Mopar Intake Manifold Insulation

[SF-66TC]

So I decided to opt for the "Intake Manifold Silencer Insulation Kit" from Performance Car Graphics. I don’t know what the original OEM pieces looked like, but in real life what was delivered does NOT resemble the photo.

Big Block Intake Manifold Insulation Dodge Plymouth Mopar

Like what many of you have done, my pops just used home insulation wrapped in tin foil. I was going to go the same route, but was curious to see what PCG advertised. IMO their advertisement (photo) is very misleading than what actually was delivered. I know the photo is probably from the FSM, but for the price I thought it would at least be close to the original. I suppose it was a waste of $37.50 when a home made version would have only cost a couple dollars, but I’d rather say I bit the bullet for the team to fulfill the curious LOL!

Anyway, if you want to duplicate this all you will need is some REAL HEAVY DUTY FOIL. I'd say the foil is about as thick as the foil tape used to wrap home heater ducts.

The two pieces measure 12” & 10” in length total including the ends. Subtract 1" from each end thus making them 10” and 8” in length. Width measures 6". Thickness is about 1-1/2” as pictured.

View attachment 218249

 

[CBODY67]

All any of my 383s had was just ONE packet, like the shorter one. One had its foil "compromised" to reveal the yellow fiberglass internals. Others were more "wadded up" before the manifold was installed. I even ordered a new one while we could still get it. Nothing spectacular! A little duller/satin finish than those pictured. Be that as it may.

I'm thinking now, after a good bit of consideration, that it might be best to use a cast aluminum plate to cover the lifter valley and the paper 440+6 additional intake gasket pieces, (or a separate beaded gasket as small block Chevy's use) rather than the normal breast-plate gasket. With NO insulator, ala Performer RPM manifolds.

What I'd read about the "insulators" is that they dampened harmonic vibrations in the breast plate gasket to keep it from cracking out. Probably one reason the beads are also in it, I suspect.

CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

The other reason for the insulation was to dampen valve train noise. An old farmer's solution, if this is not a high point show car is to install the valley and manifold and spray the cavity underneath with "Great Stuff" or similar home aerosol insulation. If you want to get really clever, you can create a heavy tinfoil pocket for the cavity and punch a hole in the ends of it to filler-up with the foam.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

There's also a version that's rated for "fire proof" that's for hole gaps where wiring goes through walls. Might that be better for the heat? Just curious.

CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

There's also a version that's rated for "fire proof" that's for hole gaps where wiring goes through walls. Might that be better for the heat? Just curious.

CBODY67

Spray foam insulation for home use is required to not support combustion. In other words you could take a propane torch and get a flame from the material but the flame goes out as soon as the torch is removed. The Fire Proof material is supposed to have the same burn thru protection as the sheet rock if applied correctly. Do not know if continuous exposure to engine operating temps would eventually degrade the materials.

Dave

 

[65 500]

...or you could just leave it out and not worry about it, and spend the time/money on something that is useful.

 

[rexus31]

When I disassembled the 383 from my '65, the original insulation was in place and there were two pieces; a larger one and a smaller one. I can't remember where I purchased the replacements but they were exact replacements and looked just like the ones you received.

 

[owen martin]

F

Well thanks for the info guys as I’m trying to restore my 67 Monaco 500 383 2bbl and am going to install a 4 bl I take n edelbrock carb (2 of what yet I dunno) and want to purchase these tinfoil insulators, but where may I ask?