Just my luck. Three days in and.....

[Fast Eddie B]

Busted exhaust spring. 3 trips and about 50 miles on my 60 Fury. Couldn't have predicted it.

What would you do?

I could attempt a head-on repair, but couldn't get the valve to pop out with air. Might not work.

I could pull the head and replace a spring. A lot of work.

But at 57 and 100,000 miles... is it new motor time?

 

[65sporty]

I would change the spring on the car, shop air in the cylinder, tap the retainer with a hammer and use a spring puller. Done.

 

[Fury440]

I could attempt a head-on repair, but couldn't get the valve to pop out with air. Might not work.

I could pull the head and replace a spring. A lot of work.

But at 57 and 100,000 miles... is it new motor time?

My philosophy, "If it ain't broke - don't fix it". So, try a head on repair with air to hold the valve up, you'll need a compressor and a way to compress the new spring while you insert the lock. If that works great!!

if not pull the and head and then think about changing all the springs.

No point in a complete engine job if it isn't knocking and/or burning a ton of oil. unless of course you really feel the need to lighten your bank account!

 

[Fast Eddie B]

What is the secret to getting the valve to pop up? I got it so I can hear a little air going out the exhaust so the intake is closed but the exhaust valve is basically sitting loose. Should I pull up hard on the exhaust valve to get it started?

I have a valve spring compressor. Had an old caddy do this but the valve was bent and the head had to come out.

 

[MarPar]

 

[Fury440]

Is the broken spring causing the valve to bind? Knock out the retainer and see if the valve becomes free. If it's still stuck, the stem might be bent.

 

[65sporty]

Roll the motor over by hand and see if the valve closes. The best way to change the spring is to have the cylinder at TDC but most of the time it will roll to BDC which is ok as long as the valves remain closed.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

Is the broken spring causing the valve to bind? Knock out the retainer and see if the valve becomes free. If it's still stuck, the stem might be bent.

Stem is moving free up and down. I guess it could be bent since it is not sealing. The spring has stayed in place and kept the valve from dropping too deep but it could be still bent. I'll try harder tomorrow.

 

[Yatzee]

Busted exhaust spring. 3 trips and about 50 miles on my 60 Fury. Couldn't have predicted it.

What would you do?

I could attempt a head-on repair, but couldn't get the valve to pop out with air. Might not work.

I could pull the head and replace a spring. A lot of work.

But at 57 and 100,000 miles... is it new motor time?

View attachment 125633

Judging by the overall looks of the valve train, I'd say it's due for some serious work which would involve head removal. The other side's probably not much better. What's the problem with removing the heads - people do it every day. The downside is that this may be a indication of future issues with other springs. It appears as if you have water in the oil which renders that scungy, rusty appearance.

 

[cantflip]

Stem is moving free up and down. I guess it could be bent since it is not sealing. The spring has stayed in place and kept the valve from dropping too deep but it could be still bent. I'll try harder tomorrow.

If it was bent, it wouldn't come up to full height. I suspect you're still OK.

Judging by the overall looks of the valve train, I'd say it's due for some serious work which would involve head removal. The other side's probably not much better. What's the problem with removing the heads - people do it every day. The downside is that this may be a indication of future issues with other springs. It appears as if you have water in the oil which renders that scungy, rusty appearance.

I'm not so sure about rust and water... this looks to me like old PA crude brands high paraffin oil... which was the best in her day. You could take the valve covers off a sludgy one and see the the impressions of the rockers in the packed covers... I would go with the short term repair on this and keep an eye on her until I decided to get drastic.

 

[Carmine]

If air won't get it, you can try some rope. Basic idea:

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Rope in spark plug hole then bring piston up to close valve, be careful to not get rope caught under valve head.

 

[sb61fury]

Busted exhaust spring. 3 trips and about 50 miles on my 60 Fury. Couldn't have predicted it.

What would you do?

I could attempt a head-on repair, but couldn't get the valve to pop out with air. Might not work.

I could pull the head and replace a spring. A lot of work.

But at 57 and 100,000 miles... is it new motor time?

View attachment 125633

Rebuild the motor.

 

[Knebel]

You know...if it dosent hold air, I'd take the heads off and have at it with some lapping compound too...

 

[Fast Eddie B]

Great stuff! I knew this was a smart group. I put some air in it this am and it help up the valve. Not that tight, but it held it out. Some leaking but it could have been something. I ordered new parts from Rock Auto so we'll see how it goes. We'll try the rope trick first.

 

[Carmine]

Great stuff! I knew this was a smart group. I put some air in it this am and it help up the valve. Not that tight, but it held it out. Some leaking but it could have been something. I ordered new parts from Rock Auto so we'll see how it goes. We'll try the rope trick first.

Good to hear. Keep us updated.

 

[cantflip]

Great stuff! I knew this was a smart group. I put some air in it this am and it help up the valve. Not that tight, but it held it out. Some leaking but it could have been something. I ordered new parts from Rock Auto so we'll see how it goes. We'll try the rope trick first.

An old cast iron baby like that can surprise you how much they can scrub themselves back to life with some use. A few valve cover bolts so far... good call leaving her together for now. Rebuilding decisions can come after you see if she comes back to life with some more miles. Plus you NY folks are expecting a blizzard right after August. Or is that only in @Big_John 's neighborhood?

 

[Fast Eddie B]

Hmmmm.... doesn't look like you can replace a valve spring on a 318 poly without removing the whole head.... check out the pic from earlier.. The rocker arms are all sitting on a common rail that is not moving without the head being out.

Unless someone knows otherwise, that means....

No point taking out the head without doing all the springs...
So why not do all the springs...
Oh, and the valves. How about doing them...
And then the right side. Can't have one new head and one old head....
And then who wants to put a new heads on a 100k block?

So... what options do I have:

Not likely going to get a 318 poly crate motor...
So rebuild?
Or is there something easier to get to fit in there?

 

[Carmine]

I've never worked on a poly engine...

However... back of lash adjuster until you can remove pushrod, pivot rocker out of the way?

I could be wrong, just looking at your photo. Obviously count the turns, mark the adjuster, etc. That is a cruddy looking engine, but it seems to me you have little to lose other than a valve spring. It gets you back on the road and more time to plan.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

I'll go give that a try right now. The whole point of getting it was to drive it around. I can do the motor when there is 3' of snow outside.