issue with lights

LatPeahy

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Here's my problem, if i get in the car and drive it for a while or just fire it up to let it run and turn it off, the brake lights stay on. If I give a couple kicks to the brake pedal they go off. Was wondering if it might be the brake light switch. Another, of the many, problem i'm having is i have no reverse lights. Checked all the bulbs, they're good, but i havent chased any wires yet. they used to flicker when i put it in reverse but now i got nothing. would appreciate the help. thanks
 
Sounds like the brake light switch, (on the pedal), is out of adjustment. That's an easy fix. Also sounds like the reverse light switch may be out of adjustment but we'd need to know what car to help on any adjustments.
 
Column or console shift? Assuming column, but you know what they say about assuming.......
 
I think your reverse light switch is located on the base of the steering column and can be rotated on the steering column tube to adjust it, but I haven't personally worked on one of those so I can't say for sure.
 
Not sure of the condition of your car but I've seen brake switches get cruddy enough to cause a bind which would hold it in place until you kicked it a few times... not sure why this would occur specifically after warm up but I'd give both switches (brake and reverse) a good once over for cleanliness while you're in there.
 
Check adjustment on both brake light switch AND reverse switch on the column, and likely you'll get satisfaction.

HOWEVER, on occasion, the master cylinder itself gets a little crusty in the bore and doesn't always return fully... I had a master go bad that way and drain the battery because the brake lights were on after I parked it in the garage. Check that the master is allowing the pedal to fully return.
 
thats a good point ross. i just replaced the master cylinder and it seems like the problem with the lights happened after the replacement. brand new master cylinder from rock auto though
Check adjustment on both brake light switch AND reverse switch on the column, and likely you'll get satisfaction.

HOWEVER, on occasion, the master cylinder itself gets a little crusty in the bore and doesn't always return fully... I had a master go bad that way and drain the battery because the brake lights were on after I parked it in the garage. Check that the master is allowing the pedal to fully return.
 
After buying a couple OEM replacement brake light switches and bolting them on in the prescribed location with lacklustre results, I got a nice hydraulic switch which I installed on the spare connection of the master cylinder. I gave about $12 for mine last summer. Here it is now:

http://www.autozone.com/electrical-...port/1966/8-cylinders-6-3l-2bl-ohv/196416_0_0

Never had trouble w the reverse lights, so I can't help you there, but this widget sure made life easier than fiddling with the OEM rig down by the brake pedal. I too had to prop up my pedal w a soda can before I remedied things for good with this. Like a LOT of my 66 Newport, the old switch was original, and had been black taped after cracking. I popped about $8 at Oh Really? for a credible replacement for that, but it tended to get out of alignment, despite having tightened the 1/4"x20 retaining bolt down tight. Bracket also is original. THAT was what convinced me to go w a hydraulic switch. Too much drilling and tapping needed to possibly repair the ravages of time.....
 
Reverse switch is actuated by a pin poking out of column that moves from side to side in relation to the position of the gear lever.

The switch should have elongated mounting holes to allow side to side adjustment.

With the engine off, chock the wheels, put the key in the run position and put the car in reverse. Adjust the switch position to see if/when the lights come on. Get a mirror or a buddy to help you. You can also put the lever in park and manually play with switch to see if the lights come on then you will know if the issue lies somewhere else. New and used switches come up on eBay all the time.

Brake pedal switch moves in and out on a bracket, again with thr bracket having elongated holes to permit adjustment. The switch should be adjusted so that the switch is pushed in when the pedal is in the full up position. Pressing the pedal allows the switch plunger to pop out completing the circuit.
 
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Later Mopars w/ column shift have a 3-pin "neutral safety switch" which screws into the side of the transmission near the shift input. The outer 2 pins connect in R to turn on the backup lamps, the middle pin shorts to gnd in P or N. I thought my column-shift 65 Newport has the 3-pin NSS, but might be mixing up w/ my 1996 Voyager which also has a Torqueflite tranny and I know has the 3-pin. I know my 1965 Dart w/ floor shift has the 1-pin NSS and a backup lamp switch on the floor shifter.

For sure the brake pedal switch is simple to trouble-shoot, once you crawl under there where you can see it. One bolt to loosen and adjust it. Do that before they stay on all night and run down your battery.
 
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Good info Bill.... just clarify though, the car in question is a 65 NYr w/column shift automatic, so the reverse light switch is on the column.
 
got the brake lights adjusted right. didnt have much time to mess with the reverse lights though. one of the bulbs seemed to be out and i ran out of time yetserday to mess with it anymore.
 
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