New Distributor Car Not Starting

[Ghostultramarine]

Okay, so I painted my engine so when I took the old distributor out I did not mark it.

I thought I had the new distributor in the correct way but it would not start.

I turned it 180 degrees (never done this before - do you just pull the distributor and turn the shaft 180 degrees then reinsert?) but it still doesn’t start.

I tried to rotate it left and right in increments while cranking to see if it would start and nothing.

Yes, there’s spark.

As I said, I’ve never attempted this and am out of my comfort zone.

(1968 383 - if that means anything in this.)

 

[CBODY67]

Bump the starter to get the timing mark to "0". For good measure, you can remove #1 plug to check for its compression stroke (might need a helper's finger over the spark plug hole for this). When these two items are verified, then you can index the distributor rotor to #1 terminal. Then some quick starter applications to see if it will start. If you get a spit-back or backfire, then lift the distributor up and rotate the rotor 180 degrees, drop the distributor back down into the block, reassemble everything and try again. At least, this is my theory . . . hope it might help.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

Did you install a point type distributor or a modern electronic conversion? If the replacement distributor is a Cardone rebuild, check the point gap and be sure the points do not have a coating on the contacts to prevent corrosion. If you are getting spark from the coil, check the rotor and cap to be sure the spring on the rotor is contacting the cap. Even if the distributor was installed 180 degrees out, you should still be getting a backfire or fart back thru the carb when trying to start the engine. Check to be sure if you are getting fuel to the carb. A small amount of fuel down the carb throat should get the engine to fire assuming you have spark. You also need to verify that the distributor is properly seated in the screw slot and is turning as you crank the engine. Rebuilt units also sometimes get put in the wrong box and if you got a 383 distributor in error, it will be too short to seat itself.

Dave

 

[Ghostultramarine]

Okay, I did get a “fart back” through the carb before I rotated it 180 so maybe I’m on the right way again!

It’s dark (it’s in the driveway, so I’ll wait till tomorrow and had to hook up the trickle charger as the battery was wearing down).

It’s not a Cardone, it’s an Autoline points distributor.

I posted about it here:

Changing Distributors

I’ve employed the wife to help. “That’s all you’re interested in - your car.”

Ooh! I can respond with something like, “But you’re here with me so that should show I care about both of you!”

 

[3175375]

Okay, I did get a “fart back” through the carb before I rotated it 180 so maybe I’m on the right way again!

It’s dark (it’s in the driveway, so I’ll wait till tomorrow and had to hook up the trickle charger as the battery was wearing down).

It’s not a Cardone, it’s an Autoline points distributor.

I posted about it here:

Changing Distributors

I’ve employed the wife to help. “That’s all you’re interested in - your car.”

Ooh! I can respond with something like, “But you’re here with me so that should show I care about both of you!”

Your wife’s response is a warning - it appears that you have some work to do regarding your marriage if she’s responding that way. My ex would often respond that way and she never did understand…

You’ll figure out the car - maybe never the wife….

 

[Loadrunner]

B/RB Chrysler engines typically have Counterclockwise distributor rotation.

The cylinders going back towards the firewall on the D side are 1-3-5-7

The cylinders going back towards the firewall on the P side are 2-4-6-8

Remember these numbers, well enough to recite them anytime.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Repeat

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Repeat until you can never forget.

Knock knock.

Who's there?

1-8 4-3 6-5 7-2

That is your firing order, works on all Mopar V8's, and Chevys. Fords had to be different which is why they sound weird.

If you suspect something's out of whack - sometimes something you just did - go back to the absolute beginning by confirming TDC on #1 cylinder/ignition timing.

TDC on #1 on the compression/power stroke, which happens every other time the harmonic damper mark goes by the timing mark on the timing cover.

The way you do this easily without pulling a valve cover to see the intakes and exhaust valves moving is by removing the #1 cylinder spark plug, which is always the 1st plug on the D side of the engine on a MoPower, and with or without proctology exam glove stick a finger over the plug hole well enough to seal it and crank the engine with the key off of course by using a remote starter switch on the starter relay, everybody should have one of these, and if you don't, use a screwdriver or pliers you don't care about to short across the relay terminals to spin the engine.

Conversely, if you have a willing partner, someone can crank the engine for you, with coil wire pulled from distributor cap or coil as you like.

You're not cranking the starter as much as "bumping" it, just barely engaging the starter, bump, bump, bump.

When the piston comes up on compression stroke, you will hear it hissing past your finger, you will feel it.

Stop bumping before the timing marks meet and turn the engine to the timing mark by hand with the fan blades if you can, with fan clutch use appropriate socket on the crank bolt.

Match up the timing marks, and you're "at TDC on #1".

Look at where you're #1 wire goes on the distributor cap, usually two posts to the right of the front cap clip on LA 318 - the exact location relates to your ignition timing - take a sharpie, make a slash exactly where the wire it, and pull the cap, and look at where the rotor is.

Wherever the rotor is, that is where the #1 spark plug wire needs to be, and then you work clockwise from there, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Put the cap back on and Vrrooom ;]

Small blocks are Clockwise distributor rotation, wires go the other way around.

 

['66 Fury I]

B/RB Chrysler engines typically have Clockwise distributor location.

Sorry to disagree, but I'm sure SB's are clockwise and B/RB's are counterclockwise. Other than that, good info, Loadrunner. Lindsay

 

[Loadrunner]

Sorry, I copied/pasted it from where I wrote it for a just wrote it small block, prob got confused between the two pages and made the other one wrong ;]

 

['66 Fury I]

All good! It isn't those who make mistakes that worry me. It is those who refuse to admit it! LC

 

[Loadrunner]

The old timers would say "It takes three things to make it run", "compression, fuel, ignition".

If you have compression, and you should always verify this, then fuel, even a sip from a can down the carb, and ignition, and boom.

But out of time ignition, apparently common as I've seen/heard a few local cases this year, has put many a good car out of commission.

Some neighbors just got their super loved 80's Ford Fiesta running again, apparently someone swapped a couple plug wires working on it, and the car had to go to a pro to spot it.

So it's usually totally self inflicted and we've probably all done it more than once.

The old timers/teachers in school had a clever way of remembering the firing order of a Slant Six, they'd say "Think of women; too young, too old, just right" ;]

15-36-24