New project

66furywagon

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Got me a wagon
Start off with a good cleaning.
Will get diskbrakes in the front will need some parts .
And exhaust .

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Good cleaning yes, replace coolant hoses, fuel lines, brake lines, clean out fuel tank, etc etc, all the standard stuff, what year is it, not an expert but looks like 66,67, or 68.

All the best with it, congratulations.
 
Good cleaning yes, replace coolant hoses, fuel lines, brake lines, clean out fuel tank, etc etc, all the standard stuff, what year is it, not an expert but looks like 66,67, or 68.

All the best with it, congratulations.
66 fury 2
Looking for disk brakes for it
 
Hey there, a guy in the mechanical parts section is selling a set of 72 disk brakes which will fit your car, ask him for the power booster too plus get the power boost pedal assy as well as the splitter block that will be found bolted to the chassis under the power booster
 
Drum brakes are more dependable than that single pot master cylinder.
IMHO I would never downgrade a car with power brakes from manual. If your girlfriend or wife or daughter is going to drive it alot, and is not a car person maybe.
BTW have you driven the car really aggressively with 11"drum brakes? If not, good, then you will not be disappointed by the disc brakes.
 
Drum brakes are more dependable than that single pot master cylinder.
IMHO I would never downgrade a car with power brakes from manual. If your girlfriend or wife or daughter is going to drive it alot, and is not a car person maybe.
BTW have you driven the car really aggressively with 11"drum brakes? If not, good, then you will not be disappointed by the disc brakes.

After you sober up could you re-type this so it make sense.... :):):)
 
Save money and get the drums set up correctly, once again, correctly. They work great and take very little maintenance. If I was worried about discs in my cars, I'd never drive anything old. Replacing 9" drums makes sense. Sell that air cleaner to a 70's up owner and find the right one for your car. I have 2 66 Polaras, and have gathered up plenty of extra parts. And swap out that master cylinder for a dual circut one. There's a safety upgrade right there, without touching anything else.
 
If you can't follow my post, follow Scott's. Get rid of that single pot master. Museum piece only, if you are going to drive the car regularly it has no business being there.
Power brakes. If they are on the car, fine leave them. If you really like driving, manual brakes are not a burden and I think keep you more connected with the experience of driving a old car. As I said earlier IMHO.
Converting drums to disc on a car that is not a commuter car/daily driver and not driven very aggressively is like building a 500" stroker big block to do nothing more than go to Dairy Queen Cruz-in a couple times a month. Same idea with electronic ignition upgrade. Originally developed to reduce maintenance intervals. If it takes you 2 years to accumulate 3000 mi what have you gained? On top of that aftermarket gizmos like Petronix will get you a ride home on a tow truck when it fails, of course Mopar ECU and pickup coils are not in every corner auto parts either, anymore.
I understand the reason for wanting to make a car safe, but upgrades are not always the holy grail worth searching and waiting for. I would not, not enjoy a car because it has old technology in it, just pay it a little repect.
 
How many years did we have things like no seat belts, no collapsible steering columns, or seat belts and have now lived to tell about it? But others didn't . . .

The '67 dual master cylinder is an easy thing to do. Same booster was used, at least on my Chryslers. Just need the lines from the cylinder to the brake line dividing fittings.

Personally, I like that air cleaner where it is. That Accel coil might find a better place to be, though.

Points are good, so long as you can get the dwell readings to basically match the point gaps. Points gaps first, dwell readings second. Mopar conversion kit would be my choice, as it's OEM-based rather than otherwise. Upgrade to an OEM-style, later vintage voltage regulator, though.

We drove for jillions of miles with power drum brakes, AFTER we learned to use less initial pressure on the pedal! No problem locking them all up, either! Discs have more fade resistance and aren't so touchy on initial application, but it's that "first stop" that really matters when you need it? Good quality linings make the difference. When you need new tires, you might consider some 15" wheels and modern radials, which can probably help the panic stopping as much as anything.

The late Brock Yates had a '66 (maybe '65) Fury III wagon. 383 4bbl and such. Not sure what possessed him to pick that one, but it became the first of a series of "Boss Wagons" he owned while at "CAR AND DRIVER" magazine, back then.

Several years ago, there was an article in "Collectible Automobile" on a '68 Fury I wagon. It was owned by a NYC paint contractor. A small operation. It was NOT pristine, but had some battle scars, but still survived. Slant Six, three-speed manual. It was his work vehicle and he carried his kid to school in it. His daughter thought it was neat, as did her classmates. Probably even better than a Marsades-Binz.

Keep it and get it going better. Doesn't need to be a 90% correct car to have CLASS!

CBODY67
 
Sucked in by FCBO, and it was in my peripherals the whole time. :BangHead: :wtf:

Worse to try to drink it not knowing the container is unopened . . . OR to try to drink it after you already have.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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