Just bought an EFI

Cantflip, it dosent matter which way it's mounted but it needs to be straight up like that cause it is essentially a big float bowl. The whole benefit of this system is to not have to go by the tank and run however many feet of EFI line from the back to the front of the engine. The system retains the original fuel pump to fill it. Inertia switch is also in the planning. I just had a ton of other stuff happen financially so I couldn't focus too much on things on the car.
 
Just acquired an inertia switch! Now, I have two pumps, a low pressure one with a relay and the high pressure one powered by the ECU. How do I use 1 inertia switch to cut both pumps?

Edit: actually, it would make more sense to put the inertia switch to the low pressure pump so the pump dosent drain the tank in the engine compartment or continues filling up the reservoir.
 
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Just acquired an inertia switch! Now, I have two pumps, a low pressure one with a relay and the high pressure one powered by the ECU. How do I use 1 inertia switch to cut both pumps?

Edit: actually, it would make more sense to put the inertia switch to the low pressure pump so the pump dosent drain the tank in the engine compartment or continues filling up the reservoir.

Assuming both pumps are on relays, have the inertia switch supply the 12v control voltage for both relays. If the relays lose power it will shut off both pumps.

Kevin
 
...Only one pump has a relay, the low pressure pump. The EFI pump gets its feed directly from the ecu
 
...Only one pump has a relay, the low pressure pump. The EFI pump gets its feed directly from the ecu

Does it supply 12v + or - ground? In any case I wouldn't run the pump directly off that feed as that's a lot of current to run thru an ECM. I'd use a relay and if the ECM can be configured to to use ground for a signal, one inertia switch can still kill both pumps.

Kevin
 
Well, the ECU handles up to 15amps for a fuel pump and controls it via pwm. That means, the pump runs at 40% at idle and ramps up when there is more demand. Putting it on a relay eliminates that and I would need to run the pump at 100% all the time.
My low pressure pump runs when IGN on triggers a relay. That runs whenever the IGN is turned on to that it fills the EFI sump. They both run with +.
 
Well, the ECU handles up to 15amps for a fuel pump and controls it via pwm. That means, the pump runs at 40% at idle and ramps up when there is more demand. Putting it on a relay eliminates that and I would need to run the pump at 100% all the time.
My low pressure pump runs when IGN on triggers a relay. That runs whenever the IGN is turned on to that it fills the EFI sump. They both run with +.

PWM definitely changes things.

Does the ECM have any programmable outputs? If so you could have one trigger the low pressure pump relay and have the inertia switch run the main power for the ECM. No ECM power, no pump power.
Kevin
 
I could combine the switched 12v for the ecm and the small fuel pump and thenbhave that run through the inertia. That would shut off both, complete efi ecu and the small pump, yes.

Edit: i could also tie the inertia into the switched 12v which powers all my accessories. I have a small distribution block and the inertia switch could just kill power to that which means everything engine related is dead then.
 
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Well, the ECU handles up to 15amps for a fuel pump and controls it via pwm. That means, the pump runs at 40% at idle and ramps up when there is more demand. Putting it on a relay eliminates that and I would need to run the pump at 100% all the time.
My low pressure pump runs when IGN on triggers a relay. That runs whenever the IGN is turned on to that it fills the EFI sump. They both run with +.
This will most likely need a wiring schematic or even a few tests to prove out. The high pressure pump is the issue, as it's PWM. The high pump has pulse either + or -, Traditionally it would be -. To solve this, you could power the whole shooting match with one master relay and then set it to kill by the inertia switch. Sorry, I never would have guessed this to be so hard. Before getting super creative, why don't you see if their tech support can help. that way you get all of everybodies answers before redoing it twice.
 
sounds like you got this bro killing ECU is the pinch point i think, if u kill that the small pump does not matter as its before in the chain. but you stopped the flow at the sump tank. its gonna be a good install
 
Well, lets say in case of an accident, a fuel line bursts, or whaever, lets think the sump tank with the efi pump bursts open. If the ecu is killed by the inertia, the small pump by the tank will keep pumping until the tank is empty. Lets say, the inertia switch kills the efi pump, the small pump by the tank... yeah. But, lets say i put the inertia switch in line with the small pump at the tank, at an accident, there is a quart of fuel getting spilled but the small pump wont continue fueling the fire because it is not running anymore. That was my thought. Ecu will shut off anyways once tach signal is gone. Thats the thing, if the ecu dosent get a signal thatthe engine is running, it automatically shutos off the fuel pump after 5sec or so.
 
Well, over the past 2 years I have personally witnessed some pretty bad accidents and been thinking "in the fury, nobody would have probably survived" those were cases where one driver did a stupid thing and caused big car pileups like this one:
1 dead, several people injured in serious crash at Tualatin Valley Highway in Aloha

I was literally across the street in the auto parts store and saw the truck with trailer flying through the air. That keeps me thinking, I want to make it all a little safer, that's why I started with the 3 point belts and now trying to figure out the inertia switch. I am still looking for a nicer looking steering wheel pad for my wooden grand wheel... I also want to find some headrests or eventually put bucket seats in the front.
 
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Well, over the past 2 years I have personally witnessed some pretty bad accidents and been thinking "in the fury, nobody would have probably survived" those were cases where one driver did a stupid thing and caused big car pileups like this one:
1 dead, several people injured in serious crash at Tualatin Valley Highway in Aloha

I was literally across the street in the auto parts store and saw the truck with trailer flying through the air. That keeps me thinking, I want to make it all a little safer, that's why I started with the 3 point belts and now trying to figure out the inertia switch. I am still looking for a nicer looking steering wheel pad for my wooden grand wheel... I also want to find some headrests or eventually put bucket seats in the front.
I think your heart and head are in the right place on this. Try to make your mods as safe as possible and I can see the seat belts as a win too. At some point you just have to accept that you are dealing with the safety of an older car designed for a different era. You're far better off than the 50's car, and before you go too far trying to upgrade everything else...
https://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/27/business/takata-airbag-recall-crisis.html?_r=0
And
Do Car Airbags Expire? - Edmunds.com
I am working plan A (don't wreck) myself, as even my DD 99 GMC has a chance of killing me with the bag. No Takata bags before 2002 recalled, they must be safe. I find it amusing the way everyone stopped expiring airbags about the time that would have become a crippling cost to car ownership and the replacement of a driver and passenger set could be $2k or more. The real science behind the "airbags last the life of the car" is in the number crunchers proving that they could get away with leaving old ordnance in your dash. As stuff ages, the liabilities decline... not that old explosive compounds get better with age. Because it's "industry standard" it is unlikely any auto manufacturers will be hurt.

Any car regardless of age is going to have a variable in crash results... accidents are too random to predict everything. Any repairs, particularly structural ones, will change the crash worthiness of a car... for instance windshield replacement.

Moral of this post... do what you can to make things reasonably safe... then enjoy your car and stick to plan A whenever possible. A newer car is still no guarantee of protection.
 
Thank you. Yeah I know, can only do so much in an older car like this. I also have 3 kids and I want them to enjoy the car more too, that's why I'll install 3 point belts in the backseat soon too.

Back to the EFI. I just filled up and came out with 7.6mpg. now, it was way below freezing here and that might contribute, but...Wth? And it's not like it is running rich, I'm cruising in the 14ish:1 AFR most of the time but damn, the Holley got better gas mileage than this. But floor it twice and the mileage is out the window...
 
Thank you. Yeah I know, can only do so much in an older car like this. I also have 3 kids and I want them to enjoy the car more too, that's why I'll install 3 point belts in the backseat soon too.

Back to the EFI. I just filled up and came out with 7.6mpg. now, it was way below freezing here and that might contribute, but...Wth? And it's not like it is running rich, I'm cruising in the 14ish:1 AFR most of the time but damn, the Holley got better gas mileage than this. But floor it twice and the mileage is out the window...
Get a better data sample with another couple tries before you panic. Fuel quality, sitting time, temperature and just plain old error could be factors in this. Focus on how she drives for now, later on read the spark plugs to decide if she's running rich. Your A/F sensor will read everything it sees as coming from the cylinders, so any exhaust leaks are bound to throw it off. Check for leaks by using gloves or rags and try to hold your tail pipe shut at idle. A sound system will push away your hand(s), a leak will usually start to whistle a little so a helper may be needed to find out where it leaks.

Vacuum leaks could also contribute and you are running a 440 IIRC, it's only ever going to get so good. A big road trip would be a much better time to gauge this.
 
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