Looking for trans part vendor.

[Omni]

Good Day All
With a 1000 mile Carlisle trip completed, it appears that I have a trans leak on the 'Party Barge' - '65 Newport.
The leak appears to be in the kick down linkage area.
Plans call for dropping the pan (new filter/gasket) and o-ring replacements (cable shift) . The leak is not excessive, just annoying.
Any suggestions on vendors for these parts?
Thanks to all who respond.
Omni

 

[Big_John]

This vendor: T'Flite Patty's Shop Mart | eBay Stores

Don't be afraid to contact him for parts not listed. For those following along at home, this is the best guy to get the bits for a "part throttle downshift" conversion. He even includes instructions for the conversion... Which is really handy if you are doing an early cable shift Torqueflite.

 

[mikedrini]

This vendor: T'Flite Patty's Shop Mart | eBay Stores

Don't be afraid to contact him for parts not listed. For those following along at home, this is the best guy to get the bits for a "part throttle downshift" conversion. He even includes instructions for the conversion... Which is really handy if you are doing an early cable shift Torqueflite.

I concur with Big John. I have used Patty multiple times and the guy is 100% class and knows his stuff.

 

[War Wagon2]

Hi
On a '65 Torque flite the annoying little seal you are talking about is still available from Chrysler. (I just ordered a few for my Desoto and my '63 330 ) Part number is 2466548 (changed up from 1732183) They are around $ 4 bucks each. The "O" ring on the shift selector cable I get from my local Auto parts joint (Part of the Auto Sense chain) as they have a major selection of "universal "O" rings. Those two little seals are used a lot which is why I buy them as I do. I usually have a complete reseal set for '62 to '65 (I just used the last one I had on a '64 Dodge) I still have a couple of sets for later Torque flites '66 and up. I purchase all my Trans parts from a place called Trans Tech about 30 miles from home. I try to buy local as much as possible. My point here is there are usually local suppliers that can fill your needs Just look around , make a few calls etc.
I'm not against on line purchases but shipping is getting nuts. Just a note on your Filter
make sure the Dacron filter you buy has two holes on the valve body side as your trans still has a rear pump. I've seen the later ' post '66 single hole filter used in the earlier TorqueFlites this can lead to pump starvation and shift issues above thirty MPH.

 

[Big_John]

On a '65 Torque flite the annoying little seal you are talking about is still available from Chrysler.

It is the same seal used on later Torqueflites. Rather than seal to the valve body shifter "rooster comb", it seals to the case.

#4 in this diagram of a later trans.

 

[D Cluley]

I just replaced the shift cable O-ring on my '65. The size I used was a #10 O-ring, which is OD 11/16" - ID 1/2" and 3/32" thick.
The old one seemed to be wider than this, but not thicker, more of a oval profile rather than round. So the new O-ring is narrower than the groove in the cable housing, but it seems to work.

I do not guarantee long term success, but it has not leaked at all so far.

 

[Omni]

Good Morning
Thank you for the response. It is good to know that Chrysler still produces some replacement parts.
Not sure if I can remove this seal without removing the valve body as access is limited. What I am trying to avoid is dropping the cross member as the service manual recommends torsion bar unloading to reduce the possibility of structural damage.
As always, if anyone has some 'helpful hints' they would be appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Omni

 

[D Cluley]

I have just been doing similar things on my '65. You should not need to drop the whole transmission, which is good, because not only do you have to unload the torsion bars to remove the rear crossmember, but '65 Chryslers have the isolated t-bars, so that cross piece has to come off as well, which requires pulling the bars out of the hex socket at one or both ends.

I suspect that you could remove the seal from the kickdown/throttle shaft from the outside using a pointy pick, but have not done so myself. You would want to be careful not to nick the shaft or the transmission housing.

I do know that you can install the seal with the valve body in place.

If you are already planning to drop the pan, pulling the valve body is pretty easy, and can absolutely be done with the transmission in place. The only part I found tricky, was disconnecting the shift cable, and that is no problem with the pan off. What you need to watch is that you don't dislodge the seal when putting the valve body back. This is how I know it can be installed afterwords.