77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
Another thing that it does to add context is, when it is warming up at high idle, cycles through being very lopey and then running very smooth, each for about 30 seconds each
No-Start with New Ignition
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77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
I doubt this is related, but there is a wire that runs into a white strip (kinda looks like a resister) which goes to another wire to the choke heater. I unplugged it as the White strip was smoking, and the choke still opens normally. I have uet to plug it back in, trying to learn more about what that resistor strip is
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Get an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the white strip, note the size of the wire feeding it, and try to identify the white strip from a parts catalog or the FSM. Take a pic of this mysterious white strip, and post it, so WE can see it, and likely somebody will ID it for you. Once you know what its supposed to be, you can ascertain whether it's functioning properly, A smoking resistor isn't necessarily a bad thing, but you need to KNOW what that thing is for, and all the specification data available about it.
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
Pulled #1 plug, pretty heavy carbon deposits, also wanted to show what floor looks like. Presumably running too rich? Could be part of the problem?
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
And here is a picture of that resistor, the end thst is plugged in goes to the choke heater.
Electric choke control is an electric aid to heat up the bimetallic coil and get idle faster when warming from cold
Being that it is an aid, it is not mandatory to hook it up, just will take longer to get idle, because bimetallic coil will still be heated up by the manifold heat source.
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
Awesome, any thoughts on the giant carbon deposits?
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
Talking to my dad about it now, I wanted to add that this missfire issue has been going on for about 4 weeks now, prior to the ingition and carb swap. However, this issue is not constant. It started after my mechanic tuned it, but went away, and then came back a week later, leading me to replace the ignition. Then, it ran really nicely until about a week ago. So this issue seems to come and go. I may be wrong, but I feel a timing chain/bent valve would be constant. I also think it is heavily carbon fouling the plugs, which could contribute to the miss. Perhaps a hotter plug would work, I'm not so sure about that though. This is alot, but I just wanted to get all my thoughts out there
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Hotter plugs can be used up to a point! I have some fouling on cylinders which get too much oil from the valve guides. So, every 2-4 weeks, I pull the plugs on those cylinders, and hit them with a wire brush, or an emery board. If they're too far gone, I replace them. Now, are ALL your plugs fouling out? Or just some? Also, your fuel/air mixture indeed may be rich, but that can easily be verified and corrected somewhat by leaning out the idle jet screws. Do so, and watch the vacuum as you do. Turn them in until the idle starts to stumble, then crank thgem about a half turn out from that. Check your vacuum. See if you can pull any more then by turning the screws in about 1/8 of a turn at a time, while watching your vacuum gauge. Also, turn the idle screw on the carb UP a bit, to get the motor to rev a little more while leaning out the idle jet screws.
The above technique works well for me getting through Emissions down here; a nasty business I must address annually now that I'm driving a 1968 ride.
You can bump your plugs up one notch to get them hotter, but go no further with that until you've tuned everything else up well. check your FSM for your model and setup. DON'T run it too hot, lest you get detonation. Check your dwell, timing et al. Keep that dwell as close to 30 degrees as you can.
ALSO, check to be sure you're getting good spark from that distributor! Electronic ignition? See that your ECM is good, and check the reluctor on the dizzie. How are your plug wires? Is the cap good? Cracked distributor caps certainly can bedevil your ignition.
I run such a nice, old fashioned Kettering (breaker points) ignition with copper core wires and such that my only usual concern is when the points, or occasionally the condenser goes south every few kilo-miles. I also sometimes must re-terminate the wires. I now have an old old Rjah terminal set with crimper. WONDERFUL TOOL! But if you're doing a high high voltage electronic setup, you'll need to allow for that in how you wire and terminate. Greater rigor needed.
Get a timing light on that motor now too. If this problem has been sneaking up, then going away, it COULD even be the damper getting old. Watch it under the strobe. I see signs I will AGAIN have to replace what is on my old motor. If so, I'm going for a brand new, warranted damper this time. When that rubber elastomer gets over 50 yrs, it can crack up pretty quick, just with the slightest stress.
What is the condition of your carb. it could be that the O rings in the floats wells are leaking, also the float well have small cups glued to the bottom. The glue can break down over years and with aggressive cleaning of carb during rebuild. At mass rebuilders the bodies get tossed around and can cause the small cups to be cracked loose. This will cause over rich conditions and may show up intermittently. You can check this out by lifting carb and having a look inside intake manifold before starting or touching any throttle, look at bottom of carb for fuel wetness and inside intake.
Stick with the electronic ignition, it is a very reliable simple system. The smoke from ballast resistor will happen when new, but only then unless you have greasy hands on it.
Stick with the electronic ignition, it is a very reliable simple system. The smoke from ballast resistor will happen when new, but only then unless you have greasy hands on it.
Off hand I'd say she's running rich...so much so that you're fouling plugs, which could be the intermittent popping you're hearing. I'd quickly pop off the cap and make sure nothing is bent and then start by pulling cleaning and re-gapping & re-installing the plugs and listen for the popping...if it goes away, then I'd say it was likely fouled plugs and not something else.
Those big stains make it look like it's crazy rich, but may not be as "bad" as you think. Did you drill drain holes in your exhaust? Factory exhaust had little holes drilled in low spots so that the water from condensation could drain. Without the drains, the water builds up and then gets blown out the back and it's always black with carbon and creates what you have there.
The black spots on the floor are probably condensate, as @Mr C has said. I wouldn't get too worked up about it. I think there are stains like that behind my cars
The black plugs are another story. That does mean it's too rich... and that could be a number of things. You could have a choke set too rich comes to mind first... and if all you've been doing is idling it in the garage or pulling it in and out of the garage, the over rich choke could be really hurting you....
But that's only one theory.
You've never said (or at least I didn't see) what carb you used. Was it a rebuild or new replacement? You could have some internal leaks or the carb is just too rich for the application.
If you've just been idling the car a lot, I'd be tempted (if it were me) to put a fresh set in and go drive the car and see what happens.
The black plugs are another story. That does mean it's too rich... and that could be a number of things. You could have a choke set too rich comes to mind first... and if all you've been doing is idling it in the garage or pulling it in and out of the garage, the over rich choke could be really hurting you....
But that's only one theory.
You've never said (or at least I didn't see) what carb you used. Was it a rebuild or new replacement? You could have some internal leaks or the carb is just too rich for the application.
If you've just been idling the car a lot, I'd be tempted (if it were me) to put a fresh set in and go drive the car and see what happens.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Plugs are easy to swap, and a new set will be easier to read. All will be clean, so you have a baseline to work with.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
You have a rich condition. Is the choke coming off all the way. Is the pull off (small vacuum pot on passenger side rear of carb) opening the choke plate a small amount after the car starts. See if it is dripping fuel after you shut it off. If so you can have a few problems with a TQ that a mass rebuilder may not handle.
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
Carb was mass rebuilt by autoline, not so sure of quality
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
Okay, would it be possible to put on the lean burn carb, or would that not work. It was rebuilt by Dana, so I am sure of quality. I'm just not sure if it would be okay without the ELB ingition
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
2,7,8-Wet with Fuel
1,3,4,5,6-Heavy Carbon
1,3,4,5,6-Heavy Carbon
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77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
Okay, so here is an update. Put the new plugs and the vacuum gauge on, and got it to pull about 15 in Hg of vacuum. Started turning the screws, couldn't get more out of it. Ran it around the block and it was misfiring like crazy. Driver side screw was 4 turns out, pass. side two turns out. Set both to two turns and it ran better, and even better with both at 2.5 turns out. Now runs pretty good, slight misfire/backfire rarely off idle, perfect idle, and a vibration (almost like a dead cylinder) off idle. Power feels pretty good. Also, when sitting, the idle modulates and changes quite a bit, not sure if this is the right description but it almost feels like the idle surges and revs up and then drops back down.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Look down the carburetor when idling so if liquid fuel is dropping into venturis or very wet on the end of nozzle in the booster.
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
Pulled #1 plug this morning, very nice burn, and not too much carbon. It started up nicely, but had to shut it off cause that choke relay started smoking really bad agin. New one of those on the way
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