Oil Changes on older cars

craigl

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Is there a consensus regarding oil on these Plymouths? should i stay with conventional or switch to full synthetic? Any advice is appreciated!
 

Big_John

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The consensus is to use a high zinc oil to keep lifter/cam wear to a minimum. How you get there, meaning what your favorite oil is, is subject to personal favorites.

I use Brad Penn oil, now called Penngrade. Its a semi-synthetic oil made for such use. Some use other "racing oils" or even Rotella diesel oil to get the higher zinc.
 

polara66hardtop

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I use the Valvoline VR oil with zinc designed for old flat tappet engines. I buy it on line and is reaasonably priced. I used to buy rotella diesel, but I didn't care for the viscosity. And I wanted to be sure about the actual zinc cintent.
 

CBODY67

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I generally like to use what's available locally "on the shelf" at WalMart or chain auto supply stores. I swithced to Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic with no issues. By observation, WalMart seems to be the least expensive place to get motor oil, locally. High zddp (still) and decent pricing for a full-syn oil. The local WalMart recently started carrying a Castrol (black bottle) syn motor oil, "SL" rating (which should be 1000+ppm zddp). I might consider that one, too. By observation, most of the Euro diesels spec an "SL" oil. That it's full-syn is a plus, too. I believe that Summit Racing has the Brad Penn oils, maybe even Joe Gibbs motor oil.

Viscosity-wise, when the cars were new, straight-weight 30 or 10W-30 dino oils were commonly used. In the later 1960s, then some went to 10W-40 oil.

Best to buy the oil with the most zddp, when possible. Cost rises significantly when you start adding additives to the oil change.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

craigl

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I use the Valvoline VR oil with zinc designed for old flat tappet engines. I buy it on line and is reaasonably priced. I used to buy rotella diesel, but I didn't care for the viscosity. And I wanted to be sure about the actual zinc cintent.

a guy I was talking to at the Oreilly suggested I use that Valvoline VR stuff. He said something about "zinc" and older cars - its 20W-50! but thats exactly what the bottle says.
 

Davea Lux

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a guy I was talking to at the Oreilly suggested I use that Valvoline VR stuff. He said something about "zinc" and older cars - its 20W-50! but thats exactly what the bottle says.

20W-50W was a popular racing oil for loosely fitted race engines back in the day. I probably would not run that oil in a street engine unless it burned a lot of oil with lighter weights. The Valvoline VR series of oils is available in several grades and all of them have adequate zinc. A cheaper alternative is Valvoline 15-40, Shell Rottela 15-40 or Chevron Delo 15-40. These are diesel service oils with high zinc content for flat tapped engines. The Jack Penn oils are also a good choice.

Dave
 

496 polara

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My local NAPA carries Lucas oils as well. They have a muscle car oil with extra zinc that I was using in my 360.
 

Turboomni

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Valvoline VR oil comes in 10W30 too. That's all I use.
 

craigl

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20W-50W was a popular racing oil for loosely fitted race engines back in the day. I probably would not run that oil in a street engine unless it burned a lot of oil with lighter weights. The Valvoline VR series of oils is available in several grades and all of them have adequate zinc. A cheaper alternative is Valvoline 15-40, Shell Rottela 15-40 or Chevron Delo 15-40. These are diesel service oils with high zinc content for flat tapped engines. The Jack Penn oils are also a good choice.

Dave
interesting turn of events here... i think. the one modification i did to this car was with the exhaust. I had a dual exhaust added. well, apparently when we did this it placed the oil filter was a little too close to the exhaust line - in my opinion. usually when i see stuff close to exhaust components there is a lot of that heat tape/wrap used. well, i do not have any of that. what i did do, however, was buy a little less "tall" oil filter. i got a shorter WixXP filter. it has the exact same gasket and/or lid dimensions as the one that was on it. i think im being clever but if anyone knows otherwise please slap me now!!
 

Davea Lux

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interesting turn of events here... i think. the one modification i did to this car was with the exhaust. I had a dual exhaust added. well, apparently when we did this it placed the oil filter was a little too close to the exhaust line - in my opinion. usually when i see stuff close to exhaust components there is a lot of that heat tape/wrap used. well, i do not have any of that. what i did do, however, was buy a little less "tall" oil filter. i got a shorter WixXP filter. it has the exact same gasket and/or lid dimensions as the one that was on it. i think im being clever but if anyone knows otherwise please slap me now!!

The short Mopar oil filter was used on the later big block engines because the belt pattern changed about '76 to accommodate a smog pump on some engines, did not seem to cause any problems as long as service intervals were maintained.

Dave
 

Big_John

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interesting turn of events here... i think. the one modification i did to this car was with the exhaust. I had a dual exhaust added. well, apparently when we did this it placed the oil filter was a little too close to the exhaust line - in my opinion. usually when i see stuff close to exhaust components there is a lot of that heat tape/wrap used. well, i do not have any of that. what i did do, however, was buy a little less "tall" oil filter. i got a shorter WixXP filter. it has the exact same gasket and/or lid dimensions as the one that was on it. i think im being clever but if anyone knows otherwise please slap me now!!
Chrysler also had a right angle filter adaptor for the small block that lets you use a long filter and possibly angle it away from the exhaust. I think they are still available from other sources or buy used and get new gaskets. Google "mopar right angle filter adaptor".
 

polara66hardtop

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a guy I was talking to at the Oreilly suggested I use that Valvoline VR stuff. He said something about "zinc" and older cars - its 20W-50! but thats exactly what the bottle says.
the oil I purchase says 10-30 VR1 High Zinc Racing oil, available only thru walmart when I went looking for it, as no stores in the area carry it.
 

tfrogh

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Is there a consensus regarding oil on these Plymouths? should i stay with conventional or switch to full synthetic? Any advice is appreciated!
My '72 never cracked open 360ci ran the best when I switched to Lucas Oil Hot Rod and Classic 10w40. It has all the additives old cars require. I used to buy by the 5gal jug of Amazon, but I believe Walmart sells it.
 

marty koirtyohann

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Is there a consensus regarding oil on these Plymouths? should i stay with conventional or switch to full synthetic? Any advice is appreciated!
i wouldnt . it may leak like made . the full synthetic the oil molecule r all the same size causung leaks like made while the conventional oil has differant size molecules i would be putting a high zinc oil in it , it will do more to stop ware im ==n the older motor i use shell Rotella 15w40 then the next oil change i use Valvoline 20w50 i have 40k on my mild mp cam 440 it uses no oil @ all

jean in her towing garb (2).jpg


jeans motor .jpg
 

CBODY67

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ALL of the old rubberized cork or pure cork gaskets which seal oily fluids will eventually start to seep, by observation. Some dino oils have more thinner components in them than others do, which relates to the brand of the motor oil, not specifically that it's dino or syn. Which is why some brands of oils would cause valve cover gasket leaks in engines and others were less prone to leak, by observation. Might have also had something to do with the viscosity of the oil, too?

My late machine shop operative noted that you wanted a motor oil that might cause oil leaks. The thinner factions of the oil were getting places that other oils might not get, he noted. Which is why his old pickup truck would have a valve cover gasket leak with one brand of motor oil and when he changed to another brand, that leak would dry up. He bought whatever oil was on sale at the local auto supply, one case at a time, back then.

Once the oil wicking action into and through the cork-material gaskets starts, it might be slowed a bit by tightening the hold-down bolts more, but most probably not. Which is why valve covers almost always have indentions under the hold down bolt heads!

At one time, some claimed that the syn oils would compromise rubber lip seals in the engine. As in timing cover front crankshaft seals. I'm not sure that was universally true, though, although at one time, Valvoline recommended their syn oils for engines built after 1975 or so, which I read on one of their old oil bottles in the 1990s. Many people have changed to syn oil in their older engines with no issues, though. I don't know that I would put it in an older engine with lots of sludge and gunk in it though, but if that engine had been rebuilt, THEN it might be a good decision. Several variables to consider.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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