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How is it that some of the freeze plugs can look so bad and yet you indicate the coolant passages were in "excellent condition". Whenever I have removed such freeze plugs the passages are filled with plenty of sediment? This is an interesting finding.....................
thre is something u can put in the cooling system after u get it flushed out (if u plan to do thar )its call water glass its what chrysler use to use on the green 318 locks@ the dealer ship if they got a rusty block i think thy used a acid to eat the rust out then to seal it so it does not rust any more they put in the water glass i dont remember what the active ingredient was but it would stiop the "freeze/casting "plugs from rusting out just though u msay lik to know
 
thre is something u can put in the cooling system after u get it flushed out (if u plan to do thar )its call water glass its what chrysler use to use on the green 318 locks@ the dealer ship if they got a rusty block i think thy used a acid to eat the rust out then to seal it so it does not rust any more they put in the water glass i dont remember what the active ingredient was but it would stiop the "freeze/casting "plugs from rusting out just though u msay lik to know
u r welcomed
 
thre is something u can put in the cooling system after u get it flushed out (if u plan to do thar )its call water glass its what chrysler use to use on the green 318 locks@ the dealer ship if they got a rusty block i think thy used a acid to eat the rust out then to seal it so it does not rust any more they put in the water glass i dont remember what the active ingredient was but it would stiop the "freeze/casting "plugs from rusting out just though u msay lik to know

How to Use a Liquid Glass Cooling System Sealer
 
I am not a chemist but I sometimes know something about something.

Sodium silicate is what was used to seize the engines in the cash-for-clunkers program.

From that article:
Cooling system sealers such as liquid glass can often temporarily stop a leak until repaired properly. Liquid glass refers to sodium silicate, which creates a glass-like coating internal to the cooling system to repair leaks.

Note the words glass-like and temporary.
Requirements of such a sealer:
If it is to provide a coating on the metallic surfaces, it must adhere to 'dirty' surfaces of cast iron, aluminum, steel/brass (core plugs), and copper/brass (radiators and heater cores).
If a coating, it must adhere under all the varying coefficients of expansion of all the metals (and coatings) in the system.
It cannot dislodge anywhere, lest it risk causing a clog, nor even simply permit coolant to wick between it and the metal surface (which defeats the whole purpose).
It must not be affected by, or have an adverse reaction with, any of the various materials used for sealing (head gaskets, paper T-stat gasket, water pump seal hoses, solders, etc) nor the coolant chemistry.
It cannot adversely modify the heat-transfer characteristics of the crucial areas (tops of cylinders, cylinder heads, radiator and heater core.
It apparently professes to be effective in spite of the wide range of materials in modern cars vs classic cars.
And probably some other stuff, too.

I am therefore a bit skeptical for how well such a product would work across-the-board.

Ignoring teh potential for new freeze plugs to be made out of crap metal that corrodes easily, I would say for most of us that R&R of plugs and coolant will be a sufficiently long-lasting repair.
 
I am not a chemist but I sometimes know something about something.

Sodium silicate is what was used to seize the engines in the cash-for-clunkers program.

From that article:
Cooling system sealers such as liquid glass can often temporarily stop a leak until repaired properly. Liquid glass refers to sodium silicate, which creates a glass-like coating internal to the cooling system to repair leaks.

Note the words glass-like and temporary.
Requirements of such a sealer:
If it is to provide a coating on the metallic surfaces, it must adhere to 'dirty' surfaces of cast iron, aluminum, steel/brass (core plugs), and copper/brass (radiators and heater cores).
If a coating, it must adhere under all the varying coefficients of expansion of all the metals (and coatings) in the system.
It cannot dislodge anywhere, lest it risk causing a clog, nor even simply permit coolant to wick between it and the metal surface (which defeats the whole purpose).
It must not be affected by, or have an adverse reaction with, any of the various materials used for sealing (head gaskets, paper T-stat gasket, water pump seal hoses, solders, etc) nor the coolant chemistry.
It cannot adversely modify the heat-transfer characteristics of the crucial areas (tops of cylinders, cylinder heads, radiator and heater core.
It apparently professes to be effective in spite of the wide range of materials in modern cars vs classic cars.
And probably some other stuff, too.

I am therefore a bit skeptical for how well such a product would work across-the-board.

Ignoring teh potential for new freeze plugs to be made out of crap metal that corrodes easily, I would say for most of us that R&R of plugs and coolant will be a sufficiently long-lasting repair.
yes if u fill the cooling system completely with it . but its a small additive u mix e\with the antifreeze i hve used i alont on 138 ,400&440 that had a rust problem it stoped the rusting issue i have degrees in chemistry many yrs ago
 
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