Oil pump prime failure

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. jbooth35

    jbooth35 Member

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    I decided to prime the oil pump tonight since I'm getting ready to fire the engine up for the first time since I've had the car. Engine is a 426 SW in my 65 polara. I began spinning the oil pump counterclockwise and felt nothing for more than a minute. I understand that I should be able to tell when the oil is moving through the engine so I continue to spin the drill a little faster waiting for the jolt indicating that the oil is moving. Well I finally feel the jolt and keep spinning for a few seconds.... I hear some fluid moving and then get a pop! Oil starts spilling on the floor from the oil filter which burst open right near the base where it screws in. What the heck happened. Did I do something wrong here?
     
  2. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Probably a defective filter, replace it and start over. Use a wix or hastings filter.

    Dave
     
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  3. Polara_500

    Polara_500 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Did you change the filter? If not, remove it - have to anyway - and check for an extra base gasket.
     
  4. jbooth35

    jbooth35 Member

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    This was a brand new filter. Purolator. Is the oil pressure relief valve part of the oil pump? I'm thinking it must of been stuck causing too much pressure. I've read about oil filters exploding on running engines, but not anything about this happening when priming the oil pump.
     
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  5. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    If the engine sat for a very long time, it is also possible the the check valve in the oil pump is stuck causing oil pressure high enough to burst the filter. You might want to install a pressure gauge in place of the pressure sending unit to verify normal oil pressure as you prime the pump.

    Dave
     
  6. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Check valve is integral to the pump, there is a hex nut on the side of the pump casting that holds the valve. If you need to service the check valve, remove the oil pump for a through cleaning as there may be rust present.

    Dave
     
  7. jbooth35

    jbooth35 Member

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    I've seen some video's of folks using a pressure gauge mounted in the engine compartment. I think I'll go and pick one up. I'll also grab a couple of Wix filters. I'm sad to see that VR1 high zinc oil all over the floor.. I'm thinking I should just plan on using some cheap oil for the first start up in many years and plan on changing it right away. I'm just trying to get this car on the road for a little while before I end up rebuilding the engine anyhow.
     
  8. jbooth35

    jbooth35 Member

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    Any recommendations on a mechanical oil pressure gauge? I want to make sure I get one that'll fit.

    Thanks.
     
  9. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Rather than "cheap oil", of which there is usually little any more, some 5W-30 will flow easier upon start-up, getting oil where it needs to go quicker, which might be an asset in your case. Might remove the spark plugs and put q few squirts in each cylinder. Plus pour some over the valve train for good measure. Use care to not over-fill in the process.

    After you pre-lube, you might treat the motor as if it has a new cam in it and keep the rpms at "fast idle" type speed for probably 5 minutes or so, so that oil sill sling off the crank and into the camshaft lobe area. Once the water temp comes up, then slowly decrease the rpm level until you get to hot base idle. See how things go past that. THEN, put your final choice of motor oil in it with a new filter.

    You also might plan on a new fuel pump in the mix, too. Although most newer pumps have an ethanol-resistant diaphram, if that rubber dries out from the fuel around it evaporating, it'll allegedly becomes brittle and will leak. After things run a while, plan on a new fuel filter too. Then check the rest of the rubber fuel lines between the tank and the engine. Not forgetting the one near the rear of the stub frame.

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2020
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  10. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Mechanical rather than electric.
     
  11. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    The fitting on the back of the block is 1/8" NPT. Most gauges come with a short length of plastic tubing and a fitting to hook the tubing to the gauge. You may need to buy a compression fitting in 1/8" NPT and 1/8" tubing to connect the tubing to the block.

    Dave
     
  12. jbooth35

    jbooth35 Member

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    I’ve replaced everything in the fuel system except for the pump. I really should just replace it I suppose but I can use a recommendation here too. Carter or some aftermarket part? Should I pull the water pump while I’m at it too? Logic seems to think it should be done anyhow but I just keep delaying to find out if it’ll even run. I’m ordering the oil pressure tester tonight as amazon has one for $20. Gonna grab a oil pump gasket too. I guess I can order water and fuel pump gaskets too.
     
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  13. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Carter fuel pump. The ChiCom crap they sell at CarCrap or AutoBone will not last. If your water pump spins freely, leave it alone as it should be ok.

    Dave
     
  14. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    One thing leads to another . . . IF you're going to remove the water pump, get a front cover gasket too and replace the timing chain while you're close and it's reasonable easy to do. Cheap insurance is the way I'd look at it. Once you get it going, it might do pretty well for another 60K+ miles before it really needs to be rebuilt, that way. One less thing to have to worry about so you can focus on other things on the car.

    Enjoy!
    CBODY67
     
  15. Mike66Chryslers

    Mike66Chryslers Well-Known Member

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    If you replace the fuel pump, you might consider replacing the fuel pump pushrod as well. A lot of OEM ones have enough wear on them now that they're wearing through the surface hardening and wearing down. It happened to me and it's happened to several other members here.
     
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  16. rexus31

    rexus31 Senior Member

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    Cheap oil can result in expensive repairs. Take the oil pump off and rebuild it or get a new one. How long has the car sat?
     
  17. 413

    413 Well-Known Member

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    This is going WAY to far out. Now we’re have a week of work and many hundreds spent, for what?

    Likely a bad filter. Install the oil pressure gauge on there and check pressure when priming. They come with the line and fittings.

    All this other work could or should be done later after you verify this engine runs To your liking and you are going to use this engine.
     
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  18. jbooth35

    jbooth35 Member

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    Ok. I got a manual pressure gauge coming tomorrow. I’ll install the new wix filter and check pressure first before pulling the oil pump. Noticed that the oil pan drain plug is leaking too so I’ll pick up a new plug. Are all these 1/2-20 ? I also ordered a new fuel pump anyhow since it should of been done anyhow. I got a Carter M3672 as it seems to have the same specs. Original had part 1548 on it but couldn’t find reference to that and most websites don’t show that the 3672 is the correct pump for the 426 wedge, but it has the same orientation and inlet/outlet size.
    Thanks for all responses.

    B06707C2-A65F-47A6-BD22-C75C5E91BFD0.jpeg
     
  19. cbarge

    cbarge World Famous Barge in a Budget FCBO Gold Member

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    IIRC,the oiling system is "timed" where you have to rotate the crank to oil each bank of the top end.??
    Correct me if I am wrong.
    Cheers
     
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  20. Mike66Chryslers

    Mike66Chryslers Well-Known Member

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    That's correct for getting oil up into the rocker shafts to lubricate the valvetrain. The bottom-end and the lifter galleries receive pressurized oil from the pump continuously though.
     
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