No Spark after unplugging coil wire...FIXED!!!!

JEP

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So i was trying to time my 66 Newport 383, with Summit electronic ignition conversion, in the process i disconnected the coil wire and now I dont have spark. The car was running when i disconnected the coil. The timing light was sporadic so i wiggled the coil wire and it came off. Engine died and will not restart. I tried a different coil and nothing. Could that have ruined the ignition module?

All ideas appreciated!
Thanks
Jason
 

65_Polara

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If you turned the key to the off position pretty shortly thereafter, I wouldn't think so. You basically just created the same condition that the ECU sees every time the rotor finds itself between two poles in the cap (coil charging). I know Pertronix units don't like to see voltage when the coil isn't being regularly discharged--which is why they say not to leave the key in the run position for more than 30 seconds when the car isn't running. I'm not sure if these new IC chip ECUs are the same or not. The old ones used a FET and could take a little more abuse, I think.
 
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65_Polara

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Are you running a ballast resistor or using a coil with an internal primary resistance? The old ECUs would stand up to a full 12V in "RUN" whereas--for the reasons stated above--I don't believe the new ones will.
 

Davea Lux

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Take a voltmeter and run a continuity test on the coil wire. Odds are the coil wire may have gotten damaged when you removed it. As noted above while you are at it run a voltage test on the ballast resistor if so equipped. The module should not burn out that quickly unless it was defective to begin with, always a possibility if the unit is made in china.

Dave
 

JEP

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Are you running a ballast resistor or using a coil with an internal primary resistance? The old ECUs would stand up to a full 12V in "RUN" whereas--for the reasons stated above--I don't believe the new ones will.
I am running a ballast resistor. I will check the coil wire tomorrow lets hope its that simple.
 

JEP

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In your first post you said you wiggled the coil wire and it came off.
Yes i wiggled it, it disconnected from the coil and the car quit running. After reinstalling the coil wire, no start no spark
 

mopar440

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Take a voltmeter and run a continuity test on the coil wire. Odds are the coil wire may have gotten damaged when you removed it. As noted above while you are at it run a voltage test on the ballast resistor if so equipped. The module should not burn out that quickly unless it was defective to begin with, always a possibility if the unit is made in china.

Dave
When you do this, be careful not to hold the leads on the ends. The reading can travel through your body, throwing your measurements off. Use sometype of clamps
 

JEP

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Ok fired up today with all the same components, apparently this is a heat issue. I started it, timed it, shut it off and then it would not restart. any thoughts on where to go. all items are new. New dist.,new coil, new ballast resistor, new plugs.
 

Big_John

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Ok fired up today with all the same components, apparently this is a heat issue. I started it, timed it, shut it off and then it would not restart. any thoughts on where to go. all items are new. New dist.,new coil, new ballast resistor, new plugs.
Did you change these items because of this problem? Or was it after you swapped parts?

Double check the wiring, check the air gap in the distributor. Swap the old coil back and see what happens.
 

JEP

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I just replaced as all the stuff had been sitting since the late 70's. it had a bent pushrod so I fixed that, new radiator, fuel tank, fuel pump, carb. I did ammeter bypass as well. I do not know how to check air gap in dist. but will search that. thanks for all info and leads. have had this 4 years just trying to enjoy it
 

JEP

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So, how do i check ignition switch, and can it get hot? I have a see through spark tool on No. 1 cylinder, car fires right. after it gets hot, if you try to restart right away it will start. If you wait 5 minutes no spark, sometimes it will flash a spark as im turning to off position. It will sound like it fired but as its turning off.
Also would it start on a 6v coil. i have 1.8 on ressitance. With the key in the ON position i have 13.4 volts at coil. This is a summit racing electronic conversion.
I have a factory replacement coil. The voltage regulator is out of a 72 new yorker. New plugs and wires. I have tried 2 other coils, two other coil wires, no difference.
 
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Big_John

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So, how do i check ignition switch, and can it get hot? I have a see through spark tool on No. 1 cylinder, car fires right. after it gets hot, if you try to restart right away it will start. If you wait 5 minutes no spark, sometimes it will flash a spark as im turning to off position. It will sound like it fired but as its turning off.
Also would it start on a 6v coil. i have 1.8 on ressitance. With the key in the ON position i have 13.4 volts at coil

Run a jumper wire from the battery to the +side of the coil and try it. This will bypass (hot wire) everything in the ignition switch and all the wiring. Once it's running, take the wire off the battery and see if it still runs.

Pay no attention to "6 volt coil". That's some BS that the auto parts stores do. It's all about the primary resistance. You should use whatever primary resistance coil that the Summit kit specs.

It should start and run on about any coil, but if the primary resistance is wrong and the coil is getting hot, well... that can be a problem.
 

JEP

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Sorry it took so long to get back. The air gap on the distributor was set wider than .030. After adjusting to .008 it seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks to all who gave advice. Now i can take her on the maiden voyage........and see what else needs fixed. Also thanks Big John for air gap procedure link.
 
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