Locktight question...

CanCritter

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whats recommended for cam bolt and crankshaft bolts...blue or red locktight…?
thanx
 
I agree with Stubs, clean the threads, lube with 10W30 and torque them. I like to let things "settle" awhile and then go back and check the torque just to be sure.
I only use locktight on small nuts and bolts since they can't handle a lot of torque and are harder to get tight. also they tend to loosen off with heat/cool cycles so a little "glue" can't hurt. Just my 2 cents!
 
I use blue for rod bolts and cam bolts. Oil on main bolts.
 
Red and green tends to be permitant, each can be broken with a solvent or direct heat
 
I agree with Stubs, clean the threads, lube with 10W30 and torque them. I like to let things "settle" awhile and then go back and check the torque just to be sure.
I only use locktight on small nuts and bolts since they can't handle a lot of torque and are harder to get tight. also they tend to loosen off with heat/cool cycles so a little "glue" can't hurt. Just my 2 cents!

Properly torqued, neither rod bolts or main bolts should ever come loose on a stock engine. The flat collar on the base of rod bolts and the base of the main bolt head will bite into the metal they seat on and hold tight. Main caps will usually break before a bolt will come loose and a spun rod bearing will stretch the bolts or the rod cap before anything will work loose. A broken or stretched cap or bolt relieves the tension and then the bolts can work loose, usually the engine is already toast at this point. On high RPM race engines we used aircraft grade Permatex on the threads as it remains tacky and is oil resistant. If one the above conditions has started a catastrophic failure, no amount of thread lock tight is going to help much.

Dave
 
And if I ever find the A-hole that put whatever it is on the crane screw of my snubbie to unsure it will never comes off, I want to beat the ever lovin tar outta them!
 
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