ORIGINAL 1969 POLARA CHP RESURECTION

So did you have a special cut tool, or where you just being extra careful?

And it's looking great. :thumbsup:

i'm curious about the specially cut razor blade.

What I do is simple really. But it really boils down to patience and technique.

You want to remove only the top layer or layers of paint, and not the substrate or base, in this case the original paint.

Most razor blades, (including the newer style of “snap” blades where you can progressively remove a dull edge, by breaking off a piece) have two edges. By lightly pulling the blade, running the one edge, in one direction across a sharpening stone, or 600 grit paper you can “shape” or dull the leading edge of the cut face of the razor. I also lightly shape the corners of the blade while pulling it across the stone while flexing it 3 or 4 times to lightly dull the 90 degree edge (the corners) of the blade.

Then when you remove the layers of paint you can mimipulate the blade by positioning it and by “bending” it to comform with body curves/lines etc.

Doing it takes time and patience and lots of practice, mistakes will be made, but overall the outcome is effective.

Long winded explanation, I really need to show you what I’m talking about. But I think you can get the idea.
 
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I had an extra hour between customer cars.... more archaeology.....

I removed the CHP applied filler and found the original whip antenna mounting location. It was brazed over with a metal plate underneath. I removed the brazing and plate, and dressed the metal in the area. This is not a restoration of the area, I just wanted to check for fitment. The mount fit perfectly, dropped right in and bolted in just like 1969!

Then I installed an
original CHP issue antenna mount/ball and whip spring sourced from Alan/MrMoparCHP.

I can’t say enough about Alan’s help and support. He’s been very kind and supportive of my “resurrection”, without his help with parts, advise and sympathy, this would be more difficult.

-Thanks Alan/ MrMoparCHP !!!


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Nice discovery. I love auto archeology!

X2 regarding Alan/MrMoparCHP! He went above and beyond in getting me the stub frame I needed for my own vert resurrection project, a true asset to the FCBO community.
 
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Original issue Spots!!!

Over the last 2 years I bought several correct “S6 Unity” spot light cores with correct brass light housings and partial units at various swap meets.

I spent about $50 on the cores...I took them all apart and used 6 cores to make 2 correct units with correct white handles.....swapped out worn gears and actuating handles..found an NOS UNITY sealed red lamp on eBay for $25...and an original “clear” lamp...

Baby steps, but closer to having the car correct.....
 
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Original issue Spots!!!

Over the last 2 years I bought several correct “S6 Unity” spot light cores with correct brass light housings and partial units at various swap meets.

I spent about $50 on the cores...I took them all apart and used 6 cores to make 2 correct units with correct white handles.....swapped out worn gears and actuating handles..found an NOS UNITY sealed red lamp on eBay for $25...and an original “clear” lamp...

Baby steps, but closer to having the car correct.....

Lamps: 4000R and 4435
Rear: 4633R and 4434A
I was surprised that Unity had all the mechanicals to fix these


Alan
 
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Original issue Spots!!!

Over the last 2 years I bought several correct “S6 Unity” spot light cores with correct brass light housings and partial units at various swap meets.

I spent about $50 on the cores...I took them all apart and used 6 cores to make 2 correct units with correct white handles.....swapped out worn gears and actuating handles..found an NOS UNITY sealed red lamp on eBay for $25...and an original “clear” lamp...

Baby steps, but closer to having the car correct.....
Sweet work my friend.. keep us posted d you progress..
 
So what's the reason for a red light on the driver side?
 
Lamps: 4000R and 4435
Rear: 4633R and 4434A
I was surprised that Unity had all the mechanicals to fix these


Alan


Your right Alan, it's amazing really that Unity has decent parts availability for 50, 60 and 70 year old products that they made. It a testament to their design I guess.

I need to find the "ground clips" or what ever those things are that go on the inside A-pillar.
 
I need to find the "ground clips" or what ever those things are that go on the inside A-pillar.
I ended up getting a NOS install kit off eBay to get those as Unity doesn’t have those. I had to get four different sets to get all the correct screws and other bits.


Alan
 
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I’ve had some emails on the CHP resurrection, here’s some progress.

Original bumpers were removed and sent to California for rechroming....I chose to keep the original bumpers as they were drilled for the CHP push bars.
 
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I was lucky to find original parts from another CHP Polara that was built in the same lot on the same day/SPD as my car....replacement CHP grill.

All replacement parts will be from a real CHP Polara.
 
...automotive archeology...I found these under the rear seat,...heroin “cooking spoon” and syringe from a “perp”, and a penny from Mexico circa 1965. The arresting officer didn't search them all too well, and the "perp" stuffed these behind the seat......

Got the original Broadcast Sheet too!

The spent .38 police special “jacket” was under the front seat! I wish unit #4477 could tell me her stories......I suppose in a way she is already.

Neat-O!!!

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Good advise Alan!

Yes, I was adamant that they leave all holes “as is”,...I pick them up on Saturday,..

Since you sent them to California, what place did you use that was so good that you sent them down here? I assume you must know that their prep work is first rate, as finding a place that doesn't release wavy bumpers after "working them" is hard to find, and what do they charge to do those bumpers if I might ask?

Thanks
 
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Since you sent them to California, what place did you use that was so good that you sent them down here? I assume you must know that their prep work is first rate, as finding a place that doesn't release wavy bumpers after "working them" is hard to find, and what do they charge to do those bumpers if I might ask?

Thanks

Hey Steve,

The bumpers were done by J.V. Metal Polish, in Lynnwood, CA. They are "driver quality" finish, which is fine for this car. I just wanted my originals straightened and freshened up; something better than what they were. They do offer a "show" triple plate, but that costs more.

I only know what they can do based on looking at other customers bumpers they had finished for delivery; what I saw was fine. I'm not doing an OEM or show car here. I'm sure the chrome is not going to last 30 years, but I don't care. I don't know if many on this forum know or not, but the work/ finish on a lot of the fuselage area cars is not that great. The chrome is very durable, but the finish of the bumper its' self is quite poor. (lots of scratches in the parent material) With these re-chromed bumpers, if you keep them waxed, paint the inner/underside, and keep them clean, "cheaper" chrome will last.

That said, whatever I get is better than what I had, and that was my goal here.

They were $320 each for straightening and chroming, and they are delivered to me at no charge. I'm happy with that. In my city, the same job and same quality is $800 each.

I ground C.H.P in my bumpers so I know I'm getting my originals back. Which they encouraged me to do!
 
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Hey Steve,

The bumpers were done by J.V. Metal Polish, in Lynnwood, CA. They are "driver quality" finish, which is fine for this car. I just wanted my originals straightened and freshened up; something better than what they were. They do offer a "show" triple plate, but that costs more.

I only know what they can do based on looking at other customers bumpers they had finished for delivery. I'm sure the chrome is not going to last 30 years, but I don't care. I don't know if many on this forum know or not, but the work/ finish on a lot of the fuselage area cars is not that great. The chrome is very durable, but the finish of the bumper its' self is quite poor. (lots of scratches in the parent material) If you keep your bumpers waxed, paint the inner/underside, and keep them clean, "cheaper" chrome will last.

That said, whatever I get is better than what I had, and that was my goal here.

They were $320 each for straightening and chroming, and they are delivered to me at no charge. I'm happy with that. In my city, the same job and same quality is $800 each.

I ground C.H.P in my bumpers so I know I'm getting my originals back. Which they encouraged me to do!

Makes complete sense for your purposes Trev. Thanks for clarifying!
 
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Alan/MrMoparCHP, gave me the model numbers for the external radio speaker....found a correct original unit in Connecticut if all places.

It bolted right in.......baby steps
 
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