Painted top

Blish

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My Newport used to have a vynil top. I removed the top due to some decay where it had peeled up. Afraid it was going to collect moisture. Finding that the vynil is going to cost $500+ after shipping and take months to get here (and also being 1 step away from having the car back on the road) i decided to paint the roof.

My question is what is the best way to remove all that old adhesive? Alot of it is stuck to the roof still. I tried sanding it and it won't come off. Used a 300 pad a 200 pad a 150 pad 100 pad 80 pad and finally a 50 pad on a Dewalt sander (kind of like a vibrator. Sounds bad but thats essentially what this is)

Any help is appreciated. I have a picture of the decal I put on the windshield which includes some of the roof. All of it is like this. Ill get more pics tomorrow.

-Paul

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71Polara383

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Acetone or similar solvent like that and a putty knife or razor knife thingy. Work in small areas, and keep that stuff away from paint you care about.
 

Blish

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Acetone or similar solvent like that and a putty knife or razor knife thingy. Work in small areas, and keep that stuff away from paint you care about.
That would be all of it except the primer, but I'm going to go over the entire roof with primer anyways so it doesn't much matter to me tbh.

Thanks for the tip ill keep painters tape and towels handy
 

Blish

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Its a bitch. I hate doing it. Only got 1 more to do it on.
I dont want to have to remove glue again haha. I want to get it done though I am afraid if I wait too long the roof will begin to rust up.

No one I know has even installed a vynil top. Seems kinda complicated to me plus the direction the car is going now would be better suited with a painted top.
 

cbarge

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We used a DA sander. Smoothed out the seams and then sprayed epoxy primer on the roof. The lighter side was sanded and the darker side has glue still on it...

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Blish

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We used a DA sander. Smoothed out the seams and then sprayed epoxy primer on the roof. The lighter side was sanded and the darker side has glue still on it...

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This is what u was thinking more of. I have the tools to do this with a drill or impact, just didn't know how effective this would be. Apparently very effective haha. Of this keeps from messing my roof up and my paint then I feel like this is the way to go.
 

69PHOENIX

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A Little Advice.
Spent a Lot of Years working with Solvents Such as Acetone, Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Etc.
Avoid the Fumes and Try Not to get Too Much on Your Skin.
Some Modern Adhesives use Cynanide in the Formulae.
But even without That they can do quite a Bit of Damage,
Proper Gloves are NOT an Option, You Really Need to use Them.
Be Very Careful.
However Having said that any really Quick Evaporating Solvent will Help by Drying out the Old Residue.
So it will "Powder Off" Instead of Balling Up in little Rubber like Balls.
Tough Job, Good Luck.
Tony.M
 

Robert Saigh

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My opinion....Skip the vinyl and clean up, do the rust repair (if not serious) and Paint it!
 

cbarge

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This is what u was thinking more of. I have the tools to do this with a drill or impact, just didn't know how effective this would be. Apparently very effective haha. Of this keeps from messing my roof up and my paint then I feel like this is the way to go.
When not going back to vinyl top, all the more reason to take time to smooth out the seams to be less obvious.
Our cars were crudely assembled and the original vinyl hid those imperfections!! Lol!
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Pete Kaczmarski

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Another option is to check with a seasoned upholster to see if they have some vinyl leftover or from a cancelled job that they would sell to you at a discount. Then ask them for a quote to do the job.
 

Blish

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Its kind of hard to reply to all of the messages at one time so im going to post the pictures and tackle all 3 replys here.

Robert that is the plan right now, I've been looking at painted roofs and I kind of like the look when they're completed.

Cbarge I see what you're doing there. I do have a little more Pillar work to do but my roof is actually welded on way further down the Pillar probably a solid 4 to 6 inches further down.

Pete I did think of this and I called probably fifty different places across my state and it would seem that literally not a soul does vynil anymore or even knows anyone who does vynil.
 

Blish

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Thats definitely an idea haha. Does it come in burgundy? :rofl:

Wonder if the flex seal option is more expensive? Probably but still worth a "shot" :D
 

Blish

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I wouldn’t do it. Undoing the flex seal would be another disaster.
I agree on that. But if you never plan to peel it or if you have a white / black top it may be a viable repair.

Pictures as promised:

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I already worked on sanding this side and the other side today

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tbm3fan

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When I did my Polara's vinyl roof I took it to my upholstery guy to do both the roof and new headliner. I presented him with a roof that had the requisite body work down along with two coats of epoxy primer and two coats of color. I left it up to him to get both materials matching the up the grain of the vinyl top and getting as close as possible to the headliner grain and color. Total cost of materials and installation was $1100.
 

bigmoparjeff

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You could do a textured top in Monstaliner.



Magnet Paints

They've been out of the tintable liner base for much of 2021, but they hope to have it back in stock early next year.

I check the facebook group every so often for updates on availability.

Monstaliner Masters


Jeff
 

imperialman

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When I did my Polara's vinyl roof I took it to my upholstery guy to do both the roof and new headliner. Total cost of materials and installation was $1100.
I priced out a new Vinyl top install for my 78 NYB and was quoted around 3k for a original type material installation.
I'm following this thread closely as a painted top is what I want to do.
 
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