Need electrical part for 1978 chrysler New Yorker
- Thread starter Fred A
- Start date
thethee
Senior Member
Fairly certain this is the EGR time delay control, p/n 3874300
"Leaked" as in the potting compound sealing the circuit board leaked out? In that case, the "leak" probably will not affect its function in the short term, I suspect.
Welcome aboard,
CBODY67
If the item is the EGR timer, it relates to the emission system. Don't specifically recall what its specific function might be, but if the EGR system is inoperative, for whatever reason, then its function would be minimized, I suspect. Might find more information on what it might do in the Chrysler MasterTech videos at www.mymopar.com, in the "What's New for 1978" sort of video course or one related to 1978 (or similar) emissions system upgrades.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
thethee
Senior Member
Specific function is to prevent EGR from engaging during first ~35 seconds after start up if I'm not mistaken.
thethee
Senior Member
If it's the time delay it's not needed for the car to run
So the thermal vacuum switch (which opens after the coolant reaches a certain temperature) that runs the EGR vacuum was deleted? EGR is normally closed at base idle anyway. One more trick to get the emissions levels produced "to pass".
Enjoy!
CBODY67
thethee
Senior Member
To make it inoperative you would need to pull the EGR valve, put in a block off plate, and re-mount EGR valve. In my case I simply removed everything emissions related as that was the source of a couple vacuum leaks. Also looks a lot cleaner IMO.
thethee
Senior Member
thethee
Senior Member
Sorry, can't help you with that as I'm in Europe.. But it really isn't that hard, undo two nuts and put in some thin sheet metal and put the valve back on.
vlodarty
Member
The simple way is to remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and block the hose with a tight screw inside
The EGR valve will not open even if the controller still works
Put the hose back on and it all looks stock
The EGR valve will not open even if the controller still works
Put the hose back on and it all looks stock
EGR and the related components do not need to be active for the car to run. Modern blended fuels usually cause severe carbon build up on the seat for the EGR valve to where it would not cycle and close properly. If the EGR valve is stuck open, the car will run poorly but should still start. If it won't start at all, check to be sure the vehicle is getting fuel to the carb, gas tank might be full of sludge from extended sitting. Once you are sure that you have fuel, pull the coil wire from the distributor and place the end about 1/8" from a good ground to see if you have spark. A lot of these cars wound up being parked because the lean burn system was troublesome and prone to repeated failure and folks got tired of trying to fix them.
Dave
Dave
Last edited:
What are best spark plugs to use?
The car came with Champions in it from Chrysler. In our 383s, I never had any problems with them. But that was when Champion was still Champion. The company has been sold a time or two since the middle 1970s. What ever the spec is in the owners manual or FSM, the new ones are all copper core, hence the "C" at the end of the heat range designation. The "R" in front of the heat range designation means it has a resistor core for less spark plug "noise" in the radio.
An equivalent heat range is Motorcraft worked great for me in our GM motors, lasted much longer than the ACDelco plugs did, between gappings. Then I went to NGK V-Power and they worked better.
BUT the main issue you need to determine is how much you are going to drive the car each year. The old Champions would go between 12-15K miles between gappings. The Motorcrafts were similar. This was with the normal-style plugs. Double Platinum will go at least 50K between gappings, with the fine-wire Iridiums lasting much longer.
In one respect, you can spend the money on Iridium NGKs and forget about changing spark plugs for a very long time. Or spend less and look at them more often, while spending less for plugs. I know the difficulty in dealing with a B/RB motor in a C-body chassis, much less a B-body, so not having to "go there" very often can be a plus. Just depends on what you want to pay for.
If you drive occasionally, in one respect, do you want to spend $10.00/plug or $3.00/plug on a car which just needs to start reliably and drive around in? Where a normal spark plug might last 3-4 years. Your money, your car, your determination.
Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67
An equivalent heat range is Motorcraft worked great for me in our GM motors, lasted much longer than the ACDelco plugs did, between gappings. Then I went to NGK V-Power and they worked better.
BUT the main issue you need to determine is how much you are going to drive the car each year. The old Champions would go between 12-15K miles between gappings. The Motorcrafts were similar. This was with the normal-style plugs. Double Platinum will go at least 50K between gappings, with the fine-wire Iridiums lasting much longer.
In one respect, you can spend the money on Iridium NGKs and forget about changing spark plugs for a very long time. Or spend less and look at them more often, while spending less for plugs. I know the difficulty in dealing with a B/RB motor in a C-body chassis, much less a B-body, so not having to "go there" very often can be a plus. Just depends on what you want to pay for.
If you drive occasionally, in one respect, do you want to spend $10.00/plug or $3.00/plug on a car which just needs to start reliably and drive around in? Where a normal spark plug might last 3-4 years. Your money, your car, your determination.
Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67
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