Making a big car fast......the struggle is real.

Darrell

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Time for a project "street beast" update. I scored a 74 440 with transmission for $300. Just under 90,000 and it runs good, doesn't burn oil but sure did leak enough. Even better it is a 440-3 from a motorhome and better than that it has 452 casting heads and not those weird typical motor home heads. The trans is useless but I'm going to pull the 24 spline input out and convert my 19 spline 65 only transmission so I can keep my factory console and shifter but still run a high stall converter. I did buy a TCI 2400 stall 19 spline converter from 70BigBlockDodge but I changed plans and need something a bit looser so I think my only option is to convert to 24 spline.

Now the good stuff. Trick Flow just started producing heads for big block mopars. These things flow like monsters from what I've gathered from some independent tests. I ordered a set black friday. Merry Christmas to me! I also bought a Victor intake and Holley 1000HP. I need some little stuff yet and a cam and lifters but things are coming along. My goal is to get this pig in the 10s with basically a junkyard short block and daily drive it when the snow melts. We are taking a complete route 66 trip this summer in this car.

Since the engine and trans is out of the car I've been tackling all of the safety parts as well. New ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. I'm having some issues with lower ball joints but I made a different thread for that. I also converted to manual steering to shave about 30 or so pounds off the front and clean things up a bit. The original 50 year old power box was leaking out of every orifice.

By the looks of things the headers are going to fit. I scored them off of ebay for $250 brand new. Hooker 5903-1HKR ceramic coated. Years ago there were listed as a C-body header but they are not anymore. Preliminary testing looks like they will fit. The Milodon oil pan looks too like it will fit with no clearance issues at all. I have read that the oil pans are another "65 only" issue and interfere with the idler arm. In my car I can't see how this would be an issue.

I'll keep updating as things go. I've got a lot of work to do.
 
Darrell don't toss the rest of the trans they usually have 4 pinion gear sets and the pump is the more desirable 71 pump support with the wider bushing matter of fact I would just use your case and VB, tail shaft housing, and mainshaft. Being a 74 it may have a "hemi" style drum/ 5 disc clutch, all good stuff to use or send to me. ;) Keep us posted.
 
Darrell don't toss the rest of the trans they usually have 4 pinion gear sets and the pump is the more desirable 71 pump support with the wider bushing matter of fact I would just use your case and VB, tail shaft housing, and mainshaft. Being a 74 it may have a "hemi" style drum/ 5 disc clutch, all good stuff to use or send to me. ;) Keep us posted.

Agreed on this... swap the motorhome transmssion driveline into your case with your VB. Also the "weird motorhome heads" (assuming they're not the 413-style heads with extra coolant ports) are desirable to people looking for iron heads because there's more cooling around the spark plug fitting. If I had mine to build again, I wouldn't even look at 452 heads this time. Open chambers with marginal plug area cooling- they're pretty much detonation machines. Aluminum closed-chamber heads for me next time. I know nothing about the TrickFlow heads, but they do mostly bowtie pieces- I'd want a bit of track record on anything they come out with for Mopar.
 
Darell, I just had my 727 trans rebuilt with a shift kit added to handle the 500+hp I'm making out of the 440. My engine guy recommended a 3000-3200 stall and I'm glad he did. It helps get my 67 Fury III off the line and get the most out of my 3.23 gears.
 
Darell, I just had my 727 trans rebuilt with a shift kit added to handle the 500+hp I'm making out of the 440. My engine guy recommended a 3000-3200 stall and I'm glad he did. It helps get my 67 Fury III off the line and get the most out of my 3.23 gears.
Thats good to know I have been going back and forth on a converter, the one I sold to Darrell was low 2000s I have been leaning more toward 2800-3000 in my Challenger with warmed 400 and 3.23. F*&% it I am putting a 10" in it I have to get my 60' down.
 
Not trying to rain on your parade but unless you can carve 1000 lbs off that New Yorker I don't see 10's, junkyard 440 and streetable in your future any time soon.

If your current weight is 4700 lbs +/-, it will take 850 HP to do the deed. Not impossible by any stretch but if you are talking stock stroke then you are going to need a turbo or 2 if it is going to have any street manners at all.

3700 lbs takes 650 HP. Much more doable NA but I'd still be looking at a 4.25" stroker so it can be done on buy anywhere gas and road trip friendly gears.

Kevin
 
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Not trying to rain on your parade but unless you can carve 1000 lbs off that New Yorker I don't see 10's, junkyard 440 and streetable in your future any time soon.

If your current weight is 4700 lbs +/-, it will take 850 HP to do the deed. Not impossible by any stretch but if you are talking stock stroke then you are going to need a turbo or 2 if it is going to have any street manners at all.

3700 lbs takes 650 HP. Much more doable NA but I'd still be looking at a 4.25" stroker so it can be done on buy anywhere gas and road trip friendly gears.

Kevin


This car doesn't weigh 4700 pounds....maybe 4000 with me in it. I have a set of intercomp scales and I will scale it in the next couple months. I've been drag racing fast **** for 20+ years. I know what it takes to go fast and also know that the calculators aren't always correct because they have no input for efficiency. Look at any NMRA class car for example. Those cars are going way faster than what the formula says they should....and I used to race one of those cars. I had a Mustang that went 9.30s naturally aspirated that was my daily driver and I drove everywhere with it. They said it couldn't be done and I proved them wrong. If all else fails I'll throw a bottle in the trunk of this bad boy. Either way it is going to be a fun, comfortable car.......that has style unlike the tin can **** on the road today.
 
Interesting build for sure! What do you figure the CR will be with the motor home bottom end and TF 78 cc chambers?
There is a member here that did a low CR buildup, I think on Moparts, maybe he will chime in, or do a search over there.
Be sure to update us with pics!!
 
Interesting build for sure! What do you figure the CR will be with the motor home bottom end and TF 78 cc chambers?
There is a member here that did a low CR buildup, I think on Moparts, maybe he will chime in, or do a search over there.
Be sure to update us with pics!!

I have to wait until I pull the heads off so I can measure and accurately calculate it. I might mill the heads a bit to bump it up if I have to.
 
Those TF heads are going to be a game changer at that price point. I am going to order a set as well once a few are out and running.
I am also shooting for 10's, I have so many other things to do yet in addition to the engine, tie subframes,upgrade rear end, modify fuel system.
Post some pics of your rear end setup,325s are huge, it would be good inspiration!
 
Those TF heads are going to be a game changer at that price point. I am going to order a set as well once a few are out and running.
I am also shooting for 10's, I have so many other things to do yet in addition to the engine, tie subframes,upgrade rear end, modify fuel system.
Post some pics of your rear end setup,325s are huge, it would be good inspiration!

Pretty easy install if you have mechanical ability, can do basic math and weld. And I mean weld good, not just be able to run a bead. There is alot of stress on these parts so the weld has to penetrate and be strong.

A properly done ladder bar set up rides great. This car has an equivalent or better ride than the factory leaf set up. The only thing I'm going to change is a polyurethane front ladder bar end. I'm only doing this because I drive the **** out of this car and I want something that is more durable on the street that can handle 10,000+ miles a year of road debris, rain, mud, etc.

Please disregard the awesome glass packs on the car in the pictures. They were on the car when I bought it and they have since been removed.


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Just to clear the air with Trick Flow heads and things like "they do mostly bowtie".....Trick Flow is owned by Summit Racing who also owns Total Engine Airflow. Trick Flow does some heavy R&D work. Its irrelevant that this is their first big block Mopar head. It will perform and I guarantee it has spent a long time in development and testing. I know for a fact that they have made over 600hp on amild pump gas 440 with these heads. They have also reconfigured the rocker shaft oiling which allowed for larger, more efficient ports. In the past during my Mustang racing days I have done alot of business with Trick Flow and never had a complaint. I made 742 horsepower with a small block and Trick Flow heads. That car went 9.30s naturally aspirated and it was a 100% daily driver (power windows and locks too!) in the summer. Trick Flow makes power. For those that must wait for proof, my car will back up what I've said about Trick Flow.



Agreed on this... swap the motorhome transmssion driveline into your case with your VB. Also the "weird motorhome heads" (assuming they're not the 413-style heads with extra coolant ports) are desirable to people looking for iron heads because there's more cooling around the spark plug fitting. If I had mine to build again, I wouldn't even look at 452 heads this time. Open chambers with marginal plug area cooling- they're pretty much detonation machines. Aluminum closed-chamber heads for me next time. I know nothing about the TrickFlow heads, but they do mostly bowtie pieces- I'd want a bit of track record on anything they come out with for Mopar.
 
Just to clear the air with Trick Flow heads and things like "they do mostly bowtie".....Trick Flow is owned by Summit Racing who also owns Total Engine Airflow. Trick Flow does some heavy R&D work. Its irrelevant that this is their first big block Mopar head.

Didn't mean to come off as dissing on Trick Flow... but I stand by my desire for wanting to see proof that they're any better than other offerings, especially long-term Mopar development houses that thoroughly understand the BB Mopar architecture in every detail- places like Indy & Edelbrock. If your car is the proof, then awesome. Everyone can fall short on their first foray into a new product line.
 
Just to clear the air with Trick Flow heads and things like "they do mostly bowtie".....Trick Flow is owned by Summit Racing who also owns Total Engine Airflow. Trick Flow does some heavy R&D work. Its irrelevant that this is their first big block Mopar head. It will perform and I guarantee it has spent a long time in development and testing. I know for a fact that they have made over 600hp on amild pump gas 440 with these heads. They have also reconfigured the rocker shaft oiling which allowed for larger, more efficient ports. In the past during my Mustang racing days I have done alot of business with Trick Flow and never had a complaint. I made 742 horsepower with a small block and Trick Flow heads. That car went 9.30s naturally aspirated and it was a 100% daily driver (power windows and locks too!) in the summer. Trick Flow makes power. For those that must wait for proof, my car will back up what I've said about Trick Flow.


have 195 trick flows on my 91 gmc....good heads...was just a matter of time before they made for mopar
 
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