No Oil Pressure In My 300

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. azblackhemi

    azblackhemi Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Went to start my 70 300 Vert project and have no oil pressure. I'm guessing the oil pump quit on it. Last time I started it a couple of months ago it was fine. Not what I wanted to find. :BangHead:
     
  2. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    Have you tried...
    Did you check...
    In 1967 the....
    Try Murray Park...
    I remember when...
    Had one just like that...
    I don't know, but if...
    Damn ethanol...
    Damn Chinese...
    Hillary...
     
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  3. C Body Bob

    C Body Bob Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Happened to my 440 Belvedere a couple months ago. Put a new filter on it with about half full of oil. Pulled dizzy & pump shaft. Primed pump & reinstalled dizzy. Purrs like a kitten. Seems to happen to big blocks that sit from my mulling around on the net.
     
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  4. Fury Pursuit

    Fury Pursuit Senior Member

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    Bummer....

    The good part is you can upgrade to a high volume pump! I'm sure you've done this before but in case you haven't. Just loosen the motor mount jack the engine up about 3/8" and the pump comes right out. Maybe there is a better way? If so.....let me know.

    Good luck Sir!
     
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  5. 1978 NYB

    1978 NYB Warfighter FCBO Gold Member

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    Thermostat.....

    :poke:
     
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  6. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    ^This^

    Or if it's not that... The oil pump drive shaft will sometimes shear it's pin to the distributor gear... or possibility the pickup is plugged with crap. Never seen a big block oil pump fail though.
     
  7. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    The hex fitting on the oil pump drive shaft will also sometimes break off, but that is a rare failure. As suggested above, remove the distributor and the drive shaft for the pump and try spinning up the pump to see if it will generate pressure, replace the oil filter first. If you still have a plastic faced timing gear, the pickup screen could be clogged with debris. The other thing that happens on big blocks that sit for long periods of time is that valve guides will rust up, this can lead to a stuck valve that breaks or badly bends a push rod. If the push rod gets disengaged from the lifter, the lifter will pop up out of the housing and no oil pressure will result.

    Dave
     
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  8. azblackhemi

    azblackhemi Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Thanks guys. Tomorrow I'll pull the distributor and see what's going on.
     
  9. stubs300

    stubs300 Senior Member

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    I had this happen to me after doing a oil change, check the hex on your dist. gear shaft. Damedist thing I ever saw! Good Luck
     
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  10. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    As a follow up. it is usually easier to rotate the crankshaft to TDC. That way you can reinstall the pump drive shaft per the FSM so you can get the timing close.

    Dave
     
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  11. Turboomni

    Turboomni Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Ballast resistor,,,,,,





    :rolleyes:
     
  12. bluefury361

    bluefury361 Old Man with a Hat

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    Are you sure you didn't have oil pressure? Jezebelle's oil light came on while driving, a couple times. Scared me to death. Shut her down and pilled off the road. Oil level OK, all looked good. Restarted and no engine noise even though the light stayed on. Then it went off and all was well.
     
  13. azblackhemi

    azblackhemi Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Completely sure Will. The start up clatter didn't go away after a few seconds and when I pulled the dipstick the oil level was just like I pulled it cold.
     
  14. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    How come @detmatt hasn't asked about checking your rod length...
     
  15. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    It NEVER hurts to check it.
     
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  16. fury fan

    fury fan Senior Member

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    Startup clatter?
    To make a summary statement that piles onto what the other guys have said:
    Oil pumps just don't fail from 1 day to the next whilst sitting. They may lose prime, or something else. But they don't quit like a lightbulb (under normal usage).
    And the #1 rule in diagnosing a pump - it can't move fluid if it cannot get fluid.
     
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  17. Verse

    Verse Member

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    pull the distributor and spin the oil pump drive until you feel resistance. If you never get resistance, meaning the oil is flowing, something is broken.
     
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  18. commando1

    commando1 Mr. Normal FCBO Gold Member

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    Told ya's... hat-gif.gif
    :lol:
    I'll add my two cents... The immediate first thing I WOULD do is to pull the pump and go from there.
     
  19. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    Used to have to prime my pump every time I changed the oil. I used petroleum jelly to prime the pump, and that worked nicely, but pulling the pump after every oil change got OLD.

    Then I started running 10-30w instead of 10-40w. Haven't had to prime the pump since then.

    I had this epiphany after reading up on how Mopar (Veertman) designed the oiling system for lower viscosity oils and that these really are to be preferred over the popular 10-40w or worse, 20-50w stuff.

    One of these daze, I WILL pull the oil pan and replace the pickup screen and such. But so long as Tilly ticks along w 10-30W Rotella T5, I'm not going to disturb a happy status quo.
     
  20. 1978 NYB

    1978 NYB Warfighter FCBO Gold Member

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    Chris, have you been able to zero in on the oil pressure problem yet?