I recently purchased a 71 Fury with factory a/c. I have the original a/c components which were removed from the car and I'm sure the compressor will have to be rebuilt/replaced. Not sure about serviceability of the evaporator/condenser or other components. I'm thinking of replacing the entire unit with a vintage air setup. Originality is not an issue for me. What do you guys think? Jim
Original a/c setup versus going all new on a 71 fury
- Thread starter jimserra
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Jim, rebuild the system that came with the car.
A zillion guys can tell you how to get it to throw ice out the vents.
An aftermarket universal and you're totally on your own.
A zillion guys can tell you how to get it to throw ice out the vents.
An aftermarket universal and you're totally on your own.
Stormer
Old Man with a Hat
I need to do some research here myself. One thing I know is that modern compressors have a clutch that disengages at WOT but I think the computer triggers that but I'm not 100% sure. I guess if your not planning to go WOT a whole bunch it doesn't really matter. I'm planning to go WOT every chance I get.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
My Corvettes had the WOT cut outs as well as my F150 and my wife's RX-8. Total pain in the *** when it's 95° everyday.
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Duplicate....
BillGrissom
Active Member
I would replace just the compressor and the hoses to it, and keep everything else factory. The condensor and evaporator should last almost forever, at least if no stone damage or you don't live where everything corrodes quickly. Keep using Freon, or switch to a HC refrigerant, which works as well as Freon and is compatible with mineral oil.
The factory RV2 compressors last almost forever, but they are a heavy beast and costly to get rebuilt. A Sanden is inexpensive, light, and efficient. Most hot rodders use them. You can get brackets for all Mopar engines for ~$120. Get a Sanden with top O-ring fittings. Many shops can make new hoses for ~$40. You won't need your current suction tank. Do flush the lines and install a new filter/drier. Also, see if you can put a filter on the suction side too.
The factory RV2 compressors last almost forever, but they are a heavy beast and costly to get rebuilt. A Sanden is inexpensive, light, and efficient. Most hot rodders use them. You can get brackets for all Mopar engines for ~$120. Get a Sanden with top O-ring fittings. Many shops can make new hoses for ~$40. You won't need your current suction tank. Do flush the lines and install a new filter/drier. Also, see if you can put a filter on the suction side too.
My local Advanced Auto Parts store show a remanufactured compressor for $133 and another $100 or so for a rebuilt clutch which they claim will be an exact fit.. Here's a link to their compressor:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...veworks_5890675-p?searchTerm=air+conditioning
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...veworks_5890675-p?searchTerm=air+conditioning
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I'd go local like with Advance. Units are a tad cheaper on the net but by buying local, you'll have the satisfaction of dropping it on the counter in front of them and saying "RECTIFY THIS SITUATION IMMEDIATELY" if need be.
You just need to find out if it's R134 ready or if you have to convert it (easy enough when on the bench). I doubt Gomez behind the counter can answer the question correctly for you, tho... Try and find it in writing somewhere so you know what to do with it when you get it.
You just need to find out if it's R134 ready or if you have to convert it (easy enough when on the bench). I doubt Gomez behind the counter can answer the question correctly for you, tho... Try and find it in writing somewhere so you know what to do with it when you get it.
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I had a friend who has an extensive a/c background stop by yesterday and we laid all the original components in place and everything looks good. I'm going to pick up a set of new "O" rings so he can pressure test the system with nitrogen before we start buying individual components. I'll keep you informed as things progress. Jim
Make sure you get a flush kit. AFTER flushing the system make sure you replace the receiver drier. Conduct a vacuum test. It should hold a vacuum for 30 minutes. If it doesn't......you'll have to find the leak or you'll waste a lot money in Freon that will just leak out.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
And remove the EPR valve....
So far I've invested in a system flush kit (17 ounces with hose and valve) $18, ordered a rebuilt compressor (132.42 shipped minus a $10 core charge) and a rebuilt clutch (89.47 shipped) all from advance auto. By ordering online, you deduct 15% off their prices and also get a $30 coupon good towards future purchases per . I was also able to obtain a new receiver/drier on e bay for $60 shipped. We'll probably get cracking on the a/c rebuild next week. I'll keep everyone informed. Jim
Jim,
you may also want to run it with a low charge for a bit to check for leaks..... I would change all the component seals while apart making the above vacuum test even more important.
Finally, for you 400/440 fans... The length of the belts between the alternator and the compressor is so long that they vibrate like hell at idle... Especially when it's hot outside and the system is under stress. Later model C Bodies had an idler pulley mounted in between which eliminates this annoying vibration completely.
I managed to adapt one out of a 93 Lincoln with a 5.0 that works great and bolts in with a little modification.
Here it is:
you may also want to run it with a low charge for a bit to check for leaks..... I would change all the component seals while apart making the above vacuum test even more important.
Finally, for you 400/440 fans... The length of the belts between the alternator and the compressor is so long that they vibrate like hell at idle... Especially when it's hot outside and the system is under stress. Later model C Bodies had an idler pulley mounted in between which eliminates this annoying vibration completely.
I managed to adapt one out of a 93 Lincoln with a 5.0 that works great and bolts in with a little modification.
Here it is:
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Newp
Active Member
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I have heard you mention that before Stan. Why does it need to me removed?
Mine has the the EPR valve in and I'm running on R134 with no issues.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I will NOT lie. I don't know. I have seen it said from so many sources that I'm simply doing what I'm told. A/C is probably my biggest weakness.
http://www.classicautoair.com/MOPAR_OEM_Parts_134A_Conversion.html?
It says remove EPR valve and the next line they say install thermostat. What thermostat are they referring to?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Technically it's a thermocouple.
You Drill a hole in your firewall right in front of your evaporator.
Mount the unit on your firewall, stick the probe through the hole so it is against the evap.
When the evap starts to ice up, the unit cuts out the compressor.
You Drill a hole in your firewall right in front of your evaporator.
Mount the unit on your firewall, stick the probe through the hole so it is against the evap.
When the evap starts to ice up, the unit cuts out the compressor.
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That's interesting. Did you mod yours?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
No. On the "ASAP to-do" list.
That's why the pic shows it on the bench. LOL!!!!!!
Hey, I finally got around to the U-joint's didn't I? Don't rush me. LMAO...
That's why the pic shows it on the bench. LOL!!!!!!
Hey, I finally got around to the U-joint's didn't I? Don't rush me. LMAO...
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