left to rot

Fuselage Years

  1. boostedvan

    boostedvan Member

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    I went and looked at a 1971 Chrysler 300 a couple of weeks back that's near me. Originally I looked at the car in 2014 but passed as the stub frame was pretty rotted and the owner wouldn't budge on price. He did eventually sell it and the new owner has let it sit outside in a lean to beside his large garage. I've driven past it for the last couple years, and finally got in contact with him.
    In the six years the car has been sitting in standing water and open to the elements it has made the car deteriorate badly. There is now serious rot in both 1/4 panels, both fenders have holes in the lower sections, the trunk floor has some bad rust in the center section and the trunk seams are all splitting apart. The interior has held up and surprisingly under the rear window is pretty solid.
    The sad thing is, they new owner has about a dozen other Muscle cars that are stored inside and well lokked after, but this and a couple mid 70's GM convertibles are left out to rot.
    I made an offer on the car for cash and some four speed stuff for a E-body so it'll probably be coming home with me. Don't know what the future hold for it, but I just dont want to see it rot into the ground anymore than it already has. Any input on what I should do with it? For now I was just going to tuck it away in dry storage.

    The first two pics are from when it was for sale in 2014, the rest are current photos of it.

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  2. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    If the rear frame rails were intact, the trunk floor and the lower quarter radii could be patched, front fenders are a bolt on replacement. Stub frame is also a bolt on replacement. If the rear frame rails are also rotted, this is probably going to be a parts car as while they can be replaced, it is very expensive if you are not doing the work your self. This is another good example of a decent car that the current owner did not appreciate and let it go to hell. To bad.
     
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  3. Newport 66

    Newport 66 Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    What a waste! There's no explaining some peoples thought processes or complete lack of said....
    Thanks for your rescue efforts!!:thumbsup:
     
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  4. Wollfen

    Wollfen Old Man with a Hat

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    I would say, very salvable based on your description, but then again, I am a glutton for punishment.
     
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  5. boostedvan

    boostedvan Member

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    Both rear frame rails are swollen and crispy, especially on the drivers side where the water runs past the car. It lived in the Snow country of British Columbia for most of its life so even when I looked at it in 2014 it was pretty rusty on the underside.
    I do feel like it might end up as a parts car down the road, its a shame but fixing it would be a huge undertaking. For now it will remain whole and sit in covered storage so it doesn't get any worse.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2020
  6. boostedvan

    boostedvan Member

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    There is another car that also follwed me home recently. Its a pretty clean Newport in a somewhat rare colour. Overall its solid, but the stub is rotten in it. The rest of it is solid and dry. Trying to come up with a clean one so I can put it back on the road, though our climate makes it tough to find a good donor car.

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  7. saforwardlook

    saforwardlook Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Very rare Newport indeed in terms of color - Winchester Gray Metallic body with a Gunmetal Vinyl Roof. Nice looking. It also looks like it could be a low miles vehicle given how nice the seats/underhood look. I would replace the stubframe and make it nice. It looks like a nice straight body too. The dutchman panel isn't bad despite the stub-frame rust and only a few small bumps below the rear window lower trim. Worth doing IMO.

    The 300 is nicely optioned with power windows, buckets/console, tilt/tel wheel but then it does have auto temp II (the only ATC that isn't that hard to get working well though) and outside right rear view mirror. Given how nice the driver seat bottom looks and how straight the body looks (and especially since all the body side moldings are still on the car!) it too must be a low miles car. Does it run and if so, does it run well? It is the standard 440 but it has been fitted with dual exhaust it appears. I would hope that car could be saved. Let me know if you ever decide to sell it, as I might be interested down the road. And thanks for posting the body code plates, as that helps a lot. At least we know this 300 is amber sherwood metallic and not april green metallic as a result.
     
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  8. 71Polara383

    71Polara383 Kid with ballcap FCBO Gold Member

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    I saw not one but TWO 71 Chryslers and was wondering how long it would take for you to chime in Steve!:realcrazy::poke::lol:
     
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  9. saforwardlook

    saforwardlook Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    You know me all too well Wyatt!! :D
     
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  10. rags

    rags Well-Known Member

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    same moldings as '69 newport?
     
  11. ayilar

    ayilar Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    @boostedvan -- congrats on getting CE23L1C249777. Superb color combo; coincidentally, @mindshark13 recently sold a triple-gunmetal NYer 2dr of the same model year in Florida. Here is the tag decode of your 1971 Newport (the B VON indicates that the car was built for Canada -- cue also the rear defogger and lack of A/C):

    C: Chrysler
    E: Economy (Newport)
    2 Door Hardtop

    L: 383 275HP 1-2BBL 8 CYL
    1: 1971
    C: Jefferson Avenue, MI, USA

    249777: Sequence number

    E61: 383 cid 2 barrel V8 290hp
    D32: Heavy Duty Automatic Transmission
    GA4: Light Gunmetal Poly Exterior Color
    E1A6: Trim - Gunmetal Gray Front Bench Seats
    000: Full Door Panels
    520: Build Date: May 20
    B22763: Order number

    V1A: Full Vinyl Top, Gunmetal Gray
    R13: Deluxe AM Radio (5 1/2 Watts)
    L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals
    H31: Rear Window Defogger
    B41: Front Disc Brakes w/Standard 10in RR Drum
    R31: Rear Seat Speaker(s)


    Good luck on getting CS23T1C158336, another B-VON car. Here is the tag decode for this 1971 Chrysler 300:

    C: Chrysler
    S: Special (300)
    23: 2 Door Hardtop

    T: 440 cid 4 barrel V8 350hp
    1: 1971
    C: Jefferson Avenue, MI, USA

    158336: Sequence number

    E85: 440 cid 4 barrel V8 350hp
    D32: Heavy Duty Automatic Transmission
    GF3: Medium Green Poly Exterior Color
    S6F7: Trim - Vinyl Bucket Seats, Green
    000: Full Door Panels
    B20: Build Date: November 20
    B23994: Order number

    V1W: Full Vinyl Top, White
    H53: AutoTemp II
    R13: Deluxe AM Radio (5 1/2 Watts)
    L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals
    H31: Rear Window Defogger

    P31: Power Windows
    S61: Tilt/Telescopic Steering Column
    C16: Console w/Woodgrain Panel

    B41: Front Disc Brakes w/Standard 10in RR Drum
    G11: Tinted Glass (all)
    V5F: Body Side Stripes, Green

    R31: Rear Seat Speaker(s)

    Plenty of good advice above for both cars, so I'd go with Dave's and Steve's advice here. Enjoy!
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
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  12. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    Wow, That green '71 300 is beautiful with a great collection of options. If this is a parts car then my TX9 '70 Coupe is nothing more than scrap metal, and I still plan on bringing that one back to life. Get it running, patch the frame rails, polish up the paint and drive it.
     
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  13. Rustyrodknocker

    Rustyrodknocker Active Member

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    Don't part the 300 is my input. I know of a mint bottom. If you sell, please list it here. I might be interested if I wasn't buried but logic has never stopped me before either. If it is parted, well, ill pm about that but I hope its saved.
     
  14. saforwardlook

    saforwardlook Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Very similar as long as we are not talking Newport Custom, which are different. The moldings are the same shapes but on the 1969 Newport, the moldings have a brushed metallic pattern on them whereas the 71's are a plain finish on them - and in 1971, the 300s added a ribbed rubber molding on top that was color keyed to the body color (every other rib had a color similar to the body color and the other ribs were either white or black depending on accompanying color on the other ribs). Here is a better photo of the moldings on one of my former 71 300s I recently sold:

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    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
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  15. Dobalovr

    Dobalovr Being on the Cbody diet SUCKS! FCBO Gold Member

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    @boostedvan Well my 69 Newport Vert is available if you want a donor......:poke::lol:
     
  16. brougham brummel

    brougham brummel Well-Known Member

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    wow.It should be a law to preserve all 2 door fusies.It doesn,t take much to wax and properly cover a car.B.B
     
  17. boostedvan

    boostedvan Member

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    Thanks for the replies. The green 300 will be rescued from where it sits, I will get some better photos when I pick it up and give it a quick bath. When I drove it in 2014 it ran good, shifted fine and stopped well. The exhaust is kind of ratty on it with a couple leaks but nothing too bad. I can't remember if the Autotemp worked or not. I wouldn't even attempt to try and drive it now, when I looked at it I was pulling chunks of the stub frame off and it was packed with rocks and sand.
    The car has some good points, but there is a lot of rust in the seams of the body and so on. If you look in between the trunk lid and the rear bumper on the passenger side you can see it. The trunk isn't terrible, and could be patched but it would be a big job. Then the frame rails and the 1/4 panels, fenders, wheel houses, etc. I won't part the car out before offering up here first, will keep this updated once a deal is reached. For the parts I offered up in trade, I'm into the car for a good amount of money already. I just didn't want to see it get any worse.

    The Winchester gray car is super cool and really in decent shape overall. The stub on that could be patched, but I'm looking for a donor one before trying that. I'll spend a weekend on it trying to bring the paint back and cleaning up the interior as best as I can. It's a very straight and original car. The doors close nice, no leaks, and everything works as it should. I bought it mostly for the colour as its one of my favorite Mopar colours in 1971. After getting it running and doing a quick spin around the block, I've taken a liking to it so it might be one I keep. Again, if I do decide to sell it I will offer it up here first.

    I do happen to have a donor car, but I feel bad about ripping it apart as its a really nice running and driving car.

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    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
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  18. 71Polara383

    71Polara383 Kid with ballcap FCBO Gold Member

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    I have a solid sub frame I would trade for those roadwheels with caps and rings...:poke:
     
  19. boostedvan

    boostedvan Member

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    The road wheels are the only reason I bought the car! If I come up with another set, I'll let you know.
     
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  20. FK3 Sport Fury

    FK3 Sport Fury Hoser in a toque

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    Those are both really cool cars,hopefully the 300 can be salvaged or maybe have all it's good parts swapped onto a solid shell that's been painted to match.I saw a 71(?) 300 sitting in Southern Oregon a few years back that looked really straight and solid.Probably still there.

    That Newport will be a sweet driver with a bit of TLC.I found this thread a few year back about reviving old single stage paints and it seems like the way to go.That car would look awesome shined up with a nice set of road wheels or something similar.

    The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
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