Overheating problem with Madeline

mdh157

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Looks like I am off to the races with my 'new' car. Having a overheating problem that does not make sense to me:

The car starts and runs up to operating temp and beyond at idle. Thermostat is working fine. The car shows some circulation in the rad. If I take it out on the road in will run hotter than usual but will get hot, then cool a bit on the gauge when cruising; however, it's still operating above the normal temp. In traffic it continues up, my guess is that it will overheat if i were to push it in heavy traffic.

Here's the dilemma: if the pump wasn't working it should keep getting hotter, and it the rad was blocked it should do the same thing. Am I correct or am I missing something? maybe the rad partially blocked and cruising allowing for just enough cooling to keep it from overheating? Pump does not leak and there is no noise from it so my guess is it is working.

The rad is an orig chrysler rad, either the one from the factory or a factory replacement.

Any ideas/input?
 
Check condition of the lower hose, does it have a spring in it to keep it from collapsing?
I'm assuming Robert had the cooling system flushed, is that on the list of things he had done recently? If it's not that would be next on the list. If the lower hose has no spring and is very soft I'd replace it.
 
You can take this to the bank:
It's the radiator.
A recore solves the problem 50% of the time.
If not, a Champion 3 row will absolutely do it.

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If you have an inferred thermometer check the temp at the top and bottom of the radiator. If there's a big difference your radiator isn't flowing enough.
 
I should know this but remind us about the history of your motor. Has it ever been apart? If it has a lot of miles it could also have crud in the system. I agree with Stan's comments also. The 19" on the Polara and the 22" on the Monaco both cool well after the recore.
 
Apart from the radiator which is most likely I've seen other cars with neglected cooling systems where the waterpump rotors were that far shrunken in size by corrosion that the pump performance was minimal.
Provided sending unit and gauge working accurate.
 
Someone said the cooling system has been recently flushed? If it hasn't been run a lot since then you may have some air pockets in the cooling system. Is the radiator full of coolant? I would also check to see if the clutch fan is working.

Isn't it great that there's so many different opinions of what is causing your overheating problem?
 
Matt - lower hose does appear to be firm. coolant was flushed and it still looks good/cln

Stan - how can I take it to the bank if the recore only solves the problem half of the time? And is there a Champion 3 row that bolts in w/o any mods?

cm23 - you may have a point there, the gooseneck had corrosion on the edging where it seats by the stat and on the outside, i got it back on and not leaking but it looks really beat, makes me wonder what the inside of the engine looks like. I can also see some of the corrosion around the rad cap right inside the rim.

Fred - car has 129K on it, never been apart, it still has the orig pc of insulation on the back of the intake.

Dan - I do not have an IR thermometer

The big thing is that when it starts to circulate there isn't much like you normally see, it is usually very obvious that it is circulating, not so with this car.
 
Start simple I always say and if you need a recore then so be it.
 
If it hasn't been run a lot since then you may have some air pockets in the cooling system. Is the radiator full of coolant? I would also check to see if the clutch fan is working.Isn't it great that there's so many different opinions of what is causing your overheating problem?

Yes, rad is full, it's a 7 blade non-clutch fan.

Yes it is great, I may end up just replacing everything though, which won't be cheap.

Stan: just looked, Champion does not have a 22" rad for my car.
 
maybe I ought to change the sending unit as well.......no idea on the gauge, my guess is that it is much more likely something under the hood.
 
Start with the simplest things first. Have you talked to the previous owner about it overheating and how much driving did he do. I would start with the radiator cap and then change the thermostat next.
 
go and buy a 30 dollar infared gun, you will pin point it immedialtey
 
Matt - lower hose does appear to be firm. coolant was flushed and it still looks good/cln

Stan - how can I take it to the bank if the recore only solves the problem half of the time? And is there a Champion 3 row that bolts in w/o any mods?

cm23 - you may have a point there, the gooseneck had corrosion on the edging where it seats by the stat and on the outside, i got it back on and not leaking but it looks really beat, makes me wonder what the inside of the engine looks like. I can also see some of the corrosion around the rad cap right inside the rim.

Fred - car has 129K on it, never been apart, it still has the orig pc of insulation on the back of the intake.

Dan - I do not have an IR thermometer

The big thing is that when it starts to circulate there isn't much like you normally see, it is usually very obvious that it is circulating, not so with this car.
It's Chris not Dan:yaayy:Harbor Freight Has IR thermometers real cheap. I think they are less than $10, even less than that on sale. They are very handy to have.
 
lol.......i'm sorry.........question is, are they the usual harbor freight junk?

wait a minute...the website says 24.99 or 36.99!
 
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I said radiator only because I go with the odds based on your symptoms BUT I wholeheatedly agree with the others that you start simple and wok your way up. I take that so much for granted I stupidly left it out.

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so water pump first.......stands to reason with it getting as hot as it does right away
 
That old of a radiator without being used often or being flushed for a long period of time leads me to believe the radiator is corroded inside and restricting your water flow. You know your hoses are good, the thermostat can be checked in a pot of boiling water, the pump isnt making any noise or leaking and the fan is spinning and straight, without a wobble. The cap or the core? I said it earlier, I'll say it again, re-core
 
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