ok guys, Finally getting around to do this on my own. I tried getting into FSM but not working. I spent a couple hours cleaning surfaces up with brake cleaner/clean white sock. Thought I’d eventually see sock stop getting so black but it doesn’t. Looks like it’ll get black forever no matter how much I clean. I took one head gasket out of packaging and it looks just like the old ones. I guess they’re interchangeable side to side even though there’s blue writing on one side. Nothing says this side up so I guess it doesn’t matter? Apparently not all the holes in block go through into heads…gasket blocks many off but like I say, new gaskets match up with old so it’s got to be the way it is. Heads look interchangeable. Not sure but the side that has alternator has two holes…either way. One of the guys post mentioned sensors…one side might have a sensor the other might not? Not sure what Im looking for there. I guess Im just afraid of this because I haven’t done it before. Someone posted bolt tightening sequence. If I follow that should I be good? I have a decent torque wrench. Wish I could open FSM…Is there something important in there? Packaging reads No sealant necessary on these gaskets so that’s a relief. Thank you
FSM is useful for a lot of things. If you used Firefox to download the FSM, you may need to convert the Firefox file to a PDF so that Windows can see it. You will need to download the Adobe reader that is applicable to your version of windows. If you Google "Convert Firefox file to PDF", the procedure is easy and straightforward.

Dave
 

Ripinator

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Ok guys, Finally getting around to do this on my own. I tried getting into FSM but not working. I spent a couple hours cleaning surfaces up with brake cleaner/clean white sock. Thought I’d eventually see sock stop getting so black but it doesn’t. Looks like it’ll get black forever no matter how much I clean. I took one head gasket out of packaging and it looks just like the old ones. I guess they’re interchangeable side to side even though there’s blue writing on one side. Nothing says this side up so I guess it doesn’t matter? Apparently not all the holes in block go through into heads…gasket blocks many off but like I say, new gaskets match up with old so it’s got to be the way it is. Heads look interchangeable. Not sure but the side that has alternator has two holes…either way. One of the guys post mentioned sensors…one side might have a sensor the other might not? Not sure what Im looking for there. I guess Im just afraid of this because I haven’t done it before. Someone posted bolt tightening sequence. If I follow that should I be good? I have a decent torque wrench. Wish I could open FSM…Is there something important in there? Packaging reads No sealant necessary on these gaskets so that’s a relief. Thank you

While yer at it, get rid of that Fram filter. This is the one you need: More Information for WIX 51515
 

furyfever

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While yer at it, get rid of that Fram filter. This is the one you need: More Information for WIX 51515
Yeah, I been seeing a load of info. everywhere saying Fram Filters are junk. Wix 51515 got it…

I just got done out there. Was bound and determined to do it. Boy am I shot now.Wouldn’t want to do that for a living! I cleaned all mating surfaces again with clean rag/brake cleaner. Was hard not to leave lint with all the sharp edges so I vacuumed surface after was careful not to suck coolant or oil out of holes. That was a pain. Tedious…I set 2) 3.5 ft. 2x4’s from top of firewall to top of hood jambs and set heads on them…climbed in engine compartment…then I was able to grab/set them in place. Went well. Torquing the 30 ft lbs was easy…60 was doable but I gave it all I had to get to 95. Back/knees hurtin’ now but feel good about getting heads bolted in place. Been waiting for help for months. The heck with it, did it myself. One guy posted…one head gasket goes upside down. I understand what he means now. One side had blue stripes up…other side was just metallic looking/color up. Couldn’t screw it up, the pins take out the guess work. Thank God they’re there for placement. I appreciate everyone’s help. Will post progress.

Bob

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furyfever

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Well, the saga here continues. I’ve installed the heads as I wrote in last post. Torqued in proper sequence at 30, 60 and final was 95 ft. lbs. Now I hear I should have put thread sealant on the bolts that go in the through holes (to water jacket). Not sure which ones they are so I guess I’ll just have to do them all which I have been told is ok. Been told I can still do it…just need to remove and repeat torque process without need to replace head gaskets. Is that true? Several guys I’ve talked to have indicated that this should be fine. So, I went to buy some thread sealant (NAPA) and the guy said I should replace all the bolts because they’ve been stretched but…He looked them up and couldn’t find any available. What do y’all think?
 

Xenon

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Don't need thread sealant on head bolts..
Head gaskets are NOT reusable...
Head bolts ARE re-usable and don't need to be replaced for your engine..

.
 

Big_John

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Well, the saga here continues. I’ve installed the heads as I wrote in last post. Torqued in proper sequence at 30, 60 and final was 95 ft. lbs. Now I hear I should have put thread sealant on the bolts that go in the through holes (to water jacket). Not sure which ones they are so I guess I’ll just have to do them all which I have been told is ok. Been told I can still do it…just need to remove and repeat torque process without need to replace head gaskets. Is that true? Several guys I’ve talked to have indicated that this should be fine. So, I went to buy some thread sealant (NAPA) and the guy said I should replace all the bolts because they’ve been stretched but…He looked them up and couldn’t find any available. What do y’all think?

Don't need thread sealant on head bolts..
Head gaskets are NOT reusable...
Head bolts ARE re-usable and don't need to be replaced for your engine..

.
What Xenon says is right.

Don't take it apart, the bolts don't go into the water jacket, so no sealant.... and once you unbolt the head, the gasket is done.

With a lot of the newer engines, there are head bolts that have to be replaced every time. That's not the case with the old Mopar stuff...

You're done... Wait for it to stop snowing and go out and have some fun.
 

furyfever

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Well…that’s really good news. I was dreading doing that again. Old-timer Mopar mechanic/ car-cruise friend I called on talked me into new cam/lifters/double roller timing chain/gears and water pump. He was adamant about doing this with 85k miles on car…while I have it opened up. So, I’ve got quite a ways to go yet. Good news: he’s coming over to help me with all of it soon. I’ll keep you all posted. Thanks again guys.
 
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