Tackle one thing at a time not everything at once
Forget CL, sell it here.
You CAN do it Patrick! We were all in the same place once upon a time.....
I have a NOS choke thermostat for 2bbl 383 I will never use. I can sip it if you want it it is yours for free if you decide to keep the car.
The circled piece looks like a plug or different style bowl vent. Here is what the original looks like. When throttle is open the vent is closed. As soon as you idle or shutoff the engine it vents the vapor from the bowl. The intent was to prevent vapor lock at idle or hot starts.
Hang in there. These little things can be a real pain, but persist.
The clips for the bulk head connector are on the sides. Use a small common screwdriver pop the clips loose and then wiggle the connector apart. It is a little tricky to get in their off your paws are big.
If I sell it, I'm pretty sure I would do better at getting my money back out of it by selling to a young LCpl here on base. They think they can accomplish anything, and to them it's a "Big block classic car," that wouldn't suffer the scrutiny it would on the forum.
With that said, I landed in the ER yesterday. Thought I was having a heart attack, turned out it was my first panic attack. I've got quite a full plate, and keep adding to it. Something's gotta give, and I just haven't decided what I'm sticking with, and what I'm abandoning.
Sorry to hear that. Panic attacks suck, one was enough for me.
We scrutinize with love.
My biggest issue is having an extra set of hands. Everyone I know seems to have just enough time to ask me for help, but never enough time when I ask for it. Yeah, I can change my VCG's on my own, would it go smoother and quicker with an extra person? Absolutely. Despite wanting to throw a Molotov through the windshield, I went out and cleaned up some more of the wiring nightmare at the bulkhead. (Still haven't pulled the connection itself.) Because I don't know where the black wire goes that they spliced into, it makes it difficult to PROPERLY fix it, without taking apart all the factory loom under the hood to chase it down. I know it LOOKS black coming from the bulkhead, and when it doesn't have 12v, the ignition doesn't work. This is definitely the culprit from the night I brought it home, when it wouldn't start up showing it to my wife. Clearly it's one of the wires running to the key cylinder, I'm just not great at reading the wiring schematics.
One more thing about the bulkhead connector it is actually 3 connectors. Don't fret over putting them on in the wrong positions, they are keyed and will only fit in one slot. A test light will be your best friend since someone was messing with the wires.
Yeah, I have a test light, just can't fine my signal injector for tracing wires.
Do you have a picture of this splice? Does the wire go through the bulkhead connector?
Not a clear one. The black wore goes into the bulkhead in the engine bay, and it's tapped into 12v from the starter relay.
That would be the fusible link. It should be red from the starter relay to a connector and then dark blue (mistaken for black?) to the bulkhead connector.
Page 8-90 in your FSM, circuit A1B-10-R. On the interior side, it becomes circuit A1-12R on page 8-93 and runs from the J socket to the ammeter. That is your main power for almost everything.
It's not surprising if it's not dark blue, it could have been changed, or (hopefully not) bypassed with a jumper wire.
It's definitely original, and very well could be dark blue. The thing is, the black (or dkblu) wire comes from the bulkhead, and goes into loom, and where it goes from there, I don't know. There is a heavier gauge red wire connected 12v constant (from starter relay I think) which was haphazardly "T-Spliced" into the black/dkblue wire. There is also another loose red wire that was tapped into those, in a big unholy knot. It wasn't pretty. They stripped the insulation off one side of the blk/blu wire, slipped a stripped end of wire in there, twisted it, then crimped that jumper wire, and the 2 ends of red wire into a butt connector.
Wherever that black (or blue) wire goes when it leaves the bulkhead and into the loom, I have no idea. I have removed the jumper wires, and put spade connections on the red wire, just so I can identify them.
I'll post pictures and a little video clip when I get home.
Blu, don't fret the wiring diagrams, they may be a little confusing at first, but they are simple and very helpful.
Here we go!
This is the wiring now. Forgive the terminal connection, itsi only temporary.
Hard to see, huh? Here's a close up of the black/blue? wire, where it was "shaved" to splice.
This is where that same black wire goes into the bulkhead. It's not loose, and definitely in a terminal connection.
This is where wires come from the loom, and into starter relay.
...and this one is me wondering if it's the ground for my turn signal light?
Here is the video of the red wire that appears to be bypassing the bulkhead.
P.S. Since a Vac Advance is gonna cost me $40 anyway, I'm considering just buying a new distributor tomorrow. Is there any reason I shouldn't be able to swap the Pertronix internals over to the new one?
No reason at all.
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