Need to replace my axle seals and bearings

mag162

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In my 67 Fury wagon.
Thought I had a leaky wheel cylinder but when I took the drum
Off I realized it was the axle seal.
Never done them before and figured I’d do both sides bearings seals the whole thing.
What should I buy on rock auto? Or anywhere else?
 
In my 67 Fury wagon.
Thought I had a leaky wheel cylinder but when I took the drum
Off I realized it was the axle seal.
Never done them before and figured I’d do both sides bearings seals the whole thing.
What should I buy on rock auto? Or anywhere else?

Buy Timkin bearings and national oil seals. Rock auto has them sometimes. Do not under any circumstances buy ChiCom bearings, they are crap to begin with and much too soft for a heavy car like a C-Body.

I would be inclined to inspect the bearings first, if they roll smoothly and do not show pitting on the races you can probably reuse them. Likely unless you are hearing lots of noise from the rear axle that the rubber which is about 50 years old has failed due to age and all you will need is the seals and new brake linings. If you haven't already, down load the FSM at www.mymopar.com to review the procedure for adjusting the bearings. You will find the FSM in the Tools/Reference section of the web site. Do not try to clean oil soaked brake material.

Dave
 
If your bearings are quiet then keep running them. They are better quality than what you will replace them with. They are $75 per side on rockauto plus machine shop bill, save the $$ if they are good.
Clean and degrease them. You can do this with them on the axle.

You want the inner axle seals. Standard gear Part number USA30198

They are tricky to get out, easy to pound in with the right diameter home made tool. There is a lip in the housing and they will stop there going back in.
 
I pulled my axels and had a local shop remove the old bearings and press on the new.
I agree with Big John, Dr diff is your source. Buy the Timkens, worth every extra penny.

Oh, as I recall the factory service manual isn't 100% accurate. It always leaves me scratching my head .
 
You could always switch to the "Green bearings." It will get rid of the need to adjust the standard bearings. My Newport still has the factory type, but I used Greens in the 8.75 rear I dropped into the Gremlin. They work great!
 
I used the Dr. Diff package 3+ yrs ago on the first major maintenance job I did on Mathilda. It went perfectly and we've had zero trouble or noise from our rear end since then. Before, we had noise any time I took a right curve or turn at any speed over 10 mph and oil leaking into the brakes on both sides. I probably could have made do with seals and adjustment, but didn't want to chance having to repeat the job any time soon. I'm glad to see the price hasn't inflated on the Dr. Diff package w Timken bearings. That's the ONLY brand I'll buy after a chinese burn from VatoZone a couple years back.
 
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