rexus31
Senior Member
Does anyone employ an oil extractor for oil changes vs. jacking the car up and draining through the drain plug?
Oil Extractor vs. Drain Plug
- Thread starter rexus31
- Start date
rkrochen
Senior Member
I use one for my boat and it works well. Still I prefer to pull the plug so I can ensure it is properly drained and any sediment is removed.
Are you talking about the extractor that screws into the drain plug? Those usually leave about 1/2" of dirty oil in the bottom of the pan. I do not like them because I do not want any dirty oil left in the engine.
Dave
Dave
Newport 66
Old Man with a Hat
For me the proper regiment is: drive the vehicle until its fully warmed up, then drain the oil by removing the drain plug and let it drain until there is only a slow drip remaining, remove the filter immediately as well. Never believed in the extraction method. Just my opinion.
After I turned 50, my "hormones" decreased a good bit and the existing procrastination tendency increased. I used to really enjoy jacking the car up, getting the jack stands positioned, and draining the oil and such. But that became . . . add another quart and do it later. I got one of the hand pumps and it seemed to work pretty well. Only thing was the smaller tube was somewhat stiff and liked to stay curled, so getting it down the dipstick tube took some doing, but once I discovered that it would loosen up with engine heat, it was better.
The PROBLEM became that the smaller tube had to be inserted into a larger tube. After a few times, the small tube came loose and stayed in the oil pan. I used the dipstick to make sure it was not in the way of the dipstick itself. Never did hear any extra noise or find any small rubber gobs in the oil filter, so I suspect it softened and is on the bottom of the pan. So much for that.
Recently found an electric pump kit on Amazon. Haven't used it yet. Originally got it for the riding lawn mower and such, but can be used on my cars too.
What I'd noticed on the position of the engine oil pan drain plugs, they were ALWAYS ABOVE the lowest elevation of the oil pan. Even if just 1/4 inch. So, when I started doing my own oil changes on the '70 Monaco, I'd let the oil drain until it was just an occasional drop or warm oil, then I'd pour an extra quart of oil through the oil filler hole in the valve cover. The reason was that I figured it'd elevate the stuff that was residual in the bottom and help get more new oil down there. At the time, Castrol GTX was about $1.50/quart, so "why not?"
That remote control drain plug drain? I could not see that it had a positive-enough "closed" position, so it might drip and you wouldn't know it until "later".
ONE thing about oil drain plug bungs. I found a part number for one for a Buick 3800 V-6, so I ordered one. Nothing special, just a big nut, BUT with only about THREE threads that would actively engage the drain plug itself. Less than I'd ever figured!
In the '90s, GM went to a cast drain plug for the small block Chevy V-8s. It was obviously a bit soft as we sold lots replacements for stripped ones. Even had the parting lines for the mold on it. I'd look at the oil change history and if we'd done the last ones, I just gave the tech a new one and charged it to the shop. To me, NOT a normal maintenance item, especially if we'd done the last couple of oil changes.
So, NO excessive torque on the drain plug! Use one of the metal gasket with the rubber lip on the inner diameter for best results. Although those old white plastic ones worked well for years.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
The PROBLEM became that the smaller tube had to be inserted into a larger tube. After a few times, the small tube came loose and stayed in the oil pan. I used the dipstick to make sure it was not in the way of the dipstick itself. Never did hear any extra noise or find any small rubber gobs in the oil filter, so I suspect it softened and is on the bottom of the pan. So much for that.
Recently found an electric pump kit on Amazon. Haven't used it yet. Originally got it for the riding lawn mower and such, but can be used on my cars too.
What I'd noticed on the position of the engine oil pan drain plugs, they were ALWAYS ABOVE the lowest elevation of the oil pan. Even if just 1/4 inch. So, when I started doing my own oil changes on the '70 Monaco, I'd let the oil drain until it was just an occasional drop or warm oil, then I'd pour an extra quart of oil through the oil filler hole in the valve cover. The reason was that I figured it'd elevate the stuff that was residual in the bottom and help get more new oil down there. At the time, Castrol GTX was about $1.50/quart, so "why not?"
That remote control drain plug drain? I could not see that it had a positive-enough "closed" position, so it might drip and you wouldn't know it until "later".
ONE thing about oil drain plug bungs. I found a part number for one for a Buick 3800 V-6, so I ordered one. Nothing special, just a big nut, BUT with only about THREE threads that would actively engage the drain plug itself. Less than I'd ever figured!
In the '90s, GM went to a cast drain plug for the small block Chevy V-8s. It was obviously a bit soft as we sold lots replacements for stripped ones. Even had the parting lines for the mold on it. I'd look at the oil change history and if we'd done the last ones, I just gave the tech a new one and charged it to the shop. To me, NOT a normal maintenance item, especially if we'd done the last couple of oil changes.
So, NO excessive torque on the drain plug! Use one of the metal gasket with the rubber lip on the inner diameter for best results. Although those old white plastic ones worked well for years.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
rags
Senior Member
i leave 'em on the lift overnight with the plug out and the filter off. let all the oogly-woogly drain out.
71NewYorkMan
Member
I've used these on gensets and marine engines. May save you from having to wrench under the car if you can reach the valve while lying along side.
Depth of insertion could be controlled with a bushing.
F101S | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves
stubs300
Senior Member
Why use a extractor when you can just unscrew the plug? By reading some of the other comments, it seems like this is just another POS item that doesn't work worth a dam to waste your money!
rkrochen
Senior Member
It has its purposes but in my opinion is limited. I use it on my boat because you cannot reach the plug and if you did there is no way to drain it. The marinas do the same thing. I won’t use it in my car though because I want to insure I drain as much as possible.
Some quick lube places use them as well, not for me.
rexus31
Senior Member
Thanks for all the input.
The reason I asked this question is oil extractors are widely used in the DIY segment of the Jaguar F-Type community. With these cars being low to the ground and fitted with a skid plate, the preferred DIY oil change method is from the top via an extractor. Why DIY you ask? I just got back from Rusnak Jaguar Pasadena (selling dealer) who charged $243.35 for the oil change. Granted, it calls for 12 months or 15K miles (12 months for me; only 5,900 miles since I bought it) but it's still overpriced, IMO. I thought of taking it to an Independent Jaguar Shop but they do not use Jaguar-Land Rover spec oil (STJLR.51.5122 compliant) and with the car covered under CPO warranty for the term of my lease, I did not want to risk any potential denied engine warranty claims because I didn't use oil that met JLR spec. There are dyes in spec oil that are identified under blacklight. The dealer uses Castrol Edge Professional E which comes in at around $11 per quart. I could have sourced my own oil and filer online and taken it to the indy shop but it would have only saved me $30-$40 which was not worth my hassle. I considered investing in an oil extractor for future DIY oil changes if I was able to use it on my classics which would kill two birds with one stone: save me money on oil changes for the Jag and save the hassle of jacking up the Chrysler and GTO, getting out the jack stands and crawling under them. Getting one just for the Jag doesn't make sense as I would only use it two more times since it is a 3 year lease. I don't for see keeping the car long term as I'll most likely want something newer come 2021. Seeing as extracting the oil seems to be unpopular with classic cars I'll probably not invest in one. I'll bite the bullet two more times. In retrospect, I should have held out for a 2016 or newer F-Type (mine is 2015) as those come with complimentary scheduled maintenance. Live and learn.
The reason I asked this question is oil extractors are widely used in the DIY segment of the Jaguar F-Type community. With these cars being low to the ground and fitted with a skid plate, the preferred DIY oil change method is from the top via an extractor. Why DIY you ask? I just got back from Rusnak Jaguar Pasadena (selling dealer) who charged $243.35 for the oil change. Granted, it calls for 12 months or 15K miles (12 months for me; only 5,900 miles since I bought it) but it's still overpriced, IMO. I thought of taking it to an Independent Jaguar Shop but they do not use Jaguar-Land Rover spec oil (STJLR.51.5122 compliant) and with the car covered under CPO warranty for the term of my lease, I did not want to risk any potential denied engine warranty claims because I didn't use oil that met JLR spec. There are dyes in spec oil that are identified under blacklight. The dealer uses Castrol Edge Professional E which comes in at around $11 per quart. I could have sourced my own oil and filer online and taken it to the indy shop but it would have only saved me $30-$40 which was not worth my hassle. I considered investing in an oil extractor for future DIY oil changes if I was able to use it on my classics which would kill two birds with one stone: save me money on oil changes for the Jag and save the hassle of jacking up the Chrysler and GTO, getting out the jack stands and crawling under them. Getting one just for the Jag doesn't make sense as I would only use it two more times since it is a 3 year lease. I don't for see keeping the car long term as I'll most likely want something newer come 2021. Seeing as extracting the oil seems to be unpopular with classic cars I'll probably not invest in one. I'll bite the bullet two more times. In retrospect, I should have held out for a 2016 or newer F-Type (mine is 2015) as those come with complimentary scheduled maintenance. Live and learn.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
stubs300
Senior Member
Well that changes the course of the conversation now that you let that cat outta the bag! You got time till the next oil change, find a independent Jag shop and get their prices for a oil change. Like they say, it pays to shop around. Like you say, if you only use it twice. It's it worth it to go through that hassle of getting a extractor? Good Luck
73Coupe
Senior Member
rexus31
Senior Member
Thanks...LOL! I'm pretty sure I know how to work a wrench. The car is too low to get it up on ramps. If I had a lift or even a mini lift, it would be a no brainer. I'm not going through the hassle of trying to get the car in the air. I'm trying to get away from having to do that on my 2 classics and not interested in crawling around on my back any more than I have to.
JLR spec oil, filter and gasket and drain plug (can't be reused) is $120 plus shipping. No one local sells the JLR spec oil and I'm not jeopardizing voiding the warranty over $100. It is what it is.
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rexus31
Senior Member
The independent guy quoted $140 but he doesn't use JLR spec oil which is a deal breaker due to warranty restraints. If I brought my own oil, filer, gasket and drain plug, I would have saved $20 as he sill was going to charge $95 in labor. I'll shop around to see what oil some of the other indy shops us. One I called was more expensive than the two least expensive dealers at $320. Heres the quotes I got from the dealers I shopped:
Pasadena Jaguar: $240
Anaheim Jaguar: $386
Newport Beach Jaguar: $283
Galpin Jaguar: $325
Cerritos Jaguar: $428
By comparison, I paid $40 at the dealer for oil changes on my '15 Dodge Charger R/T Road and Track.
rexus31
Senior Member
LMAO! That’s awesome!
I bought this one for my wife's Beetle and my boat. It works very well, also nice if you ever over fill your motor oil. It is only $40.
Powerbuilt (647570 Oil/Fluid Extractor - 6.3 Quart Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OCEGONC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vtUaDbMH2VEMW
Powerbuilt (647570 Oil/Fluid Extractor - 6.3 Quart Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OCEGONC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vtUaDbMH2VEMW
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