New Land Barge, new forum .

[ksc]

Hello everybody! Bought my first big body Mopar about a month and a half ago.
Right now I have a pretty serious concern of parts availability. Sheet metal , interior soft parts, window and door seals absolutely needed right now!
My 1973 Plymouth Fury lll (in my favorite Mopar dark green metallic) has liberated me from theAutoZone . When they told me they couldn't get a starter relay for this car I told him to look again they repeat their prior statement. I said something like why do I come here anyway? Oh yeah you're open on Saturdays and Sundays and late into the night well I won't be back. Haven't been and I won't be .
Anyway this is it the mean machine the green terror of the deep. Did I happen to mention that I've come to love this car in the last 6 weeks?
I've had more darts dusters and valiants then I can count any longer. And I love those cars always will never had a big body Mopar but it came up for sale locally mile or so away and I had to go see it. I stepped up to it had a bit of a flashback for a while with the smells the feel the sounds, took me right back.
I'm going to lay a couple photos on you and pick up a thread somewhere , it might kick off something like this "HELLLLLLP!"

Oops forgot something again.(the photos)

 

[LocuMob]

See you made it over here. Time to start finding parts!

 

[cbarge]

Welcome!
By 73 the starter relay basically the same as ABE cars. So they can look up a Charger or Challenger since they are more "popular" to look up for the bean counters.
Thats some serious nuclear meltdown in the wiring.
Best to search for a harness from a parts car or a car thats about to be derbied and harness is not important, lol.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Welcome from Virginia!

 

[fury fan]

Welcome from north-central Indiana!
Where in west-central Indiana are you?

FWIW, I recently bought some starter and horn relays from Rock Auto, and they were available on Amazon also (both from Standard Motor Parts, a long-standing brand).

Those are decent compression numbers for a 'used' engine - I presume the red numbers are after adding oil to the cylinders?

I'm seeing some low-buck potential in that one. Black-painted roof, fresh paint on the wheels, dogdish hubcaps...

 

[live4theking]

Well you have discovered the only problem with these big cruises and that is the availability of body and interior parts.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Melting at the steering column connector for battery and ignition power is common in 1972/1973 c-bodies in my experience.

What wire burnt in the dash?

Serious brinneling on the u-joint. Good catch.

 

[ksc]

Welcome!
By 73 the starter relay basically the same as ABE cars. So they can look up a Charger or Challenger since they are more "popular" to look up for the bean counters.
Thats some serious nuclear meltdown in the wiring.
Best to search for a harness from a parts car or a car thats about to be derbied and harness is not important, lol.

One wire meltdown from somewhere behind the gauge panel toward the heater assembly didn't burn through any other wires it doesn't appear but the burnt the insulation off of that one wire beginning to end apparently I didn't even find where it started stops at

Well you have discovered the only problem with these big cruises and that is the availability of body and interior parts.

I never imagined it would be so but yep.

 

[ksc]

Melting at the steering column connector for battery and ignition power is common in 1972/1973 c-bodies in my experience.

What wire burnt in the dash?

Serious brinneling on the u-joint. Good catch.

I was never able to pick out what wire it was. Never found a shred of insulation to guess a color. Never saw where it started I couldn't find where it ended. On the dash end it had a female Spade connector.
There's been a couple real bodge jobs behind the dash in that car prior to my owning it

 

[ksc]

Welcome from north-central Indiana!
Where in west-central Indiana are you?

FWIW, I recently bought some starter and horn relays from Rock Auto, and they were available on Amazon also (both from Standard Motor Parts, a long-standing brand).

Those are decent compression numbers for a 'used' engine - I presume the red numbers are after adding oil to the cylinders?

I'm seeing some low-buck potential in that one. Black-painted roof, fresh paint on the wheels, dogdish hubcaps...

The black and red numbers are hot and cold. Hot is in red no oil added. I'm in DeMotte 2hr north of Indy right off east of i65

 

[ksc]

Melting at the steering column connector for battery and ignition power is common in 1972/1973 c-bodies in my experience.

What wire burnt in the dash?

Serious brinneling on the u-joint. Good catch.

What causes that formation on the ujoint cross? My guess is lack of Grease getting wet and sitting all at the same time.

 

[fury fan]

Yeah, looks like we're right at 2hrs apart. Too bad it's not closer.

On the U-joints - they don't travel through range of motion like a wheel bearing, they only rock back and forth. I don't think the needles ever make a full revolution. Those grooves then happen due to dry grease or lack of grease as driveshaft torque tries to flatten them. A dry wheel bearing would self-destruct because each roller moves, they never stay in the same place/position. U-joint needles just dig themselves a small rut.

The range of motion then probably decreases as the leaf springs flatten, as that reduces driveline angle.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Serious brinneling on the u-joint. Good catch.

What causes that formation on the ujoint cross? My guess is lack of Grease getting wet and sitting all at the same time.

Lack grease causes brinneling. The u-joint needle bearings grind into the cross, instead of rolling on the surface of the cross.

 

[ksc]

All right boys and girls if there was anything I needed for this car this car right now here it is in one photograph basically three items.
Window cranks the match. I'll buy one I'll buy a pair I'll buy triplets or quad. Price dependent I suppose. But anything will be considered. Window lift bushings or rollers if that's what they're called. This driver side window is a disaster. And last but certainly absolutely not the least the spring that helps hold the door open.
If anybody knows where I can find these things or has these things I may purchase please please let me know ASAP .
HELP ! Aaaaaahhhhhh!
I will repost this in the parts wanted area.

 

[ksc]

Welcome!
By 73 the starter relay basically the same as ABE cars. So they can look up a Charger or Challenger since they are more "popular" to look up for the bean counters.
Thats some serious nuclear meltdown in the wiring.
Best to search for a harness from a parts car or a car thats about to be derbied and harness is not important, lol.

I'll repair what I have or make my own , if it may come to that . Hopefully it won't come to such a wild extreme. But knowing me it could.

 

[fury fan]

Is the metal roller still in your hinge?
In these 2 pics, it is located at teh grease fitting (this hinge has been modified).
Pencil points to it in photo 2.

The roller often seizes to the roll pin it rotates on, and may have a flat spot(s), and the roller-arm often gets worn also (the red profile line). The spring holds the roller-arm against the roller, and the profile in the arm gives the door-stopping location. When the flat spots are too great, or point in the arm gets rounded, the door is less likely to stay open, esp if car is facing uphill.

Although it is common for guys to replace the hinge pins and bushings, the roller/arm/spring are generally neglected.

 

[ksc]

Is the metal roller still in your hinge?
In these 2 pics, it is located at teh grease fitting (this hinge has been modified).
Pencil points to it in photo 2.

The roller often seizes to the roll pin it rotates on, and may have a flat spot(s), and the roller-arm often gets worn also (the red profile line). The spring holds the roller-arm against the roller, and the profile in the arm gives the door-stopping location. When the flat spots are too great, or point in the arm gets rounded, the door is less likely to stay open, esp if car is facing uphill.

Although it is common for guys to replace the hinge pins and bushings, the roller/arm/spring are generally neglected.

View attachment 543705
View attachment 543704

I'm not sure if that pin and roller are still there. I have not noticed it. There will be a closer examination this evening.

 

[ayilar]

The black and red numbers are hot and cold. Hot is in red no oil added. I'm in DeMotte, IN 2hr north of Indy right off east of I-65

Welcome to the forum! Given your location, you might be interested in joining the 2022 CATL:

CATL 2022: C-bodies At The Lake on Saturday, Sept. 17, 2021 (Clinton Lake, IL to Kokomo Plant, IN)

Mark your calendars: the fourth CATL Drive (aka the 2022 Edition) is on! The first (2019) CATL ran from Rockford, IL to the old Pabst Brewery in Milwaukee and onto Racine, WI (for beers and car discussions with @70 Sport Suburban) in September 2019, with a stop on Lake Michigan's western shore...

www.forcbodiesonly.com

Even if you can't do the whole run from Clinton Lake in Central Illinois, it would be great if you could bring your Fury for part of it. The easiest would be to join for lunch (or right after) at The Bryant in Lafayette, IN -- or else at the Grissom Air Museum.

From Indy, members @david hill (for sure) and @fury fan (with high likelihood) will be there as well. From IL, @SGVert and @73 New Yorker (for sure) and @sixpkrt (with high likelihood) will join me for the whole route.

 

[Mid70's Chrysler Fanatic]

ksc, you have quite a project there! The body looks solid (accuracy of my assessment limited by looking at the business-card-size pix on my iPhone). Glad it’s gonna be saved.

On the subject of U-joints, is there a good way of judging their condition without dismantling anything?

 

[cbarge]

ksc, you have quite a project there! The body looks solid (accuracy of my assessment limited by looking at the business-card-size pix on my iPhone). Glad it’s gonna be saved.

On the subject of U-joints, is there a good way of judging their condition without dismantling anything?

The quick check way is wiggle the drive shaft and check for slop.
The best way is drop the drive shaft and move the u joints around check for any binding. Siezed u joints can cause a driveline vibration.
If the needle bearings and cap falls apart..self explanatory..replace as needed.
Hope this helps.