Looking for an undercarriage photo

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    Does anyone have an undercarriage photo of a '68 Fury showing the oil pan area/front steering components? I have looked online and can't find one.
    I have the big shop manual and the drawings of the steering linkage aren't great. A photo would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Just curious what your concern might be?

    One "in plain sight" source of undercarriage pictures can be the many online national car sellers (for the owner). I suspect that as long as you stay in the '67-'68 model years, you might find a Fury (or more) for sale. www.streetsideclassics.com and www.gatewayclassics.com are two national sellers, for example. Each of their cars for sale usually have something like 40+ pictures, including the undercarriage with the car on a lift. Only thing is that a good number of their cars for sale are not completely OEM stock production in all areas, but usually still close enough to that criteria in the area you are interested in.

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2020
  3. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    are you just trying to up your post count?

    20160519_163203.jpg

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  4. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    Haaaaa!!! Seems like it doesn't it!! No, actually, I've had tons of response on this site even without any sort of post count status. Including these photos you just posted. Exactly what I was looking for! Much appreciated.
    My deal is for the first time in a while I've got a bit of time and money to throw at my car and am trying to get my ducks in a row. My Fury lives in Mexico and I'm trying to get a handle on what I might need to knock out some of the known issues. Vintage Plymouth parts are hard to find down there. Much easier to obtain up here. I've got what I think is a super leaky oil pan. I just don't know enough about the steering linkage/suspension parts that are in the way of replacing the gasket.
     
  5. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    My goal is strictly familiarization. I have a Fury but not with me at the moment and I need to get under there and possibly replace my oil pan gasket. I've never done this before and am not familiar with the front suspension/steering system. I have the '68 shop manual but the drawings are not that great for the steering parts, etc. that are apparently in the way of the oil pan gasket.
    Thanks for the leads! Saylor posted a couple of great photos. If I need another view I will pursue the sites you listed. Good to know about.
     
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  6. Wollfen

    Wollfen Old Man with a Hat

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    To drop the pan on the 65 to 73 C bodies all you need to do is undo the pitman arm and idler arm bolt and move the draglink out of the way, after that it is easy. If you need some more clearance, then you can undo the two bolts holding the engine mounts in, the drivers side you access from in front of the starter motor and the passengers side is accessed under the alternator. Once that is done place a floor jack with a small block of wood under the harmonic balance and jack up the engine a couple of inches.
     
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  7. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    Ahh. Thanks for the direction. I've never messed with front suspension or steering linkage on any vehicle so this is new territory for me. But, I just picked up a tie rod end removal tool at HB and think this won't be too difficult to pull off.
    I noticed in Saylor's photos it looks like that part. vehicle has dual exhaust. Mine is not so anticipating pulling or at least lowering the u-shaped exhaust piece.
    Is lifting the engine by the HB risky? Don't want to damage that thing. What about just jacking it from the timing chain cover?
    DaveLux outlined this operation pretty well for me as well. There's also an "engine torque converter left housing" part that both Dave and my shop manual mention...The photo I see from Saylor looks like only one bar (draglink?) running underneath the oil pan. I assume it the ETCLH part needs to come out it will be obvious?
     
  8. cbarge

    cbarge World Famous Barge in a Budget FCBO Gold Member

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    boab-november-2017-002-jpg.jpg
    Hope this helps..
     
  9. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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  10. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    Is the idea that once the pitman arm and idler arm bolts are removed from the draglink the assembly will drop down enough to get the pan out or should I remove the two outer tie rod ends from their sockets as well and remove the whole thing?
     
  11. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    I dunno what you know so im just sayin, you prob ought to let the tension out of the torsion bars before you do much of anything to the front suspension. and get a puller tool if you even think you might need to pull them.

    try not to die -

    - saylor
     
  12. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    ‘68 Polara 383 single exhaust.
    You will need to drop your single exhaust Y pipe from your exhaust manifold and the steering cross link from the pitman arm and link for clearance.
    Make sure you soak your exhaust bolts with a good penetrating oil for a few days prior.
    I don’t know that you would need to take off your tie rod ends for clearance.
    AC746368-2676-4CFE-B125-3FCE2B5BBB05.jpeg 679C8680-14FA-4665-85C3-BCA4D7C8E893.jpeg 80752478-46D5-4F75-A5EF-4EA45526C00A.jpeg
     
  13. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    Got it handled. The torsion bar is what you pull out of the tube to check the oil level. I've done that 1000 times.
    Ok, I don't know shit about the front suspension.
    You're freaking me out about the torsion bars. My plan is to remove anything in my way to get the oil pan out: exhaust, the metal bar that goes under the pan from the pitman to the idler- what I assume is the drag link and possibly the tie rod outer ends. Is there a torsion bar under pressure tied into this equation? I certainly don't need a torsion bar lobotomy.
    If there's something that might go boing while i'm using my harbor freight 18 dollar puller tool to get stuff out of my way I just hope it would be obvious.
     
  14. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    those pictures are great. And, your undercarriage looks beautiful. Amazing.
    I'm starting to second guess this whole operation. If it's just a matter of removing bolts and putting parts back together I feel like I can remove my way to the oil pan. But if we've got torsion bars under load that might catapult my chin off my face then I don't know. Am I over-thinking this?
    I just want to yank my oil pan and replace the gasket.
     
  15. cbarge

    cbarge World Famous Barge in a Budget FCBO Gold Member

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    Rosco...ignore the torsion bar suggestion.
    This is a simple operation and allow me to put in in laymans terms for you.
    Note: this is for a big block car
    1. If single exhaust,undo exhaust at manifold flanges.If you break the bolts no biggie,replace them. Let exhaust just hang.
    If dual exhaust leave the pipes attached.
    2.undo center link from idler arm and pitman arm,let it hang.
    3.undo motor mounts.
    4.jack up the motor by the harmonic balancer/pulleys using a block of wood between your jack and balancer.
    5. Remove oil pan.
    If it is a small block do not forget to undo the two front bolts attached to the timing chain cover and reseal the front of cover and oil pan.
    Hope this helps.
     
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  16. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    Hey, thanks amigo! Appreciate the layman's terms explanation. I'm feeling pretty good about the procedure.
    I will be putting in a new timing chain during this session so I will wait on the lower/front bolts until I've got the oil pan replaced and sealed. Thanks for the reminder.
     
  17. Wollfen

    Wollfen Old Man with a Hat

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    If you intend to remove the timing chain and replace it as well, this is another story. You will need to do it as a separate operation to the oil pan, but once you have the oil pan refitted, do not put the front 2 bolts in the pan as they go into the timing cover.
    To get the timing cover off, you will need to removed the fan and the entire water pump housing, meaning you will want to remove the alternator as well since the mount bolts go through that housing. Also the power steering pump is connected to it as well. If you have air conditioning in the car, then the AC pump will have to come out too. THEN remove the harmonic balance before taking off the timing cover.
    Lastly but not least, to make all this easier, you should also remove the radiator too...
     
  18. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    Thanks for the heads up. This has been a long time coming. My car has sat for a bit. I've been busy with kids and work and finally have some time to put into it. I'll be doing a new radiator as well so we'll take the E. one out and climb inside. Good suggestion. You gotta love all the room in these engine bays. I open the hood of my Tundra and all I see is plastic and about a thousand hoses and wires.
    Timing chain, water pump, radiator; all this is familiar territory for me. I plan to do the timing chain first so that I can reinstall the oil pan gaskets onto the bottom of the timing chain cover. And then everything will be running flawlessly for sure:)
     
  19. Rosco

    Rosco Member

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    I'm anticipating a few (lots) of broken bolts. Kroil and a big breaker bar. Fury has sat for at least 5 years before it was ran at all and that was minimal...