Kinda a newbie question

Pax2001

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Ok, got the old 440 fired up after replacing the gas tank et al. It will start and run with a drop or two of gas down it's throat (a little rough, but it's been sitting) but if I try to let it idle it will die and not restart without dropping some more gas down the carb. I set the idle up a bit - probably around the 1k rpm mark (by ear) and it's fine. Once it stops, again no restart.
I checked the hoses to the carb for leaks and couldn't find anything obvious.
As the fuel tank was so rotten I thought the lines might be clogged so I ran a new temp gas line from the new tank to the pump - didn't help (by the way - two sucks on the line is enough to get gas close to the pump, three is a taster - Blech!. Just a bit of info for future reference...)
The only thing I haven't double checked yet is the carb mount bolts or gasket.
It's running an Edelbrock (sp) 4 barrel carb
I have a new pump, if needed, but I don't think that is the issue.
Any thoughts?

Oh, offhand, I think I got a score with the car as the seats and door trims are all pretty good. It has a new stainless exhaust system installed too. Don't know how old the tires are, but they've got a lot of tread on them.
 

bluefury361

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Sounds like a accl pump in the carb, or a low floar level. Best bet.... Send the carb to Woodfuff to be restored. (see ad here).
And don't go by tread on the tires.... Replace them if over 7 years old.
 

Davea Lux

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Usually when they won't run at idle, it is because the idle screws are set too lean or something has clogged the idle passages. As noted check the float level. If that is ok, turn out the idle screws about 1 turn and see if that improves the idle.

Dave
 

Pax2001

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when I had it at a higher idle I tried turning the screws out about 1/2 a turn each but that made it run a bit rougher. I will rip the top off of the carb and check the float levels tomorrow. A clog is also possible due to the amount of time she's been sitting and the state of the old tank.
Thanks for the help, every thought and idea is greatly appreciated
 

Pax2001

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Also, to review, it will not restart without gas being poured into the carb - even if I stomp the gas pedal - does that still go along with float levels? or does it point to something else? my experience is limited.
 

WOT440

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When it doesn't start, look into the carb, and move the throttle to WOT. Do you see fuel squirting?
 

MEV

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Take the line off of the carb from the fuel pump, have someone crank it, it should push a sizeable volume of fuel out the line under cranking if the fuel pump is primed and getting fuel.
 

Turboomni

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You are capable enough if you installed a gas tank to put in your new fuel pump and get a rebuild kit for your edelbrock carb. Easy to rebuild if like most of them. You have any idea how old the installed pump is? If a new pump came with the car that might be a hint! Any pics or links of your car? Congrats on your new ride and welcome to the forum!!! :thumbsup:
 

Turboomni

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Tires have a date code of manufacture. Don'f screw around with old tires and poor brakes. That comes first!.
 

Pax2001

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Thinking out loud here
Shouldn't it start without the gas pedal being pumped?
the pump seems to be able to supply enough gas to let it rev and hold revs
I thought about the fuel pump once I saw the state of the tank - so I bought a new one, just haven't installed it yet as the old one seems to be able to keep up with the engine at higher revs

Also, how do I read tire date codes?
Many thanks for all the ideas and help - keep 'em coming, Please
 

Pax2001

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as to brakes, I popped a rear wheel cylinder - so I bought 2 new ones to replace both sides... lol
 

Pax2001

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My manual says to Never jack or support the car using the frame... where are the actual support/jack points? I jacked mine up under the diff and put stands under the front of the rear spring hangers to do the gas tank. I need to drop off the rear wheels to do the brake cylinders, where is the safest place to put the jack stands?
 

300L

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My manual says to Never jack or support the car using the frame... where are the actual support/jack points? I jacked mine up under the diff and put stands under the front of the rear spring hangers to do the gas tank. I need to drop off the rear wheels to do the brake cylinders, where is the safest place to put the jack stands?

The jackpoints are on the front/rear bumper. If you got the original jack, you will know how to use it ;)

s-l300[1].jpg
 

Polara500Fan

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Given the uncertainty of what is hiding inside the old pump and carb, I'd certainly second the advice to put in the new pump and rebuild the carb. Great tip about making sure it's the right pump (or set correctly if adjustable) for your flow rate!

More a general comment than one specific to your idle / stall note: Getting up off idle can hide a lot of more mundane issues such as low or uneven compression, and I'd continue to suspect vacuum leaks until proven otherwise.

Good luck, and let us know just what new prize we are talking about here!
 

Mike66Chryslers

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The jackpoints are on the front/rear bumper. If you got the original jack, you will know how to use it ;)

View attachment 462237
I wouldn't use the original jack to jack up the car by the bumpers except in dire emergency. That's a good way to tweak the bumpers so they're not lined-up properly anymore.

I use my shop jack to lift the car by the frame, but 1) I have a flat pad to use in place of the cupped end that came with it, and 2) I only jack in certain places that I know are stiff enough to support it. With jackstands, when I put those under the frame I put a piece of 2x4 between the jackstand and the frame rail to distribute the load so it doesn't crush the frame member.
 

69PHOENIX

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G'Day,
I Agree Entirely with Mike66+.
I've had a Couple of Cars Slide Sideways, SO Not Fond of Bumper Jacks at All.
Also a Little Advice, ALWAYS have a Car Stand under the Car along with the Jack, I had an Old Friend who Died when a Jack Failed while he was Reaching Under a Car.
Also if you are Changing a Flat on the Side of the Road Throw the Flat Tyre under the Car until you have the Spare Secured, It Might Just Save you from being Injured.
"She'll be Right" is a Popular Expression over Here, A Comment First Spoken by a Retired Crocodile Wrestler with One Arm. ( Back When He Still Had Two Arms LOL)
Tony.M
 

1970FuryConv

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Thinking out loud here
Shouldn't it start without the gas pedal being pumped?
the pump seems to be able to supply enough gas to let it rev and hold revs
I thought about the fuel pump once I saw the state of the tank - so I bought a new one, just haven't installed it yet as the old one seems to be able to keep up with the engine at higher revs
Also, how do I read tire date codes?
Many thanks for all the ideas and help - keep 'em coming, Please
I always pump the gas 4 times when cold and then apply light pedal pressure when I turn the key. Even when engine is warm, it requires light pedal pressure to start. The only cars that start with no pedal pressure are fuel injected.

Jack points are at frame, but use 2x4s on top of jackstands or you will get dents in your subframes.
Holy crap, my tire code is EJRF-CFK370, does that mean they are the original tires or am I interpreting it wrong?
Tire dating
Look on the back of the tire
· Date is only on one side and comes after the code you saw. DOT date 501 with small triangle beside the 1. Tire made during 50th week of 1991. All tires made after 2000 have 4 digits 2 to ID week and last 2 digits of year made. 2008= 20th week 2008.
 
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