like to eliminate this two piece driveshaft

Dana

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Got a 63 Imp I really don't want to sink a ton of $$ into. The carrier bearings I've found are either not the best quality, or very pricey. It measure 61.5 inches from the center of the front u-joint, to the center of the rear u-joint. Is there a one piece ball and trunion driveshaft out there that long. This thing is a 129" wheel base. Thanks
 
It might look flaky, but there's a reason that Chrysler used a two-piece drive shaft rather than a single piece. Best to repair what you have, as a single piece night not clear the frame the two-piece unit goes though. Find the best quality bearings you can AND make sure the rubber is in good condition, too. To build a new driveshaft "to spec", could easily cost over $300.00, for reference.

Check the Online Imperial Club website for links and possible sources of the items you need. If there are any adjustment shims under where the bearing assembly mounts, put everything back like you found it, regarding the shims, if there are any. Be sure to check the condition of the u-joints, too.

CBODY67
 
If memory serves me correctly, the carrier bearing is a stock TRW item. Pull it off and research the number. Put it back the same way. If you have not already pulled the two piece drive line, scribe the position of the center carrier, it will save you a lot of grief. As noted above, this is a good time to inspect or replace the u-joints. A single piece drive line in not appropriate to this car unless you are willing to trim the second cross member/ frame. There is no good reason to ever do that.

Dave
 
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Got a 63 Imp I really don't want to sink a ton of $$ into. The carrier bearings I've found are either not the best quality, or very pricey. It measure 61.5 inches from the center of the front u-joint, to the center of the rear u-joint. Is there a one piece ball and trunion driveshaft out there that long. This thing is a 129" wheel base. Thanks
If your center bearing or it's holder is going out prematurely you've obviously got an alignment issue with your drive shaft (probably in the horizontal plain) that needs to be addressed. If you want to go single piece I highly recommend you go to a driveline shop for advice. Here's what I discovered in two attemps to go single from double driveshaft: 1- A long single shaft is heavier (if steel) and exerts a lot of wear on the tail shaft bushing of the tranny. Of course aluminum and carbon fiber are an option. 2- The rear differential pinion angle has to be changed. 3- When a long single shaft distorts or bows under torque (which they do) , disaster soon follows. For the length you mention you'd probably need a shaft 4 1/2 or more in diameter , new yolks and way heavier universal joints. 4- The frame on the car is engineered for strength (that's a big car) and cutting on it means you have to put something back in equally as rigid. If you can't find a quality center hanger, go to a driveline shop to find out if there are any other options like a pillow block or something else.
 
You don't think of driveshaft "weight", but it's there. Having a center support to help hold it up makes life easier on the rear tail shaft bushing (relates to rear tail seal life and leaks). A two-piece shaft has different vibration harmonics, too, than a single-piece unit.

IF there are any "water shields" on each side of the bearing, keep and reinstall them--period! It might be a "sealed bearing", but NOT sealed that well against moisture or dust. The deflectors are there for a purpose, too! We discovered that when a tech changed the carrier bearing in our '69 Chevy pickup, said "These aren't needed. It's a sealed bearing." And chunked them. One year later, the bearing was full of grit and needed replacement, plus a new set of deflectors, which it got.

CBODY67
 
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