Looking to raise front end

Rosco

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Front suspension is an area where I know nothing. I'd like to raise the front end of my '68 Fury 4-door. When we go over speed bumps everyone except the driver has to get out of the car or we bottom-out.
I LOVE the soft, swaying boat like handling. Don't want to change that. I've read that you can adjust the torsion bars to raise the front end but as a result the ride is much stiffer. I prefer the soft, don't feel any bump in the road ride.
Has anyone ever put a lift-kit in to gain front end clearance? I'd like to see 2-3 inches higher. Larger wheels? Seems to be 1,000,000 posts about wheels- too much info to sift through. If I go larger wheels what other effect(s) should I be considering (other than raising the car)?
Any suggestions?
PS I would gladly take her to a shop- So Cal is the closest area. Any recommendations?
 

Fury Man Van

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Check out Uncle Tony's Guarge on U tube he has a segment on this very subject (sorry I don't have a link)
 

polara71

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If you are bottoming out then there is a problem. Control arm bushings are likely shot ( upper and lowers) along with ball joints and shock absorbers. Replacing one of the three will not help much. Rebuild the front suspension, stock parts are fine, with an alignment.
Of course, if your leaf springs are sagging, those need to be replaced too .
 
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Rosco

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Awesome!! Thanks for the link- I will watch later today (busy day...).

I agree that probably most of my front end bushings etc. need replacing. BUT, it's more of a clearance issue. EG we bottom out going 1 mph. The long wheel base and some of the extreme speed bumps I run into don't match.

IF/when I change out those parts should I expect more clearance as a result?
 

Rosco

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I see no reason why the suspension should be stiffer when adjusting the ride height.
I had read that adjusting the torsion bars to gain height would stiffen the ride. Makes sense as you would be tightening the spring action of the torsion bar. But, I cannot speak to this as I've never done it.
I'm looking for another solution to gain clearance and I don't want to stiffen up the ride
 

polara71

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My thought/point is it was good when the car was built, why not now? What changed? Speed bumps, RR tracks, drainage dips in the road were all there in 1970 and the problem in your car likely didn't exist.
By replacing the above mentioned parts the suspension will be more rigid.
 

440Chrysler

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I had read that adjusting the torsion bars to gain height would stiffen the ride. Makes sense as you would be tightening the spring action of the torsion bar. But, I cannot speak to this as I've never done it.
I'm looking for another solution to gain clearance and I don't want to stiffen up the ride

By tightening the torsion bar adjuster, you are changing the engagement position of your lower control arms. The spring rate does not change at all. the only way you'll be changing the spring rate is by changing the torsion bar or adding adjustment and then using a limiting strap to limit suspension travel.
 

BigblueC

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I had read that adjusting the torsion bars to gain height would stiffen the ride. Makes sense as you would be tightening the spring action of the torsion bar.

This is wrong. @440Chrysler has it spot on.

Two questions for you @Rosco 1) what size tires or you running? And 2) have you or anyone actually examined the suspension for wear? I'm guessing that you have some worn out parts in need of replacement.
 

Rosco

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My thought/point is it was good when the car was built, why not now? What changed? Speed bumps, RR tracks, drainage dips in the road were all there in 1970 and the problem in your car likely didn't exist.
By replacing the above mentioned parts the suspension will be more rigid.

rigid and clearance? I agree- all that stuff you mentioned should be replaced. And, will do. Still looking for a way to raise the front end a touch (2-3 inches).
My car lives down in Mexico. They have tons of speed bumps just like we do and they also have a LOT of them that are like what they call in my area "speed humps" but down there they're just as high as a large speed bump. The tops are all scraped up from the 1000's of cars that bottom out on them. I think the wheel base of my car doesn't help. Who knows who/how those things are engineered down there...
 

Rosco

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How bout a pic of how she sits now.
This is the best I can do. Haven't photo'd the car in a while as I'm in the process of a sort of restoration. Tons of photos of the engine area.

IMG_2861.JPG
 

Rosco

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This is wrong. @440Chrysler has it spot on.

Two questions for you @Rosco 1) what size tires or you running? And 2) have you or anyone actually examined the suspension for wear? I'm guessing that you have some worn out parts in need of replacement.
1/I've never changed the tire size in my life- always rolled with what was on there to begin with. I can guarantee= stock/oem size.
2/No one has examined the suspension components. I'm sure they need attention. But I don't think that replacing bushings, tie rods, etc. will give me the clearance I want (need). Could I expect some gain in height after doing those things?
What about going with a bigger wheel?
 

Rosco

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By tightening the torsion bar adjuster, you are changing the engagement position of your lower control arms. The spring rate does not change at all. the only way you'll be changing the spring rate is by changing the torsion bar or adding adjustment and then using a limiting strap to limit suspension travel.
good to know. This is where I'll start. I may want even more height than the torsion bar adjuster can offer.
 

440Chrysler

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good to know. This is where I'll start. I may want even more height than the torsion bar adjuster can offer.

You should be able to gain an inch to an inch and a half of height by maxing out adjustment.

If you want a drastic in height (3+ inches) pull the torsion bar and clock the lower control arm one hex position lower. I do not recommend this as the ball joints, tie rods, and sway bay are not designed to run that high.

Another option would be to make a torsion bar key with a slightly different position to get that extra inch of height you're looking for. Besides that, making a spindle with a lower spud is an option, but very expensive.

If you want to increase the ride height in the rear to keep up with the front height increase, you can make taller rear leaf spring shackles.

Keep in mind, the higher you raise the car, the taller the shock you need to install.

Just promise us that you won't go as far as dropping the body on a suburban chassis so you can make a pre-runner:

Prerunner LTD.PNG
 

Rosco

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You should be able to gain an inch to an inch and a half of height by maxing out adjustment.

If you want a drastic in height (3+ inches) pull the torsion bar and clock the lower control arm one hex position lower. I do not recommend this as the ball joints, tie rods, and sway bay are not designed to run that high.

Another option would be to make a torsion bar key with a slightly different position to get that extra inch of height you're looking for. Besides that, making a spindle with a lower spud is an option, but very expensive.

If you want to increase the ride height in the rear to keep up with the front height increase, you can make taller rear leaf spring shackles.

Keep in mind, the higher you raise the car, the taller the shock you need to install.

Just promise us that you won't go as far as dropping the body on a suburban chassis so you can make a pre-runner:

View attachment 462618
wow!! That is hilarious!!!
Someone has a great sense of humor and a big pocket book.

This is good info. What do you mean by "make a torsion bar key" and "making a spindle with a lower spud is an option"?
 
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