MOTOR WONT TURN OVER

[DDR2467]

So I still have yet to hear my motor turn over never mind purr. After unsiezing it I had thought my battery was too far gone to turn over my motor so I purchased a brand new 24 series battery... hooked it up, went to start it and to my dismay the same result as with the "bad" battery I replaced. Starter "clicks" b ut nothing else... no attempt to move any part of the motor... just silence. What do I do next? Lights are full bright with only a slight "dim" when I go to start the motor. very frustrated that I cannot figure this out.... thanks in advance!!!

 

[Davea Lux]

You may have a bad starter relay with corroded points. Try jumping the two big wires on the relay together to see if it will turn over. If it still will not turn over, odds are the starter is bad. Starter relay on your vehicle is just above the brake booster. Be sure all connections to the relay are tight and free from corrosion. If the car turns over using this method, the starter is ok and the problem lies in the wiring elsewhere. Check the fusible link, firewall plug and the ignition switch. Cars that sit long enough to stick the engine often have corrosion issues elsewhere. Be sure the negative terminal where it connects to the block is free from corrosion and tight. Note your coil wire to the distributor is disconnected. Looks like the car had a dealer add on A/C unit with a York compressor at some point.

Dave

 

[Big_John]

After unsiezing it

This needs to be explained.

 

[Davea Lux]

This needs to be explained.

Engine was stuck from sitting, they put marvel mystery oil in it and it came free. There is a previous post on this.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

Might also want to check with a breaker bar to be sure the engine is not still stuck, if there is a rough spot on the bore they will sometimes come free and then stick on the next revolution of the engine.

Dave

 

[DDR2467]

So I just went out and did the "jumper" thing. SAME result as when I turn the key to "start" the vehicle.... starter "clicks" but thats the extent of it. The "click" from the starter is loud and very strong but there is no movement from the motor. As far and the engine still being seized... for 1 solid week I have jumped down into my pit, put a wrench on the crankshaft nut, and been able to (with a bit of resistance but definitely "unstuck") rotate the crankshaft a few 360 degree turns every day. Every day I have been adding MMO to the cylinders. Like I said... a bit of resistance but free and smooth.

 

[DDR2467]

You may have a bad starter relay with corroded points. Try jumping the two big wires on the relay together to see if it will turn over. If it still will not turn over, odds are the starter is bad. Starter relay on your vehicle is just above the brake booster. Be sure all connections to the relay are tight and free from corrosion. If the car turns over using this method, the starter is ok and the problem lies in the wiring elsewhere. Check the fusible link, firewall plug and the ignition switch. Cars that sit long enough to stick the engine often have corrosion issues elsewhere. Be sure the negative terminal where it connects to the block is free from corrosion and tight. Note your coil wire to the distributor is disconnected. Looks like the car had a dealer add on A/C unit with a York compressor at some point.

Dave

Hey Dave.... thanks for the info. why do you think it may have had a dealer add on A/C unit? The interior dash does not have the A/C vents or an other indication of an A/C unit.... curious.

 

[Davea Lux]

So I just went out and did the "jumper" thing. SAME result as when I turn the key to "start" the vehicle.... starter "clicks" but thats the extent of it. The "click" from the starter is loud and very strong but there is no movement from the motor. As far and the engine still being seized... for 1 solid week I have jumped down into my pit, put a wrench on the crankshaft nut, and been able to (with a bit of resistance but definitely "unstuck") rotate the crankshaft a few 360 degree turns every day. Every day I have been adding MMO to the cylinders. Like I said... a bit of resistance but free and smooth.

The motor part of the starter is bad, you will probably need to replace it. May have a bunch of blue corrosion on the area where the brushes are supposed to contact (commutator) or maybe that was why somebody parked the car to start with, bad starter.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

Hey Dave.... thanks for the info. why do you think it may have had a dealer add on A/C unit? The interior dash does not have the A/C vents or an other indication of an A/C unit.... curious.

The square mounting plate with four holes on the top of the intake looks to be a York compressor mount. The after market A/C was an under dash mount that did not use the factory A/C vents.

Dave

 

[MoPar Maniac]

If you have been pouring oil into the cylinders you need to spin the engine without the spark plugs. Oil doesn't burn so well. Worst case scenario you hydrolock a cylinder and bend a rod.

 

[DDR2467]

If you have been pouring oil into the cylinders you need to spin the engine without the spark plugs. Oil doesn't burn so well. Worst case scenario you hydrolock a cylinder and bend a rod.

Im confused.... I thought the only way to get oil/MMO into the cylinders was to remove the spark plugs..... which is what I did. I do not believe its hydrolocked because like I stated I can turn the engine via the crankshaft nut. I understand oil doesn't "burn well" but I am not trying to start the motor... I am simply trying to turn the motor over. Maybe I am misunderstanding something? LMK

 

[Davea Lux]

Im confused.... I thought the only way to get oil/MMO into the cylinders was to remove the spark plugs..... which is what I did. I do not believe its hydrolocked because like I stated I can turn the engine via the crankshaft nut. I understand oil doesn't "burn well" but I am not trying to start the motor... I am simply trying to turn the motor over. Maybe I am misunderstanding something? LMK

If you can turn it two full revolutions by hand, it is not hydro locked. When you get the starter working, use the starter with plugs out of the engine to expel as much oil as you can. A bunch of the MMO has probably leaked past the rings, so change the oil and filter prior to attempting a start.

Dave

 

[MoPar Maniac]

Ahem...I assume you are attempting to start the engine? If so I hope you put the plugs back in!
Got a decent battery charger? Pull the starter and touch the wires to the terminals. That should spin it If its good. Or use jumper cables from the battery.
If it spins you have problems elsewhere.

 

[DDR2467]

If you can turn it two full revolutions by hand, it is not hydro locked. When you get the starter working, use the starter with plugs out of the engine to expel as much oil as you can. A bunch of the MMO has probably leaked past the rings, so change the oil and filter prior to attempting a start.

Dave

Exactly what I was thinking at this point.... would like to stay "original" so I think id just like to purchase a new starter (best idea?)...... where is the best place to get an OEM "stock" starter if you agree with just "starting new" or what other HD starter would you recommend? Thanks so much Dave for keeping up with me on this thread. Just want to make progress with this vehicle....

 

[DDR2467]

Ahem...I assume you are attempting to start the engine? If so I hope you put the plugs back in!
Got a decent battery charger? Pull the starter and touch the wires to the terminals. That should spin it If its good. Or use jumper cables from the battery.
If it spins you have problems elsewhere.

Not trying to start the engine.... trying to get it to spin to expel the crap oil and MMO thats in the cylinders. Instead of trying to turn the crankshaft nut at 500 rpm (ha!) I figured id try to "turn it over" via ignition or relay bypass... like I stated, I removed the plugs and added oil... I do not believe I need the plugs in to "turn it over".... I am a rookie so please correct me if I am wrong... I have zero problems with learning.

 

[Davea Lux]

Exactly what I was thinking at this point.... would like to stay "original" so I think id just like to purchase a new starter (best idea?)...... where is the best place to get an OEM "stock" starter if you agree with just "starting new" or what other HD starter would you recommend? Thanks so much Dave for keeping up with me on this thread. Just want to make progress with this vehicle....

I would suggest that you remove the old starter and take it to an old line automotive electrical rebuilder to have it repaired. Most of the junk at AutoBone and Car Crap is just that junk. Their stuff is sent overseas and the returned parts usually do not hold up.

Dave

 

[DDR2467]

I would suggest that you remove the old starter and take it to an old line automotive electrical rebuilder to have it repaired. Most of the junk at AutoBone and Car Crap is just that junk. Their stuff is sent overseas and the returned parts usually do not hold up.

Dave

Cant I just purchase a "new" starter that will be OEM and install it?

 

[MoPar Maniac]

Okay. Understood, you are doing as I suggested. I must have missed something.My apologies.
Before you stare spending money verify the starter is bad. It costs nothing.

 

[71Polara383]

Cant I just purchase a "new" starter that will be OEM and install it?

If you go the new route...I highly recommend a mini starter with the proper adapter terminals. More reliable. Spins the engine over faster resulting with instantaneous start ups and lastly they draw less on the battery when cranking... They are readily available and not too expensive.

Or Like Dave said...get the original rebuilt by a reputable place.

Either way should do the trick.

 

[thrashingcows]

I have been running junkyard mini starter for 15+ years and would never have an old OEM style starter ever again. You can get a junkyard starter off any magnum motor V6 or V8 for under $50...I usually pay about $25 from the pic-n-pull.