New guy tool kit for the old mopars

halifaxhops

Retired USAF MSGT (SW) yes navy also.
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Been seeing a lot of posts like what is a timing light, dwell meter etc figure lets do a New to the car tool kit. We have them to expect a normal wrench/socket set and screwdrivers except that lets make a list of the not so common tools you want to have around

Here is my down and dirty recommended starter tools for a NOOB

Decent Tach/dwell/volt meter
Timing light
Vacuum Gauge.
Distributor wrench
Feeler gauge
Brake tools
Jack Stands
Factory service manual hardcopy or know where to find it online.

A decent meter I found for a spare in my car is this on one line for about $30. Perfect first meter it does volt/tach/dwel/amp/ohm and temp. Works really well.
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patience. determination. way more time than money. a good incandescent test light, if used correctly, is the single best tool for diagnosing electrical (not electronic) problems period. agree with the vacuum gauge recommendation above. skip the jack stands, get a lift. compared to the money you're going to spend on the car, a good used lift will be dirt cheap, probably the best value for your tool dollar. for people with rotten cars: any miller 220v mig...
 
I'm interested in what comprises "brake tools" in your list. I've been learning what tools I need along the way and brake work is coming soon.
 
Been using the cheap, crappy, DMM's Harbor Freight has been giving away free for years. They're piling up in my tool box.
 
In the basic socket/wrench set, add: a u-joint and a short, medium, and long extension (some of which can replace the noted distributor wrench, if desired). the u-joint can be used either at the socket or between extensions to get to "that" angle of things.

Timing light: Upgrade to the one with the dial on it rather than just the basic model. This little feature allows you to "dial back" the flash to the TDC mark on the balancer, so you can check the actual amount of mechanical and vacuum advance in the distributor. A small additional cost for the added diagnosis functionality you will get.

Feeler gauge: Can be useful if you have mechanical lifters, to do the valve adjustments. Otherwise, for ignition point gaps. Shade tree "emergency" setting for point gap used to be a "matchbook cover", which would get you close enough for the engine to run decently well. For spark plugs, a wire gap gauge that might go down to about .018" and up to about .060". Bent-wire might be better than a u-shaped wire as you can better "feel" the resistance as the wire passes through the gap. When using a feeler gauge, make sure the gauge is flat and perpendicular to the gap being measured. Noting the "pull feel" as the gauge passes through the gap being measured.

You can't have Jack Stands without a Jack to raise the car: Watch the sales at Harbor Freight or similar for their "low profile, high lift" aluminum "NASCAR"-style jacks. Light weight to move around AND will go as low as 3.5" to get under a car with a flat tire or similar. Usually in the $100.00 range on sale? Other "normal" jacks can only go down to about 5", which is pretty close to "ride height" on many older Chrysler products. For general use, a ligher-duty service station jack can be good, but heavy and bulky. Jack stands need to be sturdy, reasonably light, and easy to use. 2 or 4, as desired.

"Roller Skates": Compliment the jack stands, so you can move the car on a hard surface in storage for more garage space. Get the ones with the smooth, round tire contact area. Not required, but for a car with flat-prone old tires, you can still move the car around a bit as needed. Maybe a "Santa Claus item"?

Wiring connector crimping tool, diagonal cutters, and factory-style wiring connectors. Plus a large and small pair of needle-nose pliers. Metal 6" ruler. Digital calipers for exact diameter measurements.

For the work bench: A decent-size vice can come in handy. As can an assortment of penetrating oils, spray lubes, a tube of synthetic chassis grease, spray brake cleaner, etc. Maybe even a few cans of spray paint in "engine color", satin black, etc. A battery terminal/cable wire brush cleaner.

Lots of other little things that can be added later or when needed.

Adequate lighting of the work space, a small fridge for drinks/snacks, and that requisite "old couch" to relax on. Can't forget the Drip Pans! IF you don't have a creeper, then a large sturdy piece of flat cardboard will work to slide around on.

For good measure, and doesn't cost much, start doing some flexibility and strength exercises. So you don't strain a muscle getting into some unusual position as you try to get something done on the car. Flexibility and hand strength can be important, too.

In relation to PATIENCE, you've got to learn "when to step back" and let things sit for a while. IF your repair strategy doesn't seem to be working, STOP to reassess it before you might break something, whether a part on the car or YOU. Sometimes, more force might be needed. Other times, a different way of approaching it might be needed. Learn by doing, successfully, with good mentors, where possible. KNOW your limits, but you can also seek to expand them, if desired, over time.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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I'm interested in what comprises "brake tools" in your list. I've been learning what tools I need along the way and brake work is coming soon.
There's really only two specialty tools you need for drum brakes. One is the tool that compresses the coil springs that hold the shoes on and the other is the tool that takes the brake springs off and on.

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An adjuster isn't a bad piece to have and they're cheap... You might even get one in a combo set with the above tools.

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The other tool that I use is a vacuum pump for bleeding the brakes by myself. Harbor Fright carries a Mity Vac kit, which is a good one to have. You'll find other uses for it like checking operation of vacuum advance and the vacuum actuators on the heater/AC boxes.

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Disc brakes just need a good size C clamp to compress the piston.
 
On-the-road emergency tools I've found very useful over the years.
Vice-grip pliers
Channel Lock plies
Crescent wrench
Big slot screwdriver - about 12" to 15" with 3/8 shaft
1 lb ball peen hammer
6" side cutter pliers
6" needle nose pliers
couple rolls of black electrician tape
roll of duct tape - today use Gorilla tape
assortment of hose clamps
test lamp
assortment of fuses
a basic socket set, I like 3/8 drive but 1/2 drive is tougher. Make sure the spark plug socket fits our fat plugs.
Shop Manual (printed)
Flashlight

Probably lots I've forgotten but you get the idea.
 
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About 25 at HF if you don't use a lot. Also the parts stores lend them.
 
I found the greatest light at Horror Freight. Rechargeable LED with a magnetic base. Catch them on sale for about $20... buy two so one is always fully charged. Folds 90 degrees either direction, has two settings for the big light and there's a small flashlight type LED on the end of it. If my Dad had this, I never would have heard the phrase "Shine the damn light over here" when I was young.

390 Lumen Magnetic Slim Bar Folding LED Worklight

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Don't forget that as Sears is trimming their store numbers, there can be some sales in automotive tool items you might desire. Some discount coupon codes, too!

CBODY67
 
Another gizmo I've carried for many years, a standard caged trouble light with the 110v bulb replaced with a 12v screw in bulb and a pair of alligator clamps to connect it to the battery. The cord is long enough to reach all parts of the car.

vintage-12-volt-industrial-garage-wire-cage-light-lead-lamp-classic-car.jpg
 
NOT to forget about a pocket-sized cell phone!

CBODY67
 
ayilar set a good example. he did extensive research on cars and repairers. he set his priorities right. not limited by price, year, make, model, drive train, color, options. he just wanted a convertible that was valued correctly. he had his check book ready. when the right car came up, he purchased it and had it serviced. now he drives it and enjoys it. success! for a relatively small amount of time and money. the only "tool" he used was his brain. that's the way to go!
 
In the basic socket/wrench set, add: a u-joint and a short, medium, and long extension (some of which can replace the noted distributor wrench, if desired). the u-joint can be used either at the socket or between extensions to get to "that" angle of things.

Timing light: Upgrade to the one with the dial on it rather than just the basic model. This little feature allows you to "dial back" the flash to the TDC mark on the balancer, so you can check the actual amount of mechanical and vacuum advance in the distributor. A small additional cost for the added diagnosis functionality you will get.

Feeler gauge: Can be useful if you have mechanical lifters, to do the valve adjustments. Otherwise, for ignition point gaps. Shade tree "emergency" setting for point gap used to be a "matchbook cover", which would get you close enough for the engine to run decently well. For spark plugs, a wire gap gauge that might go down to about .018" and up to about .060". Bent-wire might be better than a u-shaped wire as you can better "feel" the resistance as the wire passes through the gap. When using a feeler gauge, make sure the gauge is flat and perpendicular to the gap being measured. Noting the "pull feel" as the gauge passes through the gap being measured.

You can't have Jack Stands without a Jack to raise the car: Watch the sales at Harbor Freight or similar for their "low profile, high lift" aluminum "NASCAR"-style jacks. Light weight to move around AND will go as low as 3.5" to get under a car with a flat tire or similar. Usually in the $100.00 range on sale? Other "normal" jacks can only go down to about 5", which is pretty close to "ride height" on many older Chrysler products. For general use, a ligher-duty service station jack can be good, but heavy and bulky. Jack stands need to be sturdy, reasonably light, and easy to use. 2 or 4, as desired.

"Roller Skates": Compliment the jack stands, so you can move the car on a hard surface in storage for more garage space. Get the ones with the smooth, round tire contact area. Not required, but for a car with flat-prone old tires, you can still move the car around a bit as needed. Maybe a "Santa Claus item"?

Wiring connector crimping tool, diagonal cutters, and factory-style wiring connectors. Plus a large and small pair of needle-nose pliers. Metal 6" ruler. Digital calipers for exact diameter measurements.

For the work bench: A decent-size vice can come in handy. As can an assortment of penetrating oils, spray lubes, a tube of synthetic chassis grease, spray brake cleaner, etc. Maybe even a few cans of spray paint in "engine color", satin black, etc. A battery terminal/cable wire brush cleaner.

Lots of other little things that can be added later or when needed.

Adequate lighting of the work space, a small fridge for drinks/snacks, and that requisite "old couch" to relax on. Can't forget the Drip Pans! IF you don't have a creeper, then a large sturdy piece of flat cardboard will work to slide around on.

For good measure, and doesn't cost much, start doing some flexibility and strength exercises. So you don't strain a muscle getting into some unusual position as you try to get something done on the car. Flexibility and hand strength can be important, too.

In relation to PATIENCE, you've got to learn "when to step back" and let things sit for a while. IF your repair strategy doesn't seem to be working, STOP to reassess it before you might break something, whether a part on the car or YOU. Sometimes, more force might be needed. Other times, a different way of approaching it might be needed. Learn by doing, successfully, with good mentors, where possible. KNOW your limits, but you can also seek to expand them, if desired, over time.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

I have done all of this, and the car still kicks my ***. . . :poke:
 
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