Oil filter question

CBODY67

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As I recall, the "big deal" with Fram filters, back then, after being sort of an iconic brand when it was by itself, was the cardboard end plates the filter media was glued to. Many cut-aways of Fram filters suddenly surfaced to compare to brands (with their own cut-aways) which used the allegedly better metal end caps. Not sure if Fram changed back to metal or if everybody lost interest in that issue?


seems like almost everybody has some brand of filter they won't use, for whatever reason, that others really like. BTAIM

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 

bluefury361

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I don't put much stock in what study's were performed to determine what materials are used in filter construction. I'd rather see dyno test results on the oil after an equivalent 3K mile run.
 

CBODY67

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Back when the cardboard was discovered, the suspicion was that it was not durable and might "leak" some of the oil through it (not realizing that such would also be "filtering"). Whereas the metal end caps would not allow any of that. BTAIM

The real issue is how much of the paticulate test material is removed from the oil during the specified test procedure. Remember, too, that the test material is of varied sizes, not just one size.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

marty koirtyohann

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I changed the oil in my 64 Imperial recently
I looked for a purolator filter, because that's what the FSM recommended, but couldn't find one, and bought a NAPA brand
Since then I can hear lifters tick for a few seconds after a cold start up
If I'm right, some filters have a check valve to keep oil from draining down, others do not
Could the oil filter be the cause of the tick on start up? And what filter do you recommend?
It didn't do it, or at least not as bad, before I changed the oil
Using a conventional 10w 30 oil, not too sure about the zinc content
i only ue mopar filters never had a issue i buy mine from walmart
 

kmccabe56

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I changed the oil in my 64 Imperial recently
I looked for a purolator filter, because that's what the FSM recommended, but couldn't find one, and bought a NAPA brand
Since then I can hear lifters tick for a few seconds after a cold start up
If I'm right, some filters have a check valve to keep oil from draining down, others do not
Could the oil filter be the cause of the tick on start up? And what filter do you recommend?
It didn't do it, or at least not as bad, before I changed the oil
Using a conventional 10w 30 oil, not too sure about the zinc content
Using a modern "conventional" 10w30 in a car with flat tappets is a recipe for disaster. Everybody knows or should know that the zinc and manganese in "old" oils provide the wear properties that flat tappet engines require. Toddle on over to your local GM dealer. They sell an "Engine Oil Supplement" - mainly as a break-in oil on an engine rebuild. The stuff is chock full of zinc and manganese. I bought a case of twelve bottles years ago and am still working my way through them. About 1/4 of one bottle is all that's needed for an oil change. If you want to hear how effective this stuff is, do an oil change with modern oil, start the car up and then pour in the EOS. You'll HEAR the engine quiet down. One bottle of the GM EOS is about $6-7bucks. Over four oil changes, it's chump change. Forget all the high dollar purple and other funny color oils out there that claim to have lots of zinc in them. This stuff WORKS.
 

Ripinator

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That goes without saying ....... :rolleyes:
I can tell some brands just by the flavor.

The last time this happened to me, I poured six quarts of Valvoline 20W-50 racing oil right through the engine and out of the open drain plug hole on to the garage floor. Not two or three quarts - all six of them!
 

Mike66Chryslers

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There is no "VoDo" on Fram filters. Fake news.....! Fram is my filter of choice. I've been changing oil since the early 60's, never had one fail. (I did have a Puralator blow apart once), due to a defective crimp on the can, I think). I have seen some others fail also. Having had a career in professional racing, (drag racing and circuit track), the primary oil filter used was Fram.

Bottom line.... Price shop, good quality oil and regular oil changes.
There were problems with Fram filters for Cummins 5.9 diesels with the filter media breaking down and clogging up the oil passages, leading to engine failure. I also heard of Fram filter casings for Cummins exploding because they couldn't contain the oil pressure.

I use Napa Gold 1515 (aka Wix 51515) filters on my Chryslers and Fleetguard filters on my Cummins. My wife's CR-V and the lawn tractor get Quaker State. QS is owned by Allied Signal but have better internal construction than Fram. I know because I cut my old filters open to inspect for captured debris.
 

Mike66Chryslers

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Using a modern "conventional" 10w30 in a car with flat tappets is a recipe for disaster. Everybody knows or should know that the zinc and manganese in "old" oils provide the wear properties that flat tappet engines require. Toddle on over to your local GM dealer. They sell an "Engine Oil Supplement" - mainly as a break-in oil on an engine rebuild. The stuff is chock full of zinc and manganese. I bought a case of twelve bottles years ago and am still working my way through them. About 1/4 of one bottle is all that's needed for an oil change. If you want to hear how effective this stuff is, do an oil change with modern oil, start the car up and then pour in the EOS. You'll HEAR the engine quiet down. One bottle of the GM EOS is about $6-7bucks. Over four oil changes, it's chump change. Forget all the high dollar purple and other funny color oils out there that claim to have lots of zinc in them. This stuff WORKS.
I use Lucas "TB Zinc Plus", available at Napa. Similar to your additive, a quarter of the bottle provides adequate zinc for one oil change.

3242902.jpg
 

CBODY67

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Using a modern "conventional" 10w30 in a car with flat tappets is a recipe for disaster. Everybody knows or should know that the zinc and manganese in "old" oils provide the wear properties that flat tappet engines require. Toddle on over to your local GM dealer. They sell an "Engine Oil Supplement" - mainly as a break-in oil on an engine rebuild. The stuff is chock full of zinc and manganese.

One bottle of the GM EOS is about $6-7bucks. Over four oil changes, it's chump change. Forget all the high dollar purple and other funny color oils out there that claim to have lots of zinc in them. This stuff WORKS.

Many dealers don't stock that as a normal situation any more, BUT they can order it on their chemical order if you want to wait. Check out the ACDelco Chemical catalog, too.

There used to be TWO EOS options, the one quart (to replace one quart of motor oil at the oil change) and the pint (STP-thick, that was used for camshaft changes and such). Now, those quarts have been discontinued over the years. The pint has become smaller and now labeled "camshaft assembly lube", I believe. The pint used to be highly recommended to pour over the cam in the engine before its first fire-off, before break-in started.

Interestingly, Castrol has a "black bottle" Edge 5W-30 that is not Dexos-approved, but carries an "SL" rating (which means approx 1000ppm of zinc). It's available at the local Walmarts!

FWIW,
CBODY67
 

Imperial dude

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Update:
Put a bottle of the Lucas TB Lucas zinc plus in, no more tick at cold start
My valve train thanks you all:thankyou:
 

Mike66Chryslers

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I've noticed filters made for use with synthetic oils. Are these a good idea for use with conventoinal oils? LC
The short answer is that running a synthetic filter with conventional oil will work fine and may be beneficial.

Synthetic oil filters use a synthetic filter material instead of a paper-based filter material to filter out contaminants. Many people who switch to synthetic oil run it for an extended change interval because the oil doesn't break down as conventional multi-grade oil does. If using a conventional filter with synthetic oil, it is recommended to change just the filter at the regular oil change interval. The synthetic filters are designed to not need to be changed until the (synthetic) oil is changed.
 
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