OEM Style Replacement Radiator 71 300

RS23VOA

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What's everyone using for replacement radiators? I don't want to spend $650 to get the original recored. 1971 Chrysler 300, 3 row. I tried a 956 I had laying around and it didn't fit.
Thanks.
 
The old "industry number" for a 26" Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth radiator used to be "332"? Which would usually be "the part number" itself or the vendor would have "332" as a part of their part number.
 
I found part MOP750A, listed for $412 on their site. Good for 66-74 A,B,C,E Bodies. I think they used to give a discount if you mentioned forcbodies . I had to elongate 1 hole, but other than that, I'm happy with it.
 
So... I developed a leak in my radiator. Shopped around to get it recored, ( to keep original), however, that turns out to be $$$$$. So, as I don't have a Hemi Cuda going to auction, I looked at aftermarket. Read the thread on Cold Case and decided to give them a try.
The good:
Priced reasonably
Nice support when I called.
Very nice product,
Made to fit my 69 300.

The bad:
I had to elongate one slot, top passenger side
My tranny fittings were 1/8" thread cold Case takes 1/4"..
Shroud mounts us a 6 mm screw, and I could only get 4 out of 6 to line up.

Now, none of the above is a deal breaker, just info for future reference. I plan to call them tomorrow and give them my specs from my car. Maybe something they can adjust for.

After install, I test drove, 88 degrees today, in traffic...temp never busted 190.
For the money, the above adjustments were no big deal. I would recommend Cold Case
Pics show slot and installed, and temp.

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Some things changed for the 1971 model year. I suspect it might have to do with the hose orientations and such? Cold Case is a great option, but they can be a bit more expensive and I realize you are in Europe, too.

Getting a new core for your radiator should not be a real issue, BUT how thin the edges of the tank CAN be. Especially if the radiator has been re-cored a time or two previously, the cleaning solution they use prior to applying the sealing solder (which needs to be OEM quality, rather than generic, for long-term best results) will erode/thin those tank edges, which can make it harder to get a good seal without the metal cracking.

At this time, both the copper radiators (Industry part number "332") can be good but the aluminum variations are also very popular. Only thing is that with the welded aluminum radiators, I highly suspect that when they get to where they are clogged, they can be recycled as a unit and a new one sourced. Just as with body sheet metal "joining", the use of lead in vehicle production has been pretty much eliminated. Same with heater cores, radiators, and such. BTAIM

There are some YouiTube videos on the ColdCase radiators and what can make them a good option compared to other brands.

DO make sure that whatever you might get has the correct mounts on the sides! And will use a factory fan shroud!

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
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