Kelsey Hayes Booster question.

Omni

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Good Afternoon All
On the newly acquired '65 Newport, there was evidence of a master cylinder leak where the cylinder bolts up to the booster.
I removed the booster today to clean it up and make it pretty again. Once the booster was unbolted and physically out, you could hear liquid sloshing around inside. I removed the check valve and dumped out about 3 or 4 tablespoons of the nastiest black fluid that I have ever encountered. I will ASSUME that it was the accumulation of brake fluid that leaked past the seal.
The booster was still working fine, so my question is do i button it up and reinstall?
Thanks to all who respond.
Omni
 

Trace 300 Hurst

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Do I button it up and reinstall?

I would. Brake fluid doesn't attack the rubber diaphragm nor the other parts, so if it's working.....

You might want to let it sit overnight with the hole straight down and let the nasty fluid fully drain.

This opinion comes from a guy who just sent his ultrararium impossible-to-find 69/70 Bendix Dual Diaphragm unit to the Booster Exchange ("Dewey") yesterday for a rebuild. But mine was hissing like a snake from the internal vacuum leak and has to be rebuilt since it barely stopped the car.
 

Omni

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300 Hurst
Thanks for the response. That is what I will do after applying some 'rattle can' cadmium plating (aka gold).

Omni
 

Trace 300 Hurst

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300 Hurst
Thanks for the response. That is what I will do after applying some 'rattle can' cadmium plating (aka gold).

Omni
If you haven't used that paint before, you might want to practice on some strips of bare sheetmetal (hardware store, Depot) so you don't end up with a bizarro-yellow-gold color. I've never used the "cad" stuff before, but I've seen plenty of AWFUL boosters, wiper motors, and other components at so many car shows. Just sayin'.

I have used Eastwood's phosphate coating. Other than the fact that it is opaque and thus "idiot proof" to use, the end result after three thin coats is amazing.
 
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