Let's see your air compressors

My back-up emergency compressor...

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:p
 
Currently using one of these...
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No actual picture at this time as I keep it under the breaker panel in the only space I have for it in the garage at the moment. I don't want to upset the electricians in here:poke:

BTW, I know it's crap... but its worked for a few years now and cost less than $150 when I bought it on sale...
 
CP haz two thingz goin' for it... Cheap and if it doez die the replacement iz cheap too. Where else can you buy $25 air toolz that will out last one that costs way more, and still do 99% of everything that needz to be done?
 
YO, Fury 440. Iz that PVC or CPVC we're lookin' at on your garage wall pushin' 150+ lbs. with ball valvez and such screwed and glued into the jointz?
I used one of these kits for most of the system. The drier was made with 3/4" and 1/2" black iron pipe. The bleed valves to dump accumulated water are ball. An extension circuit runs into the house to my basement work bench and to a connection to the yard irrigation system so that the water lines are easier to blow out for winter. That line has a ball valve for isolation.
The tank fills to about 140lbs, but my plumbing is limited to 90 lbs.
Did I get it wrong?
 
I used one of these kits for most of the system. The drier was made with 3/4" and 1/2" black iron pipe. The bleed valves to dump accumulated water are ball. An extension circuit runs into the house to my basement work bench and to a connection to the yard irrigation system so that the water lines are easier to blow out for winter. That line has a ball valve for isolation.
The tank fills to about 140lbs, but my plumbing is limited to 90 lbs.
Did I get it wrong?
When our shop was rebuilt the boss used a Rapid Air kit, beautiful kit. I think Jerry's question is with your use of PVC pipe. I have heard of guy's using it and the pipe exploding. In don't know any specifics but I guess over time the plastic will crack and then BOOM!!!
 
When our shop was rebuilt the boss used a Rapid Air kit, beautiful kit. I think Jerry's question is with your use of PVC pipe. I have heard of guy's using it and the pipe exploding. In don't know any specifics but I guess over time the plastic will crack and then BOOM!!!
Yea, rigid PVC or CPVC is dangerous to use as air line.

Here's the deal.... Compressed air has a lot of stored energy. When a pipe bursts, the PVC explodes with a lot of shrapnel.

The argument for PVC is that the PVC is rated above the working pressure of most air lines. The problem is that is a hydraulic pressure rating using water and pressurized water does not have that stored energy. Think of a balloon filled with air. Pop the balloon it explodes with a lot of noise and the bits of balloon going all over. Fill it full of water and pop it. All that happens is the water falls out of the balloon and you get wet.

Even if you were to say that "pressure is pressure", PVC pressure capability deteriorates quite a bit with heat. At 140°F, the strength is derated to 20% of the strength at 60°F. So your 1" schedule 40 PVC that you bought at Home Depot might be rated at 270 PSI at 60° but let's say your lines are running through your attic and it's a hot day and the compressor is pushing some hot air. 140° (or a lot more) is pretty easy is hit and now the pipe is has a rating of 54 PSI.

PVC Pipes - Pressure Ratings

That isn't even considering glued joints etc.

There's other issues to be considered too. I've read of a PVC plumbed air system that blew during a small garage fire and the resulting rush of air fanned the flames and the small fire became a big one and the garage and cars were lost.

Copper is better, but if you use 50/50 solder for the joints, the rating dips quite a bit. You want to use type L rather than the thin wall type M that you buy at Home Depot.

http://www.alascop.com/pdf/cu/water_tubing_1.pdf

The air line kits like shown above are supposed to be pretty good. I've used similar line and fittings in pneumatic circuits with no problems.

Myself, I have a short run from the basement, where I keep my ancient 5 HP Sears compressor, to the garage. Since most of it is through a finished ceiling, and it's only charged when I'm using it, I just used a good quality air hose. Eventually, I'll have to change it, but that will just be a matter of using one to pull the new one through. I have a Harbor Fright retractable air line on the wall and that works out real well for my use.
 
I used one of these kits for most of the system. The drier was made with 3/4" and 1/2" black iron pipe. The bleed valves to dump accumulated water are ball. An extension circuit runs into the house to my basement work bench and to a connection to the yard irrigation system so that the water lines are easier to blow out for winter. That line has a ball valve for isolation.
The tank fills to about 140lbs, but my plumbing is limited to 90 lbs.
Did I get it wrong?
Not at all az far az I'm concerned if either will hold the pressure. Sure iz way less expensive then the 70' of 1/2" galvanized I ran in my pole barn with my last set up.Those three 20' sections with the connecting 180* bendz was ah PITA to hang at one time 10' in the air! So I'm holdin' my breath, PVC or CPVC and I have no clue what the pressure strength is on either one BUT?
 
Good info John, thanks. Just to add about copper mine was done with no soldering. I used the crimped connectors. My system holds 150 psi and I've had no leaks in the 5 years it's been done. The connectors cost a little more but the labor cost is way down due to no sweating of all those joints.
 
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