Oil Filter Blues. Saving a buck could've cost me! Any thoughts?

Dsertdog

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So today I changed the oil in the Polara.
I must have done this a lot of times on big blocks back in the day.
But this time was different.
I drained the oil and removed the Wix filter
I filled the crankcase with Lucas 10-40 and primed the filter with about a half quart of oil, then screwed it on. I've used 10/40 before in big blocks.

The ONLY difference was the filter. I used a 61515, which is the "cheaper" version of a 1515 Wix. It was made by Mann/Hummel, who just bought Wix. Mann is pretty good stuff, so I thought it wouldn't matter. Was I wrong?

Started the engine and no oil pressure. Shut off and restarted several times and still no oil pressure. I panic, things are getting noisy under the hood!
Out of desperation, I put the old Wix filter back on. It's nearly empty. But I start the engine and after a couple of seconds, the light goes out. The engine is quiet. It's awesome!
So...was the filer drain back/pressure relief valve stuck closed? Or too strong to open?
Was the oil too thick to prime? Probably not because it built pressure with the old filter reinstalled.
I'm nervous, but think I should get a Wix filter and change it after priming it so I have a fresh filter.

Any thoughts? I've read a number of posts regarding oil filter/pump failure, oil weight, and filter choices. Some say 10/40 is too heavy.
One thing's for sure, I'm returning the cheapy filters and buying a Wix from now on.
 

polara71

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10 40 is NOT too heavy. Isn't that the recommended for summer months?
20 50 is not too heavy, many of us use it
It sounds like you have a filter issue but what do I know...
 

bigmoparjeff

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This is not an uncommon occurrence on older big block mopars. Most of the time it's an oil pump that's on it's way out.

I would put the new filter back on and see what happens. If you don't have oil pressure again, you got a bad filter. If everything is still good, your pump's days may be numbered.

Jeff
 

CBODY67

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I concur, 10W-40 or 20W-50 are not too heavy. Used 20W-50 GTX in my '70 Monaco for ages with no issues, BUT it doesn't get nearly as cold in N TX as it does in other places. Back when STP first came out with a dual-filter in the 1973 timeframe, I thought that was a good idea so I got one for the '66 Newport 383. I came home from college one weekend and went to the Exxon station I knew the owner of for an oil change. He put the filter on, filled the crankcase with oil, started it up and the oil light stayed on . . . and on . . . and on. No engine noises, as if the bypass was open or something, but I didn't like the way things were going so I killed the engine and he removed the new filter and put a normal Motorcraft FL-1A on, as we normally did back then. End of my quest for something better than an OEM brand of oil filter!

In those prior times, Wix was Wix, as far as we knew. Later a unit of Dana Corp., w Hhich tended to give it a better reputation, for many. Hadn't heard of Mann filters until we got an AutoZone in town 30 years ago.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

Dsertdog

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I concur, 10W-40 or 20W-50 are not too heavy. Used 20W-50 GTX in my '70 Monaco for ages with no issues, BUT it doesn't get nearly as cold in N TX as it does in other places. Back when STP first came out with a dual-filter in the 1973 timeframe, I thought that was a good idea so I got one for the '66 Newport 383. I came home from college one weekend and went to the Exxon station I knew the owner of for an oil change. He put the filter on, filled the crankcase with oil, started it up and the oil light stayed on . . . and on . . . and on. No engine noises, as if the bypass was open or something, but I didn't like the way things were going so I killed the engine and he removed the new filter and put a normal Motorcraft FL-1A on, as we normally did back then. End of my quest for something better than an OEM brand of oil filter!

In those prior times, Wix was Wix, as far as we knew. Later a unit of Dana Corp., w Hhich tended to give it a better reputation, for many. Hadn't heard of Mann filters until we got an AutoZone in town 30 years ago.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
I put one of those LEE/STP filters on my dads '68 Mustang and the lifters clattered like a solid lift cam. I put a new ol' standby orange Fram back on and no noise. The "dual filter" concept was just too restrictive for most engines.
I'm not gonna risk damage by putting the new filter back on. I'll get a Wix, prime it, and put it on. I've had at least two on this engine already without issues.
Mann/Hummel now owns Wix, which they bought from Affinia...who owned a bunch of different Automotive aftermarket companies. Mann is probably as well known in Europe as Fram or Wix is here.
 
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I just did an oil change on the '68 300 this morning. I used a NAPA Gold filter. Seems to be working great! I used 4 quarts of Valvoline VR-1 10W30 and 1 quart Kendall GT-1 straight 40.
 

Gerald Morris

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I just did an oil change on the '68 300 this morning. I used a NAPA Gold filter. Seems to be working great! I used 4 quarts of Valvoline VR-1 10W30 and 1 quart Kendall GT-1 straight 40.

THAT should make your motor purr. I like a similar mix for the summer. When the temperature crept over 110F here last weekend, I added a pint of STP for a little more viscosity in the 10W-30 Motorcraft diesel engine oil I run w the Napa/Wix filter. Mann/Hummel has treated Wix well, keeping their quality high. Goes to show that not EVERY big international corporation needs to act like consummate bloodsuckers.
 

stubs300

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I've always have had good luck with Motorcrafts FL-1A's, I like that you pre-fill the filters before install. I do the same! One trick that I do is the same, fill it, then I let it sit and let it soak into the filter for a few minutes. You can then get a few more ounces into the filter filling it more, then put it on. You'd be surprised how much oil filters suck up before they're full. Good Luck
 

Gerald Morris

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I've always have had good luck with Motorcrafts FL-1A's, I like that you pre-fill the filters before install. I do the same! One trick that I do is the same, fill it, then I let it sit and let it soak into the filter for a few minutes. You can then get a few more ounces into the filter filling it more, then put it on. You'd be surprised how much oil filters suck up before they're full. Good Luck

The FL-1A works well. Used to run them on my old Fords. I use exactly the same method for filling my filters, thus priming the pump now too. I get about 20 fl oz into the Wix filters before screwing them on thus, without spilling.
 

Dsertdog

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If you don't like the Mann + Hummel filter why are you buying a Wix? Made by the same company. May as well get a Fram.

I believe you missed the point. It isn't who makes the filter as all filters are made to certain OEM specs.

Rather it's how the filter is made. Less expensive filters will take certain "shortcuts" in production and can still fall within OEM specs. Matrix materials, the amount and density, etc. determine dead cost and profit. I used a private label filter that is cheaper than the standard Wix, even though it is made by the same companies. I figured that since I change oil every summer, why buy a 6 dollar filter if a 3 dollar one will do the job? Essentially....I used a Fram filter. :)

I believe the issue was filter prime, but I'm pretty certain that Ms. Ruby didn't appreciate the cheaper filter. She's a woman of taste who likes a certain lifestyle...:lol: ; ) ; )
 
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Mike66Chryslers

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I just did an oil change on the '68 300 this morning. I used a NAPA Gold filter. Seems to be working great! I used 4 quarts of Valvoline VR-1 10W30 and 1 quart Kendall GT-1 straight 40.
Mixing oil brands is not a good idea. I was once in Vegas for a company tradeshow. I ran into a rep for a major oil manufacturer. Oil companies give oil to the taxi fleet in Vegas for free, on the condition that they save samples for analysis later. The hot, dusty conditions and long periods of idling and stop-and-go driving are very hard on an engine and the oil, so it's great real-world testing for the oil companies.

Anyhow, I asked him what is the best oil to use based on their analysis. He said that any of the brand-name oils are good today, but you should pick one brand and not switch between them. The additives packages that they use may not be compatible, in which case you either lose some of the benefits of the oil (anti-wear, detergents) or in the worst case they chemically interact and fill your crankcase with sludge.
 

patrick66

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Geez, WIX is owned by Mann now? Wow, WTF?

I've always had great luck with WIX fillters, along with Castrol GTS oil and Shell Rotella T.
 

Slap Stick

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I believe you missed the point. It isn't who makes the filter as all filters are made to certain OEM specs.

Rather it's how the filter is made. Less expensive filters will take certain "shortcuts" in production and can still fall within OEM specs. Matrix materials, the amount and density, etc. determine dead cost and profit. I used a private label filter that is cheaper than the standard Wix, even though it is made by the same companies. I figured that since I change oil every summer, why buy a 6 dollar filter if a 3 dollar one will do the job? Essentially....I used a Fram filter. :)

I believe the issue was filter prime, but I'm pretty certain that Ms. Ruby didn't appreciate the cheaper filter. She's a woman of taste who likes a certain lifestyle...:lol: ; ) ; )
No, you missed the point. Who says the more expensive filter is any different?
Many times the insides are the same but the outside is painted differently.
 

Gerald Morris

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If you have Motor Trend, check out this episode of Engine Masters:

"Engine Masters" Oil Filter Shootout (TV Episode 2021) - IMDb

The found the K&N white filter to be much better than anything else.

THAT I find MOST INCREDIBLE! I suppose if you want your oil flow just stopped before it gets to the pump, K & N is great. I don't recommend their filter for B/RB motors. I had to prime my pump with Vaseline after an oil change with K & N filters the first year I drove Mathilda, then bought a brand new Melling pump and put it on with a K & N, thinking the old pump might have been too weak, but NOPE, SAME SHIT! Then I started using Wix, and no more bullshit. Lesson Learned.
 

CBODY67

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ALWAYS need to watch what is seen on tv or some rep might tell you. Take it "under advisement" UNTIL you can do your own investigations to really determine what is what. THEY usually have some agenda, as good or bad as that might be, that might suit whom pays their bills. In some cases, their advice can be "dead on", but in other cases, the results winner might also tend to advertise or supply products to the tv shows, too.

There is a federal military oil spec, which all companies tend to meet, that has all oils compatible with any other brand of oil the military might purchase for the vehicle. It's been around for many decades, as I understand it.

I understand the orientation of many owners who might desire some motor oil a little bit thicker than is normally available to them. Many on the www.bobistheoilguy.com forums do this for whatever reason, just as some might add a viscosity improver to do the same. Different oils for different folks . . .

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 

Dsertdog

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No, you missed the point. Who says the more expensive filter is any different?
Many times the insides are the same but the outside is painted differently.

My experience tells me different. In the parts business, which I've been in almost 4 decades, a common rule is that you get what you pay for. You can't buy something good for nothing. And no where does this rule apply more than in the filter business. A four dollar filter doesn't give you 8 dollar filter performance.
You can respond but I'm not wasting my time debating it. Some men you just can't reach...

For the rest of you who are interested, I bought a Wix 51515, primed it with too much oil which I lost screwing it on, and started the engine. Light came on for about 3 seconds and went out. Just like it should. And because no one had any Lucas oil, I had to use Valvoline racing oil. It's better to mix oils than run a sump low any time.

Oh...My boss also wants me to return ALL the cheapy filters (including the one I used) I purchased. I was told there have been some similar issues with customers I haven't been aware of. Imagine that, cheap parts having quality issues....:realcrazy::mad::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

And with that...I am moving on. Thanks for your responses.
 
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Slap Stick

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My experience tells me different. In the parts business, which I've been in almost 4 decades, a common rule is that you get what you pay for. You can't buy something good for nothing. And no where does this rule apply more than in the filter business. A four dollar filter doesn't give you 8 dollar filter performance.
You can respond but I'm not wasting my time debating it. Some men you just can't reach...

For the rest of you who are interested, I bought a Wix 51515, primed it with too much oil which I lost screwing it on, and started the engine. Light came on for about 3 seconds and went out. Just like it should. And because no one had any Lucas oil, I had to use Valvoline racing oil. It's better to mix oils than run a sump low any time.

Oh...My boss also wants me to return ALL the cheapy filters (including the one I used) I purchased. I was told there have been some similar issues with customers I haven't been aware of. Imagine that, cheap parts having quality issues....:realcrazy::mad::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

And with that...I am moving on. Thanks for your responses.
"What I say is right and I wont think any differently and I wont discuss it any longer". Price does not necessarily mean quality.
Yep, some men ya just cant reach.
 
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