For Sale Nice 1970 300 Vert for Sale

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saforwardlook

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I saw this listing on Ebay last night and was considering going and looking at it since it is within an hour away from me, but just a little while ago, I see it has been sold for a good price it seems to me :BangHead::

1970 Chrysler 300 Series | eBay

440HP, fully optioned (including Auto Temp 1 unfortunately) and seemingly a rust free California car with low 88K miles. Someone got a good deal. The seller should have waited it out, but a savvy buyer moved in for the kill. The seller didn't say anything about Autotemp (and didn't include a photo of the dash panel either), but it shows up on the body code plate H53.

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Looks to me, like someone didn't know what someone had, while somone else did.. U-code 300 vert under 10k in that condition, is a "silly" price! :eek:
 
Agreed that it was a good buy at under $10k, but you can't do any significant resto work on it after that, else you're one of those guys selling a $20k TNT vert that we say 'good luck' to.

But that was a perfect-condition car for a guy like me who likes them a little faded...
 
So if that one sold between $10k and $12k is that a good deal? Are you guys thinking it is a say a $15k car? Or more?

Dave
 
So if that one sold between $10k and $12k is that a good deal? Are you guys thinking it is a say a $15k car? Or more?

Dave

Given the overall condition of the car and the miles indicated plus being a TNT California car, the only real detracting issue was the need for a better quarter panel repair probably due to an accident and equipped with Autotemp 1. Personally, I could have and would have gone to look at it the day after I saw it but it was pulled from the auction before I had a chance. But I personally believe that car would have sold for at least $15K in Germany, for example, given what is known about it and if it was being sold by someone with a reputable history of honesty by the Germans. So if someone got it for around $10K, it was a good deal IMO. But $10 - 12K from a U.S. buyer would be about right. And given how the sale went down, I would wager the car sold to a U.S. buyer that wanted a nice car. We may never know for sure.
 
Agreed that it was a good buy at under $10k, but you can't do any significant resto work on it after that, else you're one of those guys selling a $20k TNT vert that we say 'good luck' to.

But that was a perfect-condition car for a guy like me who likes them a little faded...

Why would anyone want to restore a car in that condition? It's non of my business what other people do with their cars BUT, IMO, only a complete dumbass would restore that car. It's only original once (yea, I'm tired of that phrase too) plus it doesn't need restoring. It can't look much better. I don't like the colors at all but the condition is impeccable.
 
Perhaps I should've said it differently. That car looks great because it's all 1 color, straight, rustfree, and we're all (or most of us) googly-eyed over the TNT. But I'd bet in person that car overall looks a little faded and tired, because I see some of it in those pics.

Like the cracked bushings and that rusty powder on the leafsprings - in my experience that's a good indication of springs that are worn and don't ride well. You can lube them, but that's a bandaid.
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Those tires are an ancient all-season pattern, and probably don't have much to offer the next owner.

The bumpers look faded, as does the paint on the trunklid and quarterpanel top and extension. Looks like slightly different colors, too.
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My TNT 300 had that crimped-flat exhaust on it much like this one, and I didn't realize how much it held that car back until I replaced it with mandrel-bent stuff. If you're gonna keep that exhaust you might as well have an E85. And this one needs a muffler at a minimum.
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And the interior looks discolored, and there's an obvious hole. Hard to fix the seat (in white vinyl) without it standing out, or the others starting to look worse in comparison.
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So - I could imagine a guy spending another $2000 in some improvements, and it would still look essentially the same. Then if you ever wanted it really shiny you'd probably have to paint it, and that's the 'significant' cost I was referring to.

I'm not saying it's a bad car, just that you'd have to spend your after-purchase money wisely on this one.
 
So - I could imagine a guy spending another $2000 in some improvements, and it would still look essentially the same. Then if you ever wanted it really shiny you'd probably have to paint it, and that's the 'significant' cost I was referring to.

Yer gonna spend all of that two grand just getting the ATC II to work. . .
 
Wasn't there a Mercedes control module that was found to be retrofittable into these?

from the 71&up model a Mercedes part does interchange.

But who needs AC?
Open the top and sweat your *** off.
95% of us have overweight so we could all loose some pounds

Carsten
 
There ya go. I think the Merc part alone is almost a grand.

Naw, it only $525 if you give them your original core in exchange. But like Carsten said, it is only applicable for 1971 through 1973.
Sweating one's *** off won't cause you to lose weight except for temporarily. I will keep any a/c I have working, one way or another!

For this convertible at issue, I would probably just swap out autotemp 1 for a manual system. It wouldn't be that hard.
 
I Private Messaged Seller through EBay and he called me back! Super nice fellow; 300 sold to a Florida Buyer for . . . drumroll . . . $9K! This car is precisely why I have tried my best to stop looking at the C Body for sale thread for the past month+! Citron Mist Metallic (I know that's the 'Plymouth' name Carsten!) white top white gut California Survivor '70 300 Vert- (TNT and Cornering Lamps!) only a set of 15" Road Wheels away from perfection . . .
 
Well bought and well sold. It looks like it needs a lot of maintenance on aged items but a great starting point
 

I have pulled both systems from quite a few parts cars over the years Stan. And when I restore a car, the stub frame comes off the body and only the bare body goes into my paint shop to get redone. Everything else is out anyway. So for me, it is just part of the restoration process.

But my 1969 Imperial might get a change over, and I am not intending a "complete" on that car, but I will likely remove the entire dash, and the engine will come out anyway for freshening, so with those two moves, again, not that bad.

But everything is relative! And I would rather do a 1968-70 Autotemp I system than a formal. That looks bad!
 
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