New tire rod ends today 78 NYB

Later Model C Bodies - "The Formal Years"

  1. 73 T&C

    73 T&C Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Took the Nimitz in for some work on the rear brakes (been banging on application figured the adjuster was out of sorts). Also I’ve been noticing some excess slop in the steering and some uneven tire wear.

    So....

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    Up on the alignment rack/lift she goes...

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    Sure enough... adjuster cable is slack and adjuster is stuck (both sides). Shoes look good though. Take it appart, clean it up, lubricate the adjuster and see if that does it.

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    Front pads all good.

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    Front tires wearing on the inside. Check alignment, set camber, check the upper and lower control arm bushings after new tire rods are in. If all good, reset the alignment.

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    The front tire rods are all varying degrees of “toast”. As is idler arm. No wonder it felt so sloppy. Interesting is that it didn’t pull and the wheel held straight.

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    Going to have to look up how to change the pinion oil seal. Leaking.

    Shocks all leaking too... will start rear self-leveling project on this excuse.

    Been a year on the road since recommissioning her.

    She’ll be down for a few days. Will miss the killer A/C.... good thing that it’s finally starting to get less hot!
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2019 at 3:49 PM
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  2. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Good that you got the work done and knowing what was in good shape.

    Was the toe-in "towed out'? Or was the camber negative? Brake pull is usually a function of un-equal caster, than loose/worn steering linkage items, IF it's not due to a brake situation on one side of the car.

    When the idler arm on the '66 Newport was needing replacement, I'd noticed that the front end was more sensitive to longitudinal pavement ridges than it had been, plus some clicks, AND that I couldn't follow BMWs through some off-ramps on the freeway (this was back in the middle '70s).

    I suspect you rotated the rear tires to the front?

    Good pictures!
    CBODY67
     
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  3. 73 T&C

    73 T&C Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    None of the typical noise of popping at standstill while turning. Quick check shows camber is out amp the bottom but upper and lower bushings show some cracks in the exposed part of the rubber but.... No looseness or movement. May have dodged a total rebuild on the front suspension.

    Now toe in or out with the level of looseness in the tire Rod joints.

    Just checked the FSM and the rear seal is a bit of a bitch to change.not to mention... where the heck do I find a new seal.
     
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  4. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    If it's the 9 1/4 it should be easy to get a seal, the seal can be changed with out pulling it all apart and replacing the crush sleeve. I do them alot in GM's, you just need to be cautious when tightening the pinion nut as you don't put too much preload on the bearings.
     
  5. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    Been there, done that, 65sporty is correct.
    If 9-1/4, pinion seals are easy to find and easy to install, then it must be true. Mine never leaked :lol:
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2019 at 7:47 AM
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  6. marty mopar

    marty mopar Well-Known Member

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    pinion seal...OEM part #s below

    8.25 diff
    2881041 3 5/32 OD

    9.25 diff
    2931862 3 15/32 OD