installing new motor mount on 383

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. 67 ragtop

    67 ragtop New Member

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    I am installing a new left side motor mount on my Fury, after I installed it onto the engine it will not drop back into the frame. The mount is straddling the bracket but the pin will not slide into the hole. t is about an eighth of an inch off to the rear of the hole. The front side of the pin is even with the hole. I don't have enough room to swing my
    mini sledge where is a good place to try to pry the engine forward. I did see a video on you tube where they just started it and let it fall in on its own. lol
     
  2. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Try taking the mount bolts on the engine block part way out, that should give you enough free play to install the pin.

    Dave
     
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  3. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    Try loosening the rear trans mount bolts and give the trans a shove or kick to the side. That might pull it just enough to do the job.
     
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  4. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    Did you leave the other side bolted in? Sometimes you have to take both loose to get it centered and dropped in again.
     
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  5. swisherred

    swisherred Senior Member

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    Make sure its seating correctly too. I bought new mounts and the dimple wouldn't line up...keeping the mount kicked at an angle.
     
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  6. 67 ragtop

    67 ragtop New Member

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    Thanks for all of the reply's I will try all of the Ideas until one works. The mount does look like it is angled but the dimple lined up on the mount when I torqued the stud down onto the mount.
     
  7. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    I've changed several motor mounts before wising up and putting a stout chain on the driver side to secure the engine down to the K frame in addition to the new rubber. See if you can bounce the engine up and down a fraction of an inch using a pry bar, judiciously applied. You might even take a block of HARD hardwood (oak) and jack the engine up a fraction of an inch from the harmonic balancer. It looks odd, discussing bouncing a quarter ton + of iron to get it to settle into a motor mount, but that is about what it takes. A really big flat head screwdriver might avail here. See if you can raise the motr a wee bit by prying between the K-frame and the edge of the oil pan or such.
     
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  8. 67 ragtop

    67 ragtop New Member

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    I got it to go down but now I can't get the bolt in. It feels like it is trying to cross thread. I can put a 5/16 inch allen wrench all the way through the holes and the kept nut but the bolt won't start. We (my brother and I) played with it for about 2 hrs before his wife and my girl friend said it was time to go to dinner, I am 68 he is 71. We used a Fubar (huge prybar) to and jack to get it to settle. Tomorrow is another day and we were getting pissed.
     
  9. furious70

    furious70 Well-Known Member

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    ya, sometimes it sucks like that. Usually means you need to take more things loose to allow it to settle in. Does the bolt have a short unthreaded bit at the end to allow you to get it into the hole without having to start threading?
     
  10. 67 ragtop

    67 ragtop New Member

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    No the bolts threads start right at the end. I have thought about grinding a short section of thread off.
     
  11. oldkimmer

    oldkimmer New Member

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    Or grind it to a bit of a point. U may have to loosen the pass side to raise and lower the motor some. It may need to go sideways a hair. Kim
     
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  12. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    If the bolt is binding or trying to cross thread, you don't have it lined up "just right." do you have a die to chase the threads on the bolt a bit if needs be? GET ONE Just In Case.

    I suggest tapping brackets, maybe taper grinding the end of the bolt a little to ease its starting into a nut or other threaded fastener, a little more bouncing the engine a little bit and such until you get that bolt properly started. Lubricate the threads too. I like white lithium bearing grease for this job. Once the bolt is threded in properly, you can wipe excess grease off to reduce dust sticking to the stuff.

    Another trick I use when getting bolts to start in the motor mount is to use a strong pointed shaft like a #2 Phillips screwdriver to wiggle the nut and brackets about a bit. This OFT allows the Magic Turn to occur when the bolt actually THREADS into a nut! Try that.

    I really have got good at motor mounts on the 1966 rides. Those insulators are really quite easy and forgiving, compared to truck brackets and mounts. I suspect your 67 uses the same thing as mine. See if you can align everything by taking a Phillips and wiggling the screwdriver shaft about so that it slightly moves the bracket/nut and stuff, and watch to see if you can get it all to line up. when having difficulty starting a bolt, this is often my silver bullet.
     
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  13. 67 ragtop

    67 ragtop New Member

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    Thanks I got it in today. I had to use another motor mount. The kept nut only had threads halfway through it. Only took me about 2 12 hours including removing and reinstalling. This time the mount just dropped right in. Thank you all. I appreciate the help and tried all your tricks. They are what helped me do it quickly today. Most of the time was do to limited movement on the ratchet.
     
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  14. oldkimmer

    oldkimmer New Member

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    Glad u got it done. Kim
     
  15. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    Space down there is limited. Get yourself a few good specialized sockets, wrenches et cetera to make it easier. Universal jointed sockets can be handy there. Don't scrimp on quality. Cheap will cost you more in the long run. DO secure your motor down on the driver side. Chain, turnbuckle or other torque strap, anything improves the longevity of the motor mounts. Mopar B/RB motors are torquey!