1. 1969 300

    1969 300 New Member

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    I am going to have my 300 painted in Formal Black (nothing show quality, just a nice driver paint job). Does anyone have recommendations for a shop in Arizona? I've looked around, and it is anywhere from 1000 to 5000.
     
  2. bluefury361

    bluefury361 Old Man with a Hat

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    You won't be happy at $1000.00....... PM Chris....(azblackhemi), He'll tell you like it is.
     
  3. cm23uoc

    cm23uoc Old Man with a Hat

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    Also keep in mind that black shows surface incosistencies very clearly, where a white paint job for example could still look acceptable.
     
  4. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Decent materials would be at least a grand wouldn't they?
     
  5. 1978 NYB

    1978 NYB Warfighter FCBO Gold Member

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    Are you sure you want to paint a car black in Arizona? Does it have working A/C?
     
  6. bluefury361

    bluefury361 Old Man with a Hat

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    $1000.00 dosen't go very far at the paint store these days.
    Primer/sealer, paint and clear will likely excede that..... Then add the necessary body work, sanding, cutting and buffing.......

     
  7. cm23uoc

    cm23uoc Old Man with a Hat

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    You could try to cut some costs by doing some prep work first, sanding at least, but still don't think you can cut costs to 1000. Is this a change of color where engine compartment inner doors/ hood etc. will be involved as well or just the outside ?
     
  8. 1969 300

    1969 300 New Member

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    It would just be on the outside. I was quoted sanding, 2 coats of seal, 3 coats of color, 2 coats of uv clear, color sand and buff with a 3 year warranty for 1200.
     
  9. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    What I did may be what you want to do.
    I did all the bull work. Stripping the car of everything. Emblems, trim, bumpers, lights, you name it. Right down to a bare carcass.
    I sanded the entire car with #600 just to get a better visual of the surface condition.
    On small areas less than 100% perfect, I laid on a thin coat of Bondo Glaze (not Filler) and sanded. If you can do drywall, you can do this, it's that forgiving.
    I spot painted areas with filler primer and sanded.
    I did all the masking and turned it over to the pro
    Had him use single stage urethane. It's as hard as granite. Most cost effective way to go.
    The results were spectacular for the money. Paint and his labor: $900.00.
     
  10. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    That does sound like the way to go Stan. Well done!
     
  11. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    Seven coats, sanding, buffing, etc... 12 hundred bucks?!?!?

    < Sent from my tablet >
     
  12. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I don't know man, I'm a firm believer in "you get what you pay for". I'd certainly want to see some of his previous work and get some references.
     
  13. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    I'm guessing everything is going to be masked. No screwdriver turned. The overspray will make it a ten-footer.

    < Sent from my tablet >
     
  14. bluefury361

    bluefury361 Old Man with a Hat

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  15. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    That's the point.
    He's getting all of that for 12 hundred dollars? I wasted 60 hrs. of my labor for $300? 300/60=$5/hr?. I should have gone to Maaco.
     
  16. cm23uoc

    cm23uoc Old Man with a Hat

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    One of my relatives had a Maaco paintjob on his car once and they had a leaf from a tree left on the surface and painted it over.
     
  17. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Not possible unless his name is Maaco. If he is sanding the car then it better be block sanding as using a rotary will just give you waves in the paint. Block sanding takes time. Then I assume he will ignore the low spots that are uncovered. What about high spots? Of course this is after completely washing the car down like it has never been washed before. Then washed again after the block sanding. All trim left on the car from bumpers, to grille to nameplates?

    Sealer? I prefer an epoxy primer of a decent kind for those high spots you sanded down to the metal. Three coats of color? What color? Inexpensive bc, like Omni from PPG, is pretty thin with the pigments. Could take 4 coats with that paint. Their DBC could do it with less but at $400-500/gal. for the base only. Two coats of clear and then color sand? I don't think so as there will be little clear left. Three coats minimum if color sanding using decent stuff. Not too much under $100/gal. can be considered decent. Three year warranty? When I paint mine I expect 20 years and get it.

    He must be making only a $1 an hour on this job.
     
  18. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Sounds like the Navy. If it doesn't move paint it!
     
  19. Catfish

    Catfish Senior Member

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    I did a color change. I also told the shop I wanted a well done job, but also to keep in mind it was "just" a '65 Polara.....not a hemi cuda. $14,500 got me from point A....
    65 polara.jpg

    To point B.......
    DeHann Polara 095.jpg

    Obviously there is a point "C" next, as the car is not done at this point. I had the car completely stripped minus the body side molding and front and rear glass. All trim, badging etc was removed by me, all side glass and interior I removed. He did pull the sub blasted and painted it. Pulled the dash and painted it. All interior trim that was metal he painted. The bottom of the car is staying original. He did also spend quite a bit of time on the body side trim. He got the dents out and polished it. Labor is expensive, but I wanted it done right and not have to redo everything at a later date. Sure is a hard pill to swallow though.

    65 polara.jpg

    DeHann Polara 095.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  20. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    I think you got the pictures reversed.
    No.
    I PRAY you got the pictures reversed.