No turning back...451 first steps..

flyinbrick68

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Well no shops around here wanna deal with turning cranks sooo...this homemade junk is either a great first step or a catastrophic mistake....here we go started clearancing my 413 crank for my 400

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ooff.. You clearance the block not the counter weights.. And it's the main bearings you have to have turned down rather than the counter weights. Best of luck.
 
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ooff.. You clearance the block not the counter weights.. And it's the main bearings you have to have turned down rather than the counter weights. Best of luck.
Had the mains turned down awhile ago i'll have to see if it fits and how much to clearance it. If it does we'll see later if it balances... might be a paperweight. I was just going off what i've read so far.
 
Crank will be unbalanced now too, will need custom balancing to compensate for the loss of metal.
Ive got forged rods and pistons to go with it. Haven't been balanced yet so we'll see how it goes! I know it's amateur hour with me trying this and redneck engineering isn't probably the best but a guys gotta try! Either way it's a learning experience for me and that's never a bad thing!
 
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I doubt that crank can be rebalanced because the material removed from the counter weights is more than you can safely drill out on the throw side. side. You now have an interesting lamp.

Dave
 
OK, I'll bite and and be the Devil's advocate and ask the question since no one else will. Why'd you go and ruin a perfectly good crank when you could've bought a bolt and go 451 stroker kit????
Stroker Kits-440 Source
 
Any shops that can balance it? If they have to use Mallory metal it can be pricey. If it can be balanced, it will need the journals polished
 
Its been sitting for about 3 or 4 years up yup sadly she's got a bit of surface rust. I'll try some wd and see if that helps a bit. Hopefully it fits when i mock it up.
 
The counterweights do have to be turned down and that is why nobody wants to do that crank for you. It beats the crap out the lathe.

For not a lot more than what it will cost to finish that crank you could have had a 511.

Kevin
 
Yeah- it’s not a lamp but you still need to reduce the diameter of the counterweights and that does take a bit of time. I’d have a shop do that but you could do it by hand with enough time. Balancing is no big deal- your parts are much lighter than factory stuff.
 
KB makes a set of hypereutectic pistons for the 3.75 in a low deck. Yours are way beyond that.
The crank work and balancing make it hardly worth it for almost no CID gain, but monetary value and good cents is not what these cars are about so carry on.
 
The counterweights do have to be turned down and that is why nobody wants to do that crank for you. It beats the crap out the lathe.
Yep, there is some clearancing required to fit the 413/440 crank into the 400 block, and the material that I read said that it's simpler to do that on the counterweights than the block. IIRC, I thought it was just one or two of the counterweights. I probably wouldn't try that myself with an angle grinder though!
 
If you lighten the pistons and rods ( anything is lighter than stock RB stuff) you can lose a 1/4" in diameter of the counterweights.
 
The affected counterweight(s) only need to be chamfered along one edge to provide the required clearance.

They usually turn at least .250 off the counter weights. This accomplishes 2 things, allows the crank to actually go in the block and reduces rotational weight. You could also offset turn the rods to give you 3.90 stroke and make a 470 but again you're most of the way to a NEW crank.

Kevin
 
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