Oil filter leak

3175375

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I have a leak at the oil filter on Shamu, my 69 Fury III vert. It is a 318.
When I replaced the oil filter, I looked at the surface that the filter butts up to and it appeared smooth and clean.

I will pull the oil filter and reinspect.
However, I am asking if I should scuff the surface of the block where the oil filter gasket sits.
I also believe that some vehicles have a 90 degree adapter mounted to the block, eliminating the issue with spilling oil all over the exhaust crossover between cylinder banks.

Maybe the valve cover gasket’s leaking. I had tightened up the valve cover bolts before driving the car. Hand tight with a 1/4” ratchet.

Here’s a picture of the small puddle that is present on the floor after driving the car (getting it warm) and the oil filter.

Am I missing something here?

I am using a Wix 51515 oil filter and apply a thin layer of silicon grease to it before spinning it on.
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Not familiar with this engine but maybe this'll help. The mating surface of your filter looks remarkably clean and also the top half of the filter looks dry. BUT there appears to be a drop of oil in the top of your picture:

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Looks to me that something up top is leaking onto your filter.
 
Look at the drip at the bottom of the head on the rear corner. May not be your filter.
 
Not familiar with this engine but maybe this'll help. The mating surface of your filter looks remarkably clean and also the top half of the filter looks dry. BUT there appears to be a drop of oil in the top of your picture:

View attachment 534854

Looks to me that something up top is leaking onto your filter.
Thank you. My suspicion is that the valve cover gasket’s leaking.
I believe that I have read that the valve cover gaskets are a problem area. I will research this more…
 
By observation, EVERY full-cork or rubberized cork gasket will wick oil through it with time and which brand/weight oil being used. To prevent that, I put a thin skim coat of black high-heat silicone sealer over all surfaces on the valve cover gaskets (and other gaskets, too). That seals the base gasket against any oil getting into it. Once they start to seep, you can tighten the valve cover bolts as much as you might desire and you might slow it down, but not stop it. Such tightening iw what distorts the sealing surface of the valve cover (unless it's a cast aluminum valve cover), requiring flattening back out with a hammer on a vice before using the steel valve cover again, for best results.

One main advantage of using the Mopar Performance right angle oil filter kit is that you can then use the longer (FL-1A style) oil filter. Plus it's much easier to do. I put one on my '80 Newport 360 2bbl and it works very nicely.

Give the oil filter a bath of brake cleaner to clean it off, then let the engine idle for a while and look for where the oil is coming from. The oil pressure sending unit is always a suspect, until proven innocent.

Use some clean motor oil to put a thin coat (finger tip applied) of oil on the oil filter gasket. It's worked for ages. No need to consider scuffing the oil filter gasket interface surface, just make sure it's smooth and flat.

Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67
 
I believe that it’s the valve cover gasket.
Sending unit is dry.
I believe that the oil is dripping from the valve cover/head.
I will replace the valve cover gasket with this:
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Put the new valve cover gaskets in and it’s leaking worse than before. I will revisit it in the morning.
Spent a lot of time cleaning everything and making sure to torque the bolts correctly.
 
Put the new valve cover gaskets in and it’s leaking worse than before. I will revisit it in the morning.
Spent a lot of time cleaning everything and making sure to torque the bolts correctly.
I tapped flat the valve covers with a small hammer and placed the gasket carefully on the valve cover.
Cinched the bolts to snug and torqued to 25 inch pounds.
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I looked at them carefully and had to flatten back the areas where the bolts go through.
I will investigate more tomorrow.
The rest of today is planting the garden.
I have had similar problems with the valve covers on my 65 Mustang and solved that by buying cast aluminum valve covers and using a silicon gasket with a steel piece embedded in it. I am considering going that way here too…
 
Perhaps the bolt torque spec is for the rubberized cork gaskets and the solid silicone ones need a bit more torque? Might check a mid-70s FSM, when those silicone gaskets were used, for their torque on police engines? Might also put a skin coat of silicone sealer on the wide sides of the gasket for better sealing?

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Those gaskets demand a very clean surface. Do not over torque your new silicone gaskets. Make sure your covers are straight. After running the engine through a heat cycle re-check the torque. Mine are going on three years with zero leaking.
 
You have the right quality gaskets. As mentioned make sure everyrhing is super clean and do not overtighten the bolts.
 
You have the right quality gaskets. As mentioned make sure everyrhing is super clean and do not overtighten the bolts.
I cleaned the valve cover by using sandpaper, a wire brush and once I had metal exposed (I had to remove some silicone from the valve cover), I cleaned the surfaces with brake cleaner and then lacquer thinner.
I did a similar procedure for the cylinder head, being mindful of debris and making sure that it was all removed.
I’ll investigate tomorrow.

I changed gears this afternoon and pulled about 8 fruit trees (mostly apple) that had died or were blown over or sheared off by winds.
 
These Mopar gaskets are the best if you can find a set.
Mopar Performance Valve Cover Gaskets

They were originally designed for late 80s small block cop cars.
I will see if I can get you the original part number.
Metal core ribbed silicon type.
Thank you for the information!
They sound similar in construction to the Moroso pieces, but they are out of stock, so I will likely go with the Moroso items. However, I have another one to do in time, Elwood-a 68 Fury II 4 door sedan.
 
similar problem here
One method that helps is to use a short straight edge across the bolt holes on the underside of the valve cover
You will than be able to see the gap between the holes and the bottom surface of the valve cover and correct the over torqued and distorted mounting hole surface as mentioned
 
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