Need Help!!! 72' Newport

Snotty

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I thought I remember in one of those you tube old school tech film strips that it was standard on all Chrysler’s? In 72?
I've always thought is was standardized in '73. Not everything said on a YouTube strip, or written in a website, it correct.
 

DasBoot70

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Little update. So far so good. She’s been getting me to and from work with a couple hiccups with the choke acting up. Found out the vacuum advance doesn’t work due to it leaking air. Purchased some goodies for her Msd dizzy and wires lokar setup. Carb and intake I have on the shelf. Once this weather breaks I’ll get to wrenching. My morning ride into work
 

DasBoot70

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Back the drawing boards for the Newport. She’s been doing great since my last post until this morning.

she died on me while on my way to work. She will fire and die but if I hold the key to start and drops it into drive while still holding the key I can drive it. How I ended up making it to work. Very weird.
 

DasBoot70

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I switched intakes and put a new demon and and went with Msd ready to run dizzy.
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DasBoot70

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The ballast resistor has been deleted per Msd instructions.

currently stuck at work and I’m looking for some info for when my shift is over to check.
 

Big_John

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That's a classic ballast resistor failure, but since you don't have that, it's something in the ignition 2 wiring. That's the 12 volts to the ignition after you release the key from the "start" position.

To get you home, run a jumper wire from a 12 volt source to where the new ignition is picking up the ignition 2, probably at the + side of the coil, but I'm not familiar how you've wired the MSD distributor.
 

Big_John

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Just looked at the instruction sheet for the MSD distributor and if you wired it per their procedure, then running a 12 volt wire to the + side of the coil will power up the ignition and get you home.

Once you're home, start checking for power coming from the ignition switch in the "run" position, starting under the hood. It could be a bad wire, bad connection at the firewall, or possibly a bad switch. If your radio etc. is still working, then it would lead me to think it's wiring related.
 

DasBoot70

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That's a classic ballast resistor failure, but since you don't have that, it's something in the ignition 2 wiring. That's the 12 volts to the ignition after you release the key from the "start" position.

To get you home, run a jumper wire from a 12 volt source to where the new ignition is picking up the ignition 2, probably at the + side of the coil, but I'm not familiar how you've wired the MSD distributor.
Thank you! I have my electrician here at work making me a jumper wire
 

DasBoot70

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Just looked at the instruction sheet for the MSD distributor and if you wired it per their procedure, then running a 12 volt wire to the + side of the coil will power up the ignition and get you home.

Once you're home, start checking for power coming from the ignition switch in the "run" position, starting under the hood. It could be a bad wire, bad connection at the firewall, or possibly a bad switch. If your radio etc. is still working, then it would lead me to think it's wiring related.


Factory am radio with factory 8 track in dash, someone added a pioneer fm/ 8 track player plus another Panasonic 8 track player on the floor in this car. With added tweeter speakers and equalizer meters. It’s really something else.
 

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Update: Added the jumper wire and drove the car home from work. While it was running I disconnected the jumper wire and she died.

Now I’m battling this snowstorm after it was 70 yesterday!
 

Snotty

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Do you have to change much if your
Replacing a TQ? Besides the intake.
Is that what you had?
If you replace it with another spreadbore carb, you don't need to change the intake. (Unless you want to dump the smog intake with a better performance one.)
 
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