New here - 67 Plymouth Fury VIP

[MKTSC]

Hey guys, just swapped an old truck I had for a nice driver quality 67 Fury VIP. It's a 383 2bbl car, 727 trans. The 49k on the odo appears to be original and not rolled over. Interior is pristine, exterior is very nice with the exception of some surface spots on the rear quarters and a small hole in the passenger lower fender. Trunk floor is a bit rusty too, but structurally sound. Recent brakes, tuneup, and transmission work. Pretty much everything works although the rear air has been removed and there's a part missing from the original A/C system. I might just remove the rest of it to lessen the parasitic loss. None of my stuff has A/C anyways, lol.

This car is my driver as I work close to home and can throw my two car seats in the back. So far I'm absolutely loving this car. I'm looking to learn as much as I can about my car, as it's the first classic Mopar I've ever owned. I've wanted a B-engine big block car from this era for quite sometime, so I'm really excited to have one. I picked up a factory service manual on eBay so I can wrench on this old girl.

Issues that need attention:
-Trans was serviced, new cooler lines installed, and fresh fluid/filter/gasket. However there's a leak coming from the transmission and the previous owner says it's from where the line enters the transmission. What are common things to look for with these transmissions?

-When full, the fuel tank leaks. Seems to be coming from the front top of the tank. I'm wondering if there are vents there? Replacement tanks are easy and pretty cheap to source, however they seem to sell two different versions, one with 2 vents and one with 4. Any easy way to identify which one I have without dropping the tank?

-Choke is inoperable. Not a huge deal, but I'll probably fix it and rebuild the carb at the same time. It's a Carter BBD correct? Mike's Carburetor Parts stocks two kits for this car and carb. Is there a particular one I need?

Also looking for a good source for parts for these C-body cars.

Thanks in advance!

-Matt

 

[detmatt]

Wow, it's a real beauty, welcome to the site from the Motor City!
You're lucky to be in proximity to Murray Park in Tiffon, OH. He can be found here.
Www.cbodies.com

 

[66sptfry]

Welcome nice car

 

[The Horvaths]

Nice car. Welcome!

 

[Turboomni]

Welcome to the site and nice car. I hope you aren't planning on driving her all winter are you?

 

[MKTSC]

Small world, I have family in Tiffin. Probably won't be much of a winter driver, I have other vehicles for that. But I'm going to daily it as much as I can.

 

[Turboomni]

Whew good news! Your car looks very very nice and am glad it will stay that way.
Many times since these cars can go for real cheap a kid or adult will just run a decent car into oblivion in a short time.

 

[MKTSC]

Nope I plan on fixing what needs fixed and driving it. We have a '47 Nash, and a squarebody stepside Chevy and a few old motorcycles in addition to our newer vehicles. Thanks for the kind words. The pictures make the car look in better condition than it actually is. It's a good driver quality car though.

I have a slight bit of OCD, and can't stand it if one of my vehicles isn't in good mechanical order. Hence me wanting to get the fuel leak, trans leak, and inoperable choke fixed up.

 

[saforwardlook]

I always thought the VIP models encroached hard on the Chrysler line up for luxury uncommon for a Plymouth. Nice interiors with woodgrain trim and even a headrest option. In your case, it looks like the original owner must have specified one for the passenger but not for the driver. Kind of weird.

Transmission leak is most often the selector shaft seal and it can be changed pretty easily if you have the special tool to do it, or your local trans shop should be able to do it. It is about a 10 minute job if you know what you are doing. I recommend not changing the very small seal at the top of the throttle body housing that sticks up above the transmission case, as there is a difficult to access e ring there and it almost never leaks and you almost always will mess up your linkage in the trans pan, and would have to remove the pan to fix the problem caused by trying to change that small seal with the trans in the car. You will be after the larger seal at the base of the valve body cylindrical housing that protrudes through the trans case. The front cooler line fitting is right in the same area, and you can snug the fitting line a little if needed, but I doubt it is that, but easy to check. Investing in a service manual might be helpful for you if you plan to keep the car. Here is the special tool if you choose to do the seal yourself:

Transmission seal tool shift shaft 727 904 mopar chrysler plymouth jeep puller

Your carburetor is most likely a Carter BBD, but it could also be a Holley or Stromberg. It would be best to check the number on your carburetor and order a kit based on that. With such a low mileage car, the small triangular tag may still be present, and it would have the number on it, or you could also find the model number on one of the faces of the carburetor.

The fuel sending unit goes in from the front face of the fuel tank near the top (near the differential). You may well have a leaking sending unit seal or perhaps one of the vent tube hoses is cracked. You can peer up into that area with the rear of the car jacked up and on jack stands and check all the hoses and the seal for evidence of leaking. Your tank would have 2 vents, as the 4 vent tanks were used mainly in the 70s models for evaporative emissions control. But you can also see the vents when you check for the leak in the sending unit area. Fuel tanks that have been around for so many years and with ethanol in the fuel are very likely rusty inside and if so, that can plug up the tank fuel sending unit filter leaving you stranded. Also if service has not been done in that area, before driving it, especially with children in the vehicle, I would definitely get the tank, sending unit, and hoses/seals carefully inspected before driving it at all. Any leaks in that area are dangerous, as if it leaks when full, it will also likely leak when fuel is sloshing around from driving it, and you might not be aware of it.

Good luck with your new driver!

 

[Zymurgy]

Welcome neighbor. Love the car and plenty of room in the rear for the child seats.

One tip on gas tank leak. If the sending unit has been replaced in the past, the re-pop retaining ring doesn't hold the sending unit tight enough. You can either add another an additional rubber gasket or locate an old retaining ring. This plagued me for 3 years until it was suggested to me.

 

[MKTSC]

Thanks so much for the info. I'll probably just buy the tool and seal and change it myself. Do you have to drain the fluid or can you do it with the trans full?

I'll get under there and verify both the fuel and trans leaks.

Here's a shot of the carb:

 

[live4theking]

That's a really nice looking ride. It must have been a pretty decent truck that you traded.

 

[MKTSC]

That's a really nice looking ride. It must have been a pretty decent truck that you traded.

I mean it was a nice truck, but I feel like I got the better end of the deal. It was a big block '91 F350 Crew Cab.

 

[Polara-Star]

i recognise that carb as a Holley 2-BBL, although i don't recall the model off the top of my head. As to the gas leak, the seal around the ring that holds the sending unit/pickup is the most likely culprit. The way the tank sits, any leak from the top of the tank tends to present itself forward, i.e. drips right behind the Diff. Only way to fix properly is to drop the tank. Beautiful car, stay with it and good luck!

 

[MKTSC]

Sounds exactly like what's happening. The forward inertia of the car when braking sends fuel to the front of the tank, and that's where it's leaking. Can you buy just the seal for the sending unit, or is a whole new sending unit in order if that's the culprit?

Thanks a ton guys, can't wait to get these few things fixed and commence to driving!

 

[saforwardlook]

Thanks so much for the info. I'll probably just buy the tool and seal and change it myself. Do you have to drain the fluid or can you do it with the trans full?

I'll get under there and verify both the fuel and trans leaks.

Here's a shot of the carb:

You do not have to drain the fluid to change the selector shaft seal.

Is the engine in your VIP the original one, as it looks to be a later engine - one with exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and an air pump supply line and electric choke? None of those would have been on a 1967 Plymouth. And I do not personally recognize that carburetor. Seems like a smog engine maybe from the 70s.

 

[MKTSC]

You do not have to drain the fluid to change the selector shaft seal.

Is the engine in your VIP the original one, as it looks to be a later engine - one with exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and an air pump supply line and electric choke? None of those would have been on a 1967 Plymouth. And I do not personally recognize that carburetor. Seems like a smog engine maybe from the 70s.

Yeah someone just pointed out to me that the intake manifold is wrong for the year. That kinda sucks, as I was loving the fact that I had a pre-emissions car. How can I definitively tell what engine is in this? Are there casting numbers I can cross reference?

 

[Polara-Star]

With the hose on the back of the manifold, which i believe is the vacuum line for the brake booster, as well as the choke pull-off next to the carb, i believe what you have here is a '73-'78 vintage 400. An extremely dependable, likeable engine (one of my favourites, truth be told) and about as common as peasants in Victorian England. Frankly, that would explain the Holley 2-bbl...

 

[MKTSC]

With the hose on the back of the manifold, which i believe is the vacuum line for the brake booster, as well as the choke pull-off next to the carb, i believe what you have here is a '73-'78 vintage 400. An extremely dependable, likeable engine (one of my favourites, truth be told) and about as common as peasants in Victorian England. Frankly, that would explain the Holley 2-bbl...

Yep that's exactly what it looks like. A damn 400. Great engine don't get me wrong, but now I know why it felt a little light in the loafers when you put the hammer down. A measly 170hp instead of the SAE 270 that the original 383 should've had. The single exhaust should've tipped me off honestly...

Balls...

 

[1Fury1]

Engine stuff is easily changed. A sound body and clean interior is the place to start. And black on black ... very nice VIP.