Need help ID-ing brake drums
- Thread starter Toastno6
- Start date
Take one off; might be stamped information inside.
Oh yeah! That might help! It’s a ‘67 Dodge Monaco. I think they’re the standard brakes, I believe 11x2.75 fronts?
Ok this is driving me crazy. Can anyone tell me how to identify Budd vs Kelsey Hayes brakes? There’s nothing on it anywhere that I can find. I’m trying to order drums from Rock Auto (before anyone decides to please don’t hijack this thread with complaints about Rock Auto, I know) and I cannot for the life of me figure out which are the correct wheel studs either for the drums I’m purchasing or the drums that are currently on my bloody car
The only mark I can find on the drums is the one pictured.
The drums I’m ordering are Raybestos 1938R and if anyone can clue me in to the correct studs for those things I would be immensely grateful.
After putting so much work into the car it’s maddening to get stuck on something so stupidly basic.
The only mark I can find on the drums is the one pictured.
The drums I’m ordering are Raybestos 1938R and if anyone can clue me in to the correct studs for those things I would be immensely grateful.
After putting so much work into the car it’s maddening to get stuck on something so stupidly basic.
1966newport
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2012
- Messages
- 903
- Reaction score
- 219
drum brakes are same as long as width is same
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Rock Auto carries stuff from a number of companies. I suspect all brake drums made after 2000 A.D. consist of chinese potmetal, so, picking the best of a bad lot, I went with this "Dynamic Friction" outfit this past spring, when I needed new front drums/ The company has a U.S. office at least, though the drums I copped were clearly asiatic in origin. Whatever you get, you likely will want to turn them to a true round before installing them. Shipping cast iron easily warps it. Rotors too quickly distort in shipping.
Well I'm about done with this >
Ordered lug studs for the 3" brakes because they're all the same and all the lug studs I've found so far are too wide in the shoulder to either fit the drum or the hub. The current set do in fact fit the aftermarket drums but will not press into the hub, like not even close. At this point I'm ready to just ream the hub to fit the current studs and have done with the whole bloody thing but it shouldn't be this hard to find a lug stud that fits!
Ordered lug studs for the 3" brakes because they're all the same and all the lug studs I've found so far are too wide in the shoulder to either fit the drum or the hub. The current set do in fact fit the aftermarket drums but will not press into the hub, like not even close. At this point I'm ready to just ream the hub to fit the current studs and have done with the whole bloody thing but it shouldn't be this hard to find a lug stud that fits!
Last edited:
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Well I'm about done with this >
DON'T REAM THE HUB!! You need to take care not to waste the irreplaceable iron in the hubs by reaming or drilling. Get a bolt/drill index or a set of calipers and MEASURE the hole sizes in your hubs. Odds heavily favor them being near 0.650 inch stud shoulders, which will need to be pressed in either via a specialized tool meant for that and no other purpose or a large shop press (12 - 20 ton) with suitable arbors and plates. Fortunately, the wheel hub presses don't cost too much, though all the asiatic crap ones have worthless bearings.
I recommend a review of stud pressing procedure before you proceed any further. OF COURSE the stud shoulders WON'T FIT THROUGH THE DRUM HOLES, which had BETTER BE no larger than .5 inch diameter. If larger, discard them; they're worn out. If the stud holes in the hubs are greater than .70 inches, ditch them too.
This doesn’t make sense because the original stud shoulders DO fit through the drum holes and sit flush with the drum face because otherwise how could they be swedged to the drum?
When I tried to press in the new studs which have a knurl diameter of 0.65 (which is THE SAME for almost all of the ‘correct’ 3” drum studs) they were so oversized that they CRACKED THE DRUM. I’m afraid they’re going to deform the hub so the fact with them sitting here in front of me is that they won’t fit. I may try to get another set of hubs to play with but I’m pretty tired of trying to figure this out
Last edited:
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Get a FSM or hire a shop. You need help.
What I REALLY need are parts that fit the things they're designed to fit!
Just out of interest I pressed out the one oversize stud I dared to install and tried one of the old original studs in the hole. It span freely in the hole so there's clearly a huge size difference between them. The only stud I can find that seems like it might fit (Dorman 610-134) is apparently unobtainium so reaming the hub may be the only option even for a professional. Oh well, onwards!
Just out of interest I pressed out the one oversize stud I dared to install and tried one of the old original studs in the hole. It span freely in the hole so there's clearly a huge size difference between them. The only stud I can find that seems like it might fit (Dorman 610-134) is apparently unobtainium so reaming the hub may be the only option even for a professional. Oh well, onwards!
Part numbers for these old Chryslers are Pants on Head to look up. Found your part sitting on eBay In Stock. I also recommend looking on CarID and Partsgeek.
Frt Wheel Stud Dorman/AutoGrade 610-134 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Frt Wheel Stud Dorman/AutoGrade 610-134 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
If your original drums are in spec on the diameter than have them sand blasted and resurfaced. At least you'll have OEM quality drums. Ends the lug stud issue to.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
How reliable are resurfaced drums? I ask because I have these probably original drums on this '68, and would love to keep them IFF they can be SAFELY and RELIABLY resurfaced when needed. I need to get some good calipers on them to check their current state, to be sure. The former owner/flipper apparently hired some brake shop to replace the old cylinders, shoes, brake hardware,all the rubber hoses, and the master cylinder with a NAPA rebuilt one. The cylinders and shoes all are clearly chinesium crap, though for the moment in a new state, and working reasonably well, though NOT so well as Mathilda's brakes, with NOS shoes and hardware, and NEW, properly dressed drums!
So the matter of good drums weighs on my mind every time I put my foot on the brake pedal. Things work MUCH better after I replaced the master with the new, admittedly chinese made Bendix clone on a manual brakes bracket with proper pedal, but I still plan to replace the wheel cylinders and shoes after this current setup wears down. If I need drums for now, I can use the nice front drums off Mathilda, and likely the shoes too, or break into the little stash I've horded up this past couple years.
If you know of any good resurfacing shop(s), it would be good to have such data too. I suppose I can search, but I've noticed that nowadaze, Google NO LONGER CAN BE TRUSTED, as the advertising $$ has besotted their owners and certainly the scum CEO! Thank God there still are some objective UNIX servers out there with Archie, Veronica and Jughead running, as those venerable search engines still work objectively, to a far greater extent than the Big Corporate ***** anyway.
So the matter of good drums weighs on my mind every time I put my foot on the brake pedal. Things work MUCH better after I replaced the master with the new, admittedly chinese made Bendix clone on a manual brakes bracket with proper pedal, but I still plan to replace the wheel cylinders and shoes after this current setup wears down. If I need drums for now, I can use the nice front drums off Mathilda, and likely the shoes too, or break into the little stash I've horded up this past couple years.
If you know of any good resurfacing shop(s), it would be good to have such data too. I suppose I can search, but I've noticed that nowadaze, Google NO LONGER CAN BE TRUSTED, as the advertising $$ has besotted their owners and certainly the scum CEO! Thank God there still are some objective UNIX servers out there with Archie, Veronica and Jughead running, as those venerable search engines still work objectively, to a far greater extent than the Big Corporate ***** anyway.
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
The most effective way to resurface a drum is to have them ground at a machine shop rather then cut.
I just pulled the same drums off the front of my 67 the other day. You need to either cut the swage off around the lugs, or press each one individually out of the hub and drum. I'm doing a disc brake upgrade so I didn't care about the drums and tried to press the whole hub out with a hydraulic press.
If you insist on keeping drums on the front, this is the correct way to do it: Wheel stud swedge cutting tool
Don't do what I did if you plan to get your drums resurfaced:
www.forabodiesonly.com
If you insist on keeping drums on the front, this is the correct way to do it: Wheel stud swedge cutting tool
Don't do what I did if you plan to get your drums resurfaced:
Wheel stud swedge cutting tool
Just a FYI. The tool required for cutting the swedge on "A" body brake drums, is available from Goodson Tool. It is required to remove the swedge when removing the studs, to prevent ruinining the hub. Their part number is ST-437 for 7/16 studs, and ST-500 for 1/2 studs. These tools are on...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Last edited:
Similar threads
