Scott 440 TNT
Member
My 68 300 needs a OPG, I don't see a sensor location.
Where can I connect the fitting for the oil line.
Where can I connect the fitting for the oil line.
Oil Pressure Gauge Install
- Thread starter Scott 440 TNT
- Start date
Back of the block near the top of the bellhouse theres an oil gallery that you can use.
The oil pressure sending unit can be removed to install the gauge fitting or there is a second galley fitting opposite the pressure sending unit. Be sure if you bought an after market gauge that you discard the crappy plastic tubing in favor of copper tubing and save yourself a leak down the road..
Dave.
Dave.
Scott 440 TNT
Member
Where is the Pressure Sending Unit located.
Look to the rear of the intake manifold just forward of the bell housing for the transmission at the top center.
Dave.
Scott 440 TNT
Member
Doh. I bought the crappy plastic tubing, back to the store again.
Better yet, buy an electric gauge and not worry about running the line or having the line break. It's a mess when it does.
Oh, I know.. ask my 17 year old self what happened.. bad times...covered a fresh engine and fresh primered car in oil..
I almost hated to add a "like" to that, but yea, once you've done it, you know.
Scott 440 TNT
Member
True, I just had this gauge already in the stash.
It's just a temporary install to get some data.
It's amazing how quickly that tiny plastic hose can pump several quarts of 200* oil onto the floorboards of your '68 340 Dart when you're 18 years old and you're roaring around in the dark of night with your pals in the car.
"Hey, Trace. I smell oil." "So what? The engine is hot and I have a tiny valve cover leak." "No, I REALLY smell oil over here!" "Damn, what the hell is going on? I gotta pull over!" "Holy ****. Pull over! My feet are covered with hot oil! Owwwwwww.....PULL OVER!"
In those days, an electric OP gauge was unthinkable. But today, they're perfectly suitable for a street car. In fact, there isn't a modern car on the road that has a mechanical oil gauge. Plus, it doesn't have to be dead-accurate to the very last PSI, it only has to show the operator that something has changed from the prior "normal" pressure when the gauge was installed.
Understood. But if that's the case, you don't really need to go to the trouble of running it inside to the dash.
Scott 440 TNT
Member
Just an under hood app for now, electronic dash gauge later.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I love my mech oil pressure gauges! Yes, when pounding along I-20 in the ditch of night one November, Somewhere East of Van Horn, West of Midland-Odessa, I had a plastic line melt shut near where it went into the gauge hookup on my 351C/C4 68 Furd Disgustang. I look and see 0 psi! OHHH ****! BUT: No lifters tapping, plenty oil in crank case, and pumping up to the rocker arms sooo, I limped along and what was going to be a 8-9 hr drive from Tucson to Ft. Worth became a 14 hr ordeal.
I didn't SEE that the PLASTIC LINE HAD MELTED UNTIL IN MY MOTHERS GARAGE THE NEXT DAY, POST COME-DOWN/ARRIVAL! GRRRRR! NEVER bought plastic line again. Even the 1/8" copper line gets brittle after some time and vibration. Steel supposed to be better. Might try it. I LIKE non-electric instruments though. KISS under dash.
I didn't SEE that the PLASTIC LINE HAD MELTED UNTIL IN MY MOTHERS GARAGE THE NEXT DAY, POST COME-DOWN/ARRIVAL! GRRRRR! NEVER bought plastic line again. Even the 1/8" copper line gets brittle after some time and vibration. Steel supposed to be better. Might try it. I LIKE non-electric instruments though. KISS under dash.
fury fan
Senior Member
Some devil's-advocating...
Plastic tubing can come in 2 versions - 'unknown' plastic, and a higher-capability, higher-quality nylon.
Nylon tubing is used in a variety of applications far more demanding than an oil pressure gauge in a 50-year-old car that gets driven 'sparingly'.
No harm in using nylon if its routed with care, to ensure no sharp edges, vibration rubbing, has suitable bend radiuses, etc.
And the line will be mostly filled with air, so it's not like the oil is eating the line.
All teh horror stories you hear of an oil leak will blame the line, without a detailed determination of what truly might have caused it.
For me, I want a 270° sweep on my oil and water, for better resolution on the numbers, and that's expensive in an electric gauge, 90° is most common.
I like mechanical gauges because I can watch my T-stat open/close several times before it settles to equilibrium operating temp.
And when I get closer to oilchange time, I'll see the slightest bit of needle-quiver in my oil pressure at idle. (I don't quite understand it, but have seen it happen enough times to recognize it) An oil change makes it go away.
Just my perspective.
Plastic tubing can come in 2 versions - 'unknown' plastic, and a higher-capability, higher-quality nylon.
Nylon tubing is used in a variety of applications far more demanding than an oil pressure gauge in a 50-year-old car that gets driven 'sparingly'.
No harm in using nylon if its routed with care, to ensure no sharp edges, vibration rubbing, has suitable bend radiuses, etc.
And the line will be mostly filled with air, so it's not like the oil is eating the line.
All teh horror stories you hear of an oil leak will blame the line, without a detailed determination of what truly might have caused it.
For me, I want a 270° sweep on my oil and water, for better resolution on the numbers, and that's expensive in an electric gauge, 90° is most common.
I like mechanical gauges because I can watch my T-stat open/close several times before it settles to equilibrium operating temp.
And when I get closer to oilchange time, I'll see the slightest bit of needle-quiver in my oil pressure at idle. (I don't quite understand it, but have seen it happen enough times to recognize it) An oil change makes it go away.
Just my perspective.
Or you can Tee out of the primary port. In this pic you can see the OEM idiot light sender and the electric Autometer gauge sender. Tee fittings and appropriate-length pipe nipples (and fittings) are available at any hardware store.
fury fan
Senior Member
Not saying what you did is wrong, just food for thought for future readers.
That gauge sender is kinda large, and a combination of engine vibration and Made-In-China could possibly result in a broken T-fitting at some point? When doing 2 sensings I always try to use the 2nd port instead of a T.
That gauge sender is kinda large, and a combination of engine vibration and Made-In-China could possibly result in a broken T-fitting at some point? When doing 2 sensings I always try to use the 2nd port instead of a T.
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