OEM style Alternator regulators

FuryGT is selling the same thing for 19.95 w/ free shipping in the US. He'll have some at Carlisle.
 
Hallo Wollfen

I installed this type of regulator three years ago and it worked perfect so far.

Franco
 
FuryGT is selling the same thing for 19.95 w/ free shipping in the US. He'll have some at Carlisle.

Thanks guys for the posts. Just look for the Avocado Green 68 Sport Fury with a black vinyl top, a white stripe, Magnum 500's a big lime green tent behind it. If I am not at my car, my wife likely will be and $15.00 cash will get you one at Carlisle.

Bill
 
If you have upgraded to Electronic Ignig; they wont work worth crap! Upgrade that pos and READ the notes!

There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a per-1970 system to a transistorized voltage regulator. The list of reason include
Chrysler recommends you switch to a transistorized VR if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistorized unit. Not to mention, the quality of replacement early style VR's is spotty.
The transistorized VR will have a longer life.
Below is a diagram describing how to install a 70 and later Voltage Regulator on a sixties mopar.
charging system overview
 
If you have upgraded to Electronic Ignig; they wont work worth crap! Upgrade that pos and READ the notes!

There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a per-1970 system to a transistorized voltage regulator. The list of reason include
Chrysler recommends you switch to a transistorized VR if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistorized unit. Not to mention, the quality of replacement early style VR's is spotty.
The transistorized VR will have a longer life.
Below is a diagram describing how to install a 70 and later Voltage Regulator on a sixties mopar.
charging system overview

Stubs300. If you are referring to the Solid State Voltage Regulators that I sell, I'm not sure where you are coming from, what you are reading and must say that you are very mistaken. I have been selling these for 15+ years and my friends and I have been using these on our cars with Electronic Ignition for longer than that and they work fine. These work just fine with electronic ignition systems and since the mechanical voltage regulators do not work with. If they did not work with electronic ignition systems I don't think that my feedback would be perfect nor would I be an eBay Power Seller.

From my eBay listing: "This is a direct replacement for the factory mechanical voltage regulator. It uses the same connectors as the factory voltage regulators and can be used with either an electronic ignition or a points type ignition system."

Yes, the '70 & up style voltage regulator is a better design but you also need to buy the harness and do some rewiring. If you want your car to look stock, you then have to hide the '70 & up voltage regulator.
 
Yes, the '70 & up style voltage regulator is a better design but you also need to buy the harness and do some rewiring. If you want your car to look stock, you then have to hide the '70 & up voltage regulator.

You also have to have an isolated field (sometimes incorrectly called dual field) '70 & up alternator.
 
I got one of these from Bill a while back after continuously having to replace the original style voltage regulators every couple of years. I know it hasn't been that long since I put it in, but it immediately solved my dim headlights and my gauge showing a discharge when using my turn signals or brakes. Everything now works as it should, my gauge no longer shows a discharge, ever, and my headlights are always nice and bright, like they should be. I am a big fan of these electronic voltage regulators and I have been running electronic ignition since I got the car back in 2004. In fact, switching to electronic ignition was the first thing I did because I wanted the improved reliability and performance you get with electronic ignition.
 
Say what you want or will. I have had problems with those in the past and said screw it, and have never looked back. Maybe somewhere between mine and yours being developed have fixed the problem? I still stand that those are P's of S and are worthless! Your entitled to your opinion, I'm entitled to mine, because I speak from experience.
 
I have been installing and using the electronic look a like for years and no problems.
 
Thanks Fury! Just bought one from your ebay store. I was cleaning up my wiring under the hood this weekend, and noticed my VR looks like some type of cheap plastic or something. I didn't install it, came with the car when I bought her last year.

On a side note, my battery charges fine for the first 20 minutes or so, but then voltage starts to drop to like 12volts, battery, (new) not charging. Let things cool off for a couple hours...charging works, 20 or so minutes later, driving around...battery not charging. Not many components to check. I did see inside the alternator, the windings look black/burnt, but not all over. On my Harley few years ago, the VR went out, causing stator to work too hard I think, and cooked the windings, (black). Kinda the same thing here maybe. Thoughts??
 
Thanks Fury! Just bought one from your ebay store. I was cleaning up my wiring under the hood this weekend, and noticed my VR looks like some type of cheap plastic or something. I didn't install it, came with the car when I bought her last year.

On a side note, my battery charges fine for the first 20 minutes or so, but then voltage starts to drop to like 12volts, battery, (new) not charging. Let things cool off for a couple hours...charging works, 20 or so minutes later, driving around...battery not charging. Not many components to check. I did see inside the alternator, the windings look black/burnt, but not all over. On my Harley few years ago, the VR went out, causing stator to work too hard I think, and cooked the windings, (black). Kinda the same thing here maybe. Thoughts??

Thank you for your purchase. As noted in my email, will ship today. I think you are on the right track. Have the alternator tested. Check the voltage at the battery under various conditions. Once charged, the battery should read around 13.8 volts. I'm not sure where and how you are checking the voltage but sometimes gauges are inaccurate. After you replace the voltage regulator test voltage before you start, after you start, when you turn on the headlights and after a 20 - 30 minute drive.
 
Hey Fury....installed the new VR today from you. Works like a champ!! Charging voltage at 1200RPM is right at 14.8ish. After an hour of driving, and heat...voltages stayed constant. No issues with loosing charging volts as VR heated up like the old VR did. Thanks again!!
 
Hey Fury....installed the new VR today from you. Works like a champ!! Charging voltage at 1200RPM is right at 14.8ish. After an hour of driving, and heat...voltages stayed constant. No issues with loosing charging volts as VR heated up like the old VR did. Thanks again!!

I am very happy to hear that this voltage regulator solved your problem.
 
I am very happy to hear that this voltage regulator solved your problem.

Been running with your VR over 2 yrs now, sans so much as a blip. Stable performance for an excellent price. I'll get another one when we get another mid 60s Mopar, be sure of it.
 
Been running with your VR over 2 yrs now, sans so much as a blip. Stable performance for an excellent price. I'll get another one when we get another mid 60s Mopar, be sure of it.

Thanks Gerald! I have been running these on my cars for around 15 years, possibly more with problems. Glad you are happy with the voltage regulator.

For those attending Carlisle this year, I will be selling them in row A, spaces 67 - 68 along with a bunch of other stuff.
 
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