Is there any world where brake calipers are TOO seized to fix?

Lordofthepings777

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Been working on getting the brakes changed on my 1973 Chrysler Newport that sat for 30 years. Who would have guessed the calipers were seized!

After about 3 hours of work I’d say, I was able to successfully beat off the old calipers. I had planned on replacing the old rotors and brake pads of course, but the calipers themselves I was just going to rebuild with new pistons and gaskets, then clean and paint.

Turns out, these pistons are a pain in the *** to get out. I’m using my dad’s garage, and he doesn’t have a decent vice. I’ve already tried air pressure, but that didn’t work so I tried wedging sockets in there and spinning with rotational force with an Allen key (as seen in the photos), but this **** ain’t budging one bit! Are these too far gone? I’ve already spent about 2 hours of work and maybe 20-30 minute of watching videos and everyone says this is the way.

Any additional ideas? Without a good vice it makes this job hell.

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If the piston is steel, soak it in white vinegar. If it's aluminum DON'T! The vinegar will eat the rust. It will also eat aluminum and pot metal.
 
I'd keep soaking in something better than pb blaster.. and for a week or more....and trying to get them to rotate is probably the worst way to break them free considering the surface area of the rusted ring around the piston...using air usually works, trying a combination of fittings to adapt the brake line fitting to a grease fitting and using a grease gun may work, or hooking up to a hydraulic source like a porto power...if you've got somewhere that does hydraulic repairs and hoses nearby maybe they can help
 
CLR or evaporust down the hole's and around the piston, or soak the whole things 24 hours minimum. If the pistons are turning that's good. You're now fighting the seal. Place a piece of wood where the caliper goes, apply the air again and tap around with a hammer.

Thanks for the pictures of your improvised internal pipe wrench, that's clever!
 
You should never use air pressure to remove a caliper piston. If they do come out that way, they will come out suddenly and that is a very good way to get a caliper piston shot into an unsuspecting body part. As noted, use hydraulic pressure. At our shop we had an old single pot master cylinder rigged up to a stand to where the MC was worked with a lever to apply pressure to the stuck caliper piston via a flex brake hose hooked to the MC with appropriate fittings. Cal-Van also makes an extractor that hooks to the outer rim of the caliper piston that will work most of the time.

Dave
 
Put a block of wood where the pads go. Make it so the gap,is less than 1/4". Put calipers back on the car, bleed the air out.

Now you have 2000psi of hydraulic pressure to push it out.

Once loose then you can use air to remove it.
 
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Find a apropriatete Grease fitting to screw in the air bleed hole, Reinstall old brake hose, bend it back and clamp vise grips on hose to seal it.
Pump Grease in bleed hole.
Then give them a bath in a electrolysis setup.
Then sand blast
Get new pistons and seals from rock auto
 
Been working on getting the brakes changed on my 1973 Chrysler Newport that sat for 30 years. Who would have guessed the calipers were seized!

After about 3 hours of work I’d say, I was able to successfully beat off the old calipers. I had planned on replacing the old rotors and brake pads of course, but the calipers themselves I was just going to rebuild with new pistons and gaskets, then clean and paint.

Turns out, these pistons are a pain in the *** to get out. I’m using my dad’s garage, and he doesn’t have a decent vice. I’ve already tried air pressure, but that didn’t work so I tried wedging sockets in there and spinning with rotational force with an Allen key (as seen in the photos), but this **** ain’t budging one bit! Are these too far gone? I’ve already spent about 2 hours of work and maybe 20-30 minute of watching videos and everyone says this is the way.

Any additional ideas? Without a good vice it makes this job hell.

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Go buy tour dad a decent vice. Tools are cheap as compared to labor.
 
Put a block of wood where the pads go. Make it so the gap,is less than 1/4". Put calipers back on the car, bleed the air out.

Now you have 2000psi of hydraulic pressure to push it out.

Once loose then you can use air to remove it.
This is also how I do it on really stuck pistons. I usually have more than 1/4 space. More like 1 inch. The trick is for the piston to almost come out and stop on the wood block before it pops out of the seal. Usually one will move before the other one. When they both are out against the blocks knock the block out and the piston’s will usually come out the last bit fairly easily.
 
I successfully removed my stuck pistons with two opposing pry bars and penetrating oil. But in this case I agree that soaking in Evaporust for a few days would help. Clean each with super clean, purple power, or similar to remove oil and grease and soak each in a gallon of rust remover. It'll take a few days to remove all of the rust and start to penetrate between the piston and bore, although won't remove all of it down in there. Will need to soak after piston removal, too....

You could also apply heat to the calipers to enlarge the bores slightly to give more clearance, soften the seal..
 
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