No brake lights or turn signal

Electrical & Ignition

  1. good golly

    good golly New Member

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    I have no brake lights or turn signal on drivers side of my 65 sport fury. Tail lights are working. Any ideas on what is wrong? I have read electrical diagrams in fsm, but no help.
     
  2. stubs300

    stubs300 Senior Member

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    I have kind of the same issue on a A-100. I have studied the wiring diagram the my eyes hurt. Everything seems to lead back to the turn signal switch. Weather it's the switch or wiring, I don't know? I just haven't gotten around to messing with it yet because I hate dickin with electrics & wiring. Good Luck
     
  3. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Start with a jumper from the tail light housing to a good ground. Pull the bulb out and check it first. (Usually if it is a bad bulb the front signal will be lit solid and you won’t hear the flasher. )
    What does the test light do when you put it on the LH circuit? Does the test light blink or light up. Likely there’s a plug in the trunk area that you can tap into as well as the bulb socket contact. Check both left and right side ( if you are hooked up right the right side should flash your test light). If nothing back there for the left circuit then move under the dash or LH side kick panel and see if you get a signal there where the rear harness connector goes to the rear. If still nothing then go to your turn signal harness and try there for a light. Rule out a bad wire or connector issue before tearing into the turn signal switch. Start closest to the end of the circuit (bulb and housing) and work your way back to the source of power.
     
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  4. stubs300

    stubs300 Senior Member

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    On mine, I swapped the housings and got the same results to rule out bulb, socket or pigtail wiring on that. I even replaced the H-light switch to rule that out. The old was pretty crusty but still didn't change anything. That's why I keep looking back at the signal switch which all the wring goes through after repeated study & tracking of wires on the schematic.
     
  5. Devinism

    Devinism Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Have someone stand behind the car as you have your foot on the brake pedal and wiggle the TS lever, left turn. If you have some light, or even a flicker, then the turn signal switch is the culprit. Back in my shop days I changed quite a few on our early MoPars.
     
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  6. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Old Man with a Hat

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    The brake light and the turni signal use the same filament of the dual filament bulb. The tail light uses the other one. Which means the brake light circuit goes through the turn signal switch. Check the wiring harnes grounds at that corner of the car, too. Plus the voltage feed for and through the brake light switch, for good measure.

    To do things "solo" carefully back the car up near a wall or, better yet, a big window so you can see what the lights do in the rear view mirror.

    Keep us advised of your progress/findings, please.
    CBODY67
     
  7. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    Try disconnecting the wires in the trunk just behind your left tail light. Then, make a hot wire, preferably straight off the battery or some other KNOWN RELIABLE source. At the last pluggable wiring harness connector to the left tail light, feed the connector with the hot wire, and look for whether the bulbs light up or not. This will at least isolate the wiring from everything in front of that last connector.

    IFF* the lights in the tail light assembly FAIL, then you've isolated your problem to the tail light fixture and environment itself. Pull the bulbs, inspect and test them. You can easily do this by wrapping a ground wire around the upper part of the bulb's barrel, then use your hot wire to touch each of the 2 terminals on the bulb.

    (*If and ONLY IF. This is mathematical shorthand BTW.)

    IFF the bulbs fail now, replace them.

    OR, if they work in your test harness, then check the sockets. You may rig a separate ground, connect it to a socket, and repeat the hot wire test. If the socket still fails with a known good bulb and good connection, then its time to either clean up and repair the socket, or replace it with a known good one.

    If your sockets, with good bulbs now and good grounds work with your hot wire, then NOW is the time to test the line voltage at the connector for sure. Do so. If this fails, then you need to start working from the back to the front, testing at each and every connector for voltage. When you get voltage at a connnector, then you can isolate the wiring down line from that, test with a continuity tester for a short circuit or an open circuit. Since you've not reported blown fuses yet, we might surmise you may have an open circuit, caused by a broken conductor or connector/ Both are failure prone after half a century, but attend SPECIALLY TO THE CONNECTOR at this point. You can try running a jumper from the last known good wire directly to the tail light, then test for function again. If it now works, you can discard the bad wiring, or fix it.

    I actually ENJOY electrical troubleshooting, and did so well both as an electrician and then in software, as a Code Whorrior for Raytheon Missile Cystems. Alas, my religious/philosophical positions don't suit the moneybags in this quarter of the Lord's Creation, and I've since been blessed with a bride I prayed for, to the letter, and live a FAR happier life troubleshooting my own property. But I pray to St. Joe that this helps you.
     
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  8. good golly

    good golly New Member

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    Thanks for all the help guys. I got the lights to work yesterday evening by wiggling the wires under the dash. I either have a loose connection or something going bad.
    Going to investigate further this afternoon. BTW, I hate electrical troubleshooting.
     
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  9. stubs300

    stubs300 Senior Member

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    And with mine, the Emer. Flasher works as advertised. Maybe I should go dick around and fidget with some wires, I might get lucky?
     
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  10. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    AH HA! Were you wiggling wires NEAR THE FUSEBOX? I have a dicky fuse clip in the box, for the very same circuit you suffered from. There's a pink wire leading from the box to feed the brake lights. When they cut out again, start with that one. Odds are, you have a corroded fuse clip at the end of that red/pink wire. There's a vendor of new fuse box clips, model specific for most of our rides. He gets about $40 for the set. I may one day avail myself of his wares. He sells brand new repop fuseboxes for $100.
     
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  11. Polara_500

    Polara_500 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Who is this?
     
  12. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    Check out the brake light switch connector
    You may have wiggled it enough to make things work
     
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  13. stubs300

    stubs300 Senior Member

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    Who'd a thunk it? Thanx Gerald, that makes sense after all this time! My schematic says the pink wire from the box splices into a red wire that goes from the stop switch & light switch. The other side of the stop switch wire goes to the directional switch. But there's still a lot of wiring going through the signal switch. God, I hate electrics!
     
  14. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    PI(w) where w represents the number of wiggles suggests that as w goes to infinity, you will find the correct wire and wiggle. Might take a little while, century or so, but its sound statistics. One of these daze, I should install an emergency flasher. I use the left turn signal; to that end for now. since the red LED brake light bar I set in the rear window is wired to the left turn as well. I like folks behind to have GOOD WARNING when I'm making a left turn, or stopping.
    This guy!:

    1963-1967 Chrysler Newport 300 New Yorker Fuse Block Clip Repair Package | eBay

    OR, this guy:

    Herb's Parts: 1963-67 Chrysler Fuse Block with Clips, Wiring Harnesses, FuseBlock5211(2)
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2021
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  15. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    Pity you don't have the obscene bread it would take to fly me to your digs so I could fix the wiring. I really have a good knack for this crap, always have. Both of my little girls inherited it too! I had Mathilda good and roadworthy within the day after the wire fire in April 2016 that toasted MUCH of the original harness. Saved what I could, redid the rest, no problems beyond that fuse box clip noteworthy since. Finally bought some orange primary wire. Most of these modern corporate jackoff vendors never stock it, as none of the knuckledraggers saavy Old Mopars. What a Wonderful Wurld this could be....
     
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  16. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    I recommend JEGs hydraulic brake light switch, which, w 1/8" NPT threads, easily threads into the old single pot MC, or into a suitable T for more modern brake systems. The switch is USA made, and had held up for me over a year, unlike the cheap, poor quality asiatic potmetal copies of such I tried prior. That damned mech switch was a regular pain in the fundament until I went hydraulic. This JEGs switch responds well too, which is the traditional objection to hydraulic switches. You might check into that.